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Author Topic: my guillows laser cut DH2 BEAVER KIT #305  (Read 1500 times)
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p40qmilj
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« on: May 14, 2015, 03:47:47 PM »

 Grin Next on the board is a gullows laser cut beaver.  this is my first real laser cut model  by Guillows of this class.  i SHALL BE LOOKING FORWARD TO LASER CUT 500 SERIES MODELS.

fist of all i can confirm that the wood is in the 8 # class. nice and light and the cuts are excellent. laser cutting is a real joy.  i wish they ereed on the plus side a mil or two because you had to push the parts together to mate them and i did manage to break one former.
 i laid out the keel then the formers one side and then the side keel and cabin windows.  i will add stringers after the other side is done.  i expect to add my own hard 1/16 stringer to firm up the fuselage and the rest can be lighter wood (provided).  the plastic nose will be replaced with a balsa/ sheet frame. the flying tail is larger than the scale one, parts are supplied for both versions

jim
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my guillows laser cut DH2 BEAVER KIT #305
my guillows laser cut DH2 BEAVER KIT #305
my guillows laser cut DH2 BEAVER KIT #305
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DavidJP
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« Reply #1 on: May 14, 2015, 04:20:53 PM »

Nice - and good to see kits are improving all the time now!
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p40qmilj
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« Reply #2 on: May 17, 2015, 09:47:31 AM »

 Grin  once i got all formers assembled and the side keel installed, i then installed the four corners using guillows iron wood from another kit.  the four corners are the two top and bottom longerons which establish the boundaries of the fuselage.  i then thought " Jeez B'y " WHAT ABOUT THE LANDING GEAR?  i don't normally do this till the end but since the gear is fixed and the LG former will be blocked in by stringers I read the directions and sure enough, it was the right thing to do.  pics to follow.

jim Grin
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« Reply #3 on: May 18, 2015, 09:31:43 AM »

 Grin  got the fuselage built sans cowling will have to decide if i want it or will repace it with wood which is more my style, may use plastic cowl as a jig hee hee.

rudder also built. more pic for u Grin

jim  Grin
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Mugs914
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« Reply #4 on: May 19, 2015, 01:19:46 PM »

Looking good Jim. I just started the same kit, though I'm not quite as far along as you are. I might share some of my progress here as well, if that would be okay with you.

So far I've got the fuse framed up and I'm about to install the gear and finish the bottom stringers. I think I am going to use the plastic cowl from the kit but will build up a proper looking engine that will be the actual nose block. I thought about building up the nose too, but wimped out and decided to go plastic! Undecided

There is a LOT of info and scale data available on the internet and a huge variety of neat little fiddly details that can be added. I'm even considering building mine as a float plane, though I can't imagine how many tons that would add to the model, not to mention the drag penalty. Besides, in drought-stricken Southern California I would be hard pressed to find a puddle big enough to try to ROW... Grin

Keep up the good work!

Mike
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« Reply #5 on: May 19, 2015, 07:00:20 PM »

 Grin  Mike Please do join me.  I too used the plastic nose but did reinforce it with balsa.  photo to come on how i did that.  This sucker is coming together really easy.  Only caution is that the stinger notches are a micro undersized so the stringers need either sanding or gentle persuasion.

JIM
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Mugs914
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« Reply #6 on: May 20, 2015, 07:40:13 PM »

One of the mods I'm considering for the Beaver is to extend the nose a wee bit. This is an actual modification that is frequently made to Beavers to move the CG forward and allow more cargo to be carried in the aft cabin. The mod moves the engine and cowl forward seven inches (More in some cases. I've seen up to nine inches.). It is actually pretty hard to see the difference without a direct comparison (see the pics below). I figured that the model is going to need quite a bit of weight up front and a bit longer nose moment would not be a bad thing.

The cowl remains the same so the plastic part can still be used. A scale seven inch extension mod would just involve adding .3" (7.35 mm) to the front of the fuse ahead of the F1 bulkhead.

Here are a couple of pics from one of the companies that make the full-scale conversion kit.

Mike
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« Last Edit: May 20, 2015, 07:58:03 PM by Mugs914 » Logged
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« Reply #7 on: May 20, 2015, 07:45:47 PM »

 Grin more pics  weight of air-frame is 35 gm sans covering and motor.  i'm going to try a loop of 3/16 first.  the wings are mounted by means of dowling.  the doweling is secured to the fuselage no problem but there needs to be two wing ribs with holes to secure the wings.  this screws up the provision for diherdal though so i'll mate the dowels to the second rib and clip the wing to the fuselage as shown.  the inner part of the wing can be covered after.

jim Grin
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« Reply #8 on: May 20, 2015, 08:01:14 PM »

Wow, you're working fast. Is that foam on the wing tip? I'm planning to use foam on the tips and the extreme rear of the fuse.
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p40qmilj
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« Reply #9 on: May 21, 2015, 05:34:08 AM »

 Grin you betcha its foam
jim Grin
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« Reply #10 on: May 21, 2015, 06:55:20 AM »

I think that nose extension is a smart move and totally justified if you model a full size with the same mod! Good idea.

I am pleased to see they are using decent wood these days.
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« Reply #11 on: May 21, 2015, 05:36:20 PM »

Yeah W.I.P., about half way through my previous post on the subject I decided it would be a good idea go ahead with the nose mod.

Here's a pic of another Beaver with the long nose. Looks pretty cool to me!

And yes, the wood in my kit is quite nice as well.

Mike
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« Reply #12 on: May 22, 2015, 05:10:59 AM »

It is rare that I think a non-factory modification improves the looks of the dH or dHC design, but that longer nose really does improve the looks of the Beaver, as well as being a practical benefit.
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« Reply #13 on: May 23, 2015, 02:39:50 AM »

I managed to get the nose extension done tonight. Since I decided to make the mod after the fuse was framed up, I made a second F1 bulkhead and added balsa spacers to add the proper length.

The pics show what was done better than my rambling on, but I will point out a couple of details that may be of interest:

The third pic shows a small piece that was added to the side keels to correct the taper from the "firewall" (base of windscreen) to the new F1 position.

The last pic shows (though not to great advantage, I must admit) how some of the stringers "bypass" the original F1. Some of the stringers fit into their notches on both the original F1 and the extended F1, Others go straight from the firewall to the new F1 without making contact with the original.

Of course if one were to plan ahead a bit you could just add .3" to the keel frames when you lay out the fuse and avoid all of the fiddling about with two F1 bulkheads in the first place!

Mike
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« Last Edit: May 23, 2015, 02:54:22 AM by Mugs914 » Logged
p40qmilj
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« Reply #14 on: May 23, 2015, 06:54:10 AM »

 ;Dnice work Mike .did you frame the cowling yet ? If I need to I plan to shove a piece of foam between F1 and the cowl to get the extension.

Jim Grin
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« Reply #15 on: May 23, 2015, 09:25:03 PM »

That is the nicest Guillows kit I have ever seen. Must have been something changed at the company. Very nice job.
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« Reply #16 on: May 27, 2015, 11:17:11 AM »

 Grin  well i'm done, son.  this plane required a wee bit o weight in the nose to fly but she flies sweet.  weight is 51 grams all up and with a 72 sq in wing area the loading is .67 gms inch sq.  a tad high but no big deal  she flies on a loop of 3/16 rubber and in terms of quality. THAT'S MORE LIKE IT GUILLOWS!

i could build this as a box fuselage and delete some formers/ribs to produce a 35 grm approx plane.  which is what would yield 1/2 grm sq inch load which is perfect for flying.

i added dihedral to the wing you can see how i stabilized the angle by inserting the strut.  i will mark plane in RCAF Coulors circa 1950.

jim
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« Reply #17 on: May 27, 2015, 03:13:49 PM »

Looks terrific, and sounds like an ideal outdoor kit scale model, bearing in mind the need for a bit of weight and strength on a windy day. I am going to build one of those.
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« Reply #18 on: December 30, 2016, 08:52:58 PM »

I just received this kit as a gift from a grandson. It is on my to build list for the Modern Civilian event at the WESTFAC contest coming up in October 2017.
This event goes on the first day of the contest at 1030 am..

Gonna have some fun before the contest and then during the contest.
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« Reply #19 on: January 05, 2017, 03:41:28 PM »

It does fly quite well even with the short nose.

Here are a video and a couple of pictures of an early one.  It's actually a few grams heavier than the current production kits.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iRn_6eW1en8
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