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Author Topic: Mice!  (Read 6520 times)
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bigrip74
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« Reply #25 on: January 12, 2013, 12:44:47 PM »

@ Geoff:

     It does not ring a bell, but the designer sounds familiar. I too would like to see a print or photo.

Bob
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GeoffinIN
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« Reply #26 on: April 16, 2013, 09:54:03 PM »

http://www.control-line.net/ic/newsletter/archive/year-2007/newsletter_2007_01.pdf  Scroll to the bottom
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Paul-e
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« Reply #27 on: August 01, 2013, 10:47:54 AM »

The plan for the Dil-Bod 1/2A Team Racer is in the Plan Gallery here on HPA.
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GeoffinIN
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« Reply #28 on: August 14, 2013, 03:14:13 PM »

Thanks for telling me, Paul.  I obtained the three-view and instructions from a kit that the AMA has (I live nearby) and have one 2/3 done.  I ran into a roadblock when it came time for a fuel tank.  Can't find one that small anywhere, and my attempts to build one have not been successful.  I may just make a built-in one from epoxy coated wood.

Geoff
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GeoffinIN
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« Reply #29 on: June 25, 2014, 07:57:11 PM »

It looks as if nobody reads this forum but I'll ask here anyway:  Does anyone have a very tiny fuel tank for sale?  My Dil-Bod needs a tank!  About 5/8" X 5/8" X 1/2" (15mm X15mm X 13mm)

Anybody?  Pleeeeze!?!?

Geoff
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Paul-e
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« Reply #30 on: June 26, 2014, 12:51:09 AM »

Geoff - Brodak has a one-third ounce rectangular tank.  Below is the link but no dimensions listed, you might have to call them and ask.  I bought one at Smith Bros Hobbies from Tony Nacarratto for a Dale Kirn Torquette Tee-Dee Biplane event promoted by Larry Renger (Criminy could I ever drop any more legendary names in one sentence!) and the tank was just a jewel.  If I am able in the next few days I will search my tank-stash for a tiny "Perfect" brand tank.  It might not match your dimensions exactly though...

Paul

http://brodak.com/fuel/fuel-tank/rect-fuel-tank-1-3-oz.html
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mjmccarron
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« Reply #31 on: June 26, 2014, 01:27:24 AM »

The Brodak tank is 5/8 x 11/16 x 13/16. May be a bit big for your application but they might be able to help you.
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GeoffinIN
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« Reply #32 on: June 26, 2014, 03:20:05 AM »

Thanks, you two!  I'll holler at Brodak and see what they can do.
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billdennis747
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« Reply #33 on: June 26, 2014, 03:37:07 AM »

It looks as if nobody reads this forum but I'll ask here anyway:  Does anyone have a very tiny fuel tank for sale?  My Dil-Bod needs a tank!  About 5/8" X 5/8" X 1/2" (15mm X15mm X 13mm)

Geoff
I have no idea about this topic but I do know that the hinge part of an old cassette tape case can be cut up to make a tank with just those dimensions.
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greggles47
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« Reply #34 on: June 26, 2014, 07:48:25 PM »

Geoff,

Ever thought of making your own tanks? A tank that small can be made from a cut up coffee tin and soldered together.

Pipes can be any configuration you like, but I find uniflow gives the most consistent run from go to whoa.

Regards

Greg
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GeoffinIN
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« Reply #35 on: June 26, 2014, 09:21:30 PM »

Greg, I did try to make a tank from aluminum (or is it aluminium in Oz?) roof flashing, but couldn't get a good seal, despite purchasing very expensive alloy solder and flux.  If Brodak can't help I may try making my own again.
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mjmccarron
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« Reply #36 on: June 26, 2014, 09:27:45 PM »

GeoffinIN,
I think aluminum might be the most difficult material to try to fab a tank from. As mentioned earlier, a coffee tin or even a soup can would be much easier to solder with standard plumbers solder. Another choice might be brass sheet such as shim stock. I have made several tanks with K&S shim stock over the years.
Mike
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greggles47
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« Reply #37 on: June 27, 2014, 09:13:03 AM »

GeoffinIN,
I think aluminum might be the most difficult material to try to fab a tank from. As mentioned earlier, a coffee tin or even a soup can would be much easier to solder with standard plumbers solder. Another choice might be brass sheet such as shim stock. I have made several tanks with K&S shim stock over the years.
Mike

Mike & All,

I've never had it happen to me, but people (who should know these things) tell me that brass has a tendency to become brittle & crack over time. Have you any experience with that?

Greg
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« Reply #38 on: June 27, 2014, 10:14:49 AM »

Mike & All,

I've never had it happen to me, but people (who should know these things) tell me that brass has a tendency to become brittle & crack over time. Have you any experience with that?

Greg

Large expanses of thin brass can flex (vibrate), work harden, and break.  As the expanse gets larger the brass gets more flexible unless the thickness is increased.  Conversely as the expanse gets smaller, like a tank for a Dil-bod, the walls get stiffer.

Therefore avoid super-thin brass, and avoid large expanses OR make them curved to stiffen them up and reduce movement.

I would not use ANY brass tank with a Fox .35 well known for their vibration level.  A 6oz. brass tank attached to a .40 might be worrisome over time.  A tank less than 1" cubed, especially attached to a 1/2A should not have the described problem at all.

Paul

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wordguy
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« Reply #39 on: June 27, 2014, 12:59:53 PM »

Dear Old Dad used to make his tanks from the rectangular/cubic McCormick's spice cannisters.  Cut out the dispenser end, solder a flat plate, install tubes.

Ugly as heck but the price was right.
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billdennis747
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« Reply #40 on: June 27, 2014, 01:08:20 PM »

It looks as if nobody reads this forum but I'll ask here anyway:  Does anyone have a very tiny fuel tank for sale?  My Dil-Bod needs a tank!  About 5/8" X 5/8" X 1/2" (15mm X15mm X 13mm)

Geoff
I have no idea about this topic but I do know that the hinge part of an old cassette tape case can be cut up to make a tank with just those dimensions.
Don't mention it.
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RalphS
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« Reply #41 on: July 19, 2014, 10:05:45 AM »

It looks as if nobody reads this forum but I'll ask here anyway:  Does anyone have a very tiny fuel tank for sale?  My Dil-Bod needs a tank!  About 5/8" X 5/8" X 1/2" (15mm X15mm X 13mm)

Geoff
I have no idea about this topic but I do know that the hinge part of an old cassette tape case can be cut up to make a tank with just those dimensions.
Don't mention it.
Is that similar to the pearl type?
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Geoff. Potter
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« Reply #42 on: October 20, 2014, 01:46:43 AM »

I make all my small tanks out of balsa ,works a treat with alum. pipes. Last small one was 1/2x1/2 x5/8 took me 5 minutes . Geoff.
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Paul-e
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« Reply #43 on: October 20, 2014, 10:57:09 AM »

I make all my small tanks out of balsa ,works a treat with alum. pipes. Last small one was 1/2x1/2 x5/8 took me 5 minutes . Geoff.

Geoff - Balsa is not fuel-proof (look at me sounding like I know what I'm talking about!).  Could you please explain your process for building a tank out of balsa?  Or do a build-thread with pictures?  Either would be great for us newbies.  Thanks!  Paul
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perttime
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« Reply #44 on: October 20, 2014, 12:07:43 PM »

I recall seeing photos of a balsa tank. It was lined with something. Details escape me now...
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Geoff. Potter
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« Reply #45 on: October 21, 2014, 06:31:03 AM »

My god this amazes me ,all my TR models had balsa tanks for years like from 1965 . It's not new technology,and I don't know how to start a thread on here but will see if I can post pictures after this . For diesels I simply make the shape I want out of1/16 balsa for the bottom then cut 4 sides ,on ff models I only cut three sides , I use the model for the other. I then glue it all together to form a box without a lid with PINK ZAP . Then I put the aluminium tubes where I want them to be ( all shapes bent before fitting ) and then glue in place . I then put a dob of 5 min epoxy on the back of entry into tank and the end to give  it a bit of support in the tank . I check all joints to make sure their good and then I. PINK ZAP  the whole inside ,check all pipes as you go you don't want zap in them . When your happy with the job ,and use it sparingly , then make the top to sit on then Zap the inside of it and put on . If you have done a good job it will be sealed and ready to fit on or in the model , I check by sealing the pipes and putting fuel tube on one and sucking a vacuum .if it leaks find it and zap it. Make sure you don't suck the zap into your mouth ,it's not a good taste . For glo engines I do exactly the same  only I use 5 min epoxy to build and EPIGLASS HT 9000 to seal so it takes 24 hrs to go off . I have tanks in models that are 20 years old and still work great . Hope this helps you guys ,I'm not certain I can do pictures but will try f you find you need them . Sorry I don't just make square ,round ,teardrop ,coffin , what ever one can bend balsa to. Geoff
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Paul-e
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« Reply #46 on: October 21, 2014, 11:26:35 AM »

Pink Zap, or any other "super" glue, has not been around since 1965, Geoff.  What did you use on your Team Race diesel tanks before cyanoacrylate was commercially available?

Also the Epiglass HT 9000 24-hour epoxy you mentioned is $115-USD for one gallon.  Are you a yacht builder?  Or do you use large quantities for something else.

Paul
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Geoff. Potter
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« Reply #47 on: October 21, 2014, 06:19:36 PM »

Because I only use diesels for TR in those days (still do) I used Tarzans Grip and shrinking dope ,or Crispen ,couldn't afford a soldering iron and models and balsa as well.  HT 9000 I buy in 1/2 liter containers at a boat shop ,is a great epoxy and cheap .use it for making my own race props as well,and build with and fuselage shells ,propellor moulds,glass sheet (carbon or ordinary ) just about anything I can think of .  Geoff.
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