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Author Topic: Dan's timers in power models  (Read 1685 times)
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PeeTee
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« Reply #25 on: May 30, 2015, 02:17:30 PM »

The plastic enclosures are OK  Grin  Grin
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pbrown
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« Reply #26 on: May 30, 2015, 04:18:44 PM »

PT, yeah OK I was getting a bit carried away.
Robin, OH now your putting me on the spot, it's much easier to slag things off without giving any helpful thoughts.
My suggestion would be try to find something in Maplin that didn't originate from China, its easier getting straight maxes.
Pete
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PeeTee
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« Reply #27 on: May 30, 2015, 05:06:00 PM »

Pete

I wasn't disagreeing with you, the comment was tongue in cheek! One of the problems with getting decent quality components is that the on-line stockists such as RS, Farnell, Rapid etc, invariably have either minimum order quantities or minimum order charges which can make the one or two items you want to buy pretty expensive. I've not needed to buy anything for the past 3-4 years so don't know what the actual numbers are like now, perhaps Roy knows? Nevertheless the quality is normally good from any of the major stockists.

The one thing I did like from Maplins was their temperature module - now out of production unfortunately. If anyone out there has a spare they don't need, I'll happily buy it.

Now back to Dan's timers Roll Eyes

Peter
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royv
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« Reply #28 on: May 31, 2015, 05:50:23 AM »

Small higher quality PBs seem hard to find from RS et al.   I use these from Maplins:

http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/125v-1a-push-to-make-switch-red-fh59p

I know saying so is asking for trouble but I haven't had a failure yet on up to 2.5 models (but not geared F1Cs) over hundreds of launches.   The failure of mine that JT refers to was an on-off switch not pushbutton.

Hall switches are ideal but you have to build them yourself or possibly buy from FF Electronics.  They require a power supply lead for the sensor in addition to the usual two wires but that should be straightforward to arrange.

Contact bounce causing premature timer start could be a probem.    JT locks the button (microswitch) down before starting so avoiding the issue altogether.  On my timers I press the button after motor start but the software does not arm the timer until the button has been held down for a set period of time, somewhere between half and one second.  The LED then starts to flash fast showing that the timer will start as soon as the button is released.  The dwell before arming neutralises contact bounce.  My hold on the model is through the button so keeping it depressed until release isn't a problem.
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PeeTee
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« Reply #29 on: May 31, 2015, 06:03:36 AM »

I use these smaller ones on my electric models (as have a number of other 'electricians') with no problems thus far, although I accept that the environmental regime with a noisy power model will be more onerous http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/125v-05a-sub-miniature-push-to-make-switch-black-jm01b

I have also used small tactile switches similar to these, and the positive 'click' to make is good, although I acknowledge that with vibration it may be difficult to discern http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/12f-tactile-switch-kr92a  Mine were re-cycled from a redundant bit of kit and came ready mounted on a PCB which I trimmed to size and was good for gluing to a faceplate

Peter
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RobinB
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« Reply #30 on: May 31, 2015, 06:57:06 AM »

The switch fitted by Dan is CS brand RT3-521 rated 1A 125/250VAC. It looks a bit Chinese, Pete.
The ones mentioned by Roy and PeeTee seem slightly more substantial, if larger.

Thanks to all for taking the time to provide info on what you use. I'm a newbie when it comes to switches,
servos, etc., and even when you know the kind of thing you need there's a baffling array of choices.
Search the RS site for a lever-action microswitch and you get 233 to choose from!

Since the picture in the opening post was taken I've changed the battery connector to JST BEC.
This was to match the switch lead properly. It's now obvious what fits what, and can only fit one way round.
The batteries (240 mAh from Overlander) had a connector which I think was meant for a specific make of heli.
If I cut the side flanges off they would fit - but either way!

Robin
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Starduster
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« Reply #31 on: September 29, 2015, 10:14:18 AM »

I really like my Dans timers, except that I find the settings to be confusing esp. when I'm trying to make adjustments at the field.

I created a spreadsheet that has really helped me to keep everything straight in my mind:
The second one is my log for the Pimenoff. This really helps me to remember the settings.


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