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Author Topic: McCoy .35 Redhead stunt  (Read 1889 times)
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Pit
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« on: December 16, 2014, 07:24:14 PM »

Late model, offset (off center) plug, six bolt head.  How was/is it against the Fox .35 Stunt?  I have an option (pending funds Roll Eyes) to get a never-run one.

The McCoy's that I had in the 60's ran OK, but my Fox motors were MUCH better (tho the Mc's were prettier).

I'm halfway thinking about a late re-entry (as long as I can still stand Roll Eyes) into roundy-round with a full-fuselage model.

Would it be wise to snap it up or just save the cents for a modern LA or Brodak offering?
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« Reply #1 on: December 16, 2014, 09:09:15 PM »

Might want to pose the question to these folks

 http://www.clstunt.com/htdocs/dc/dcboard.php

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Olbill
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« Reply #2 on: December 16, 2014, 10:04:47 PM »

My only recollection of a McCoy 35 is when they first came out. The price was about $5 when a Fox was $15. I think that said a lot about the quality. Maybe something changed later.
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« Reply #3 on: December 17, 2014, 07:46:11 AM »

Thanks for the link, carpetbagger, I seem to always forget about Stuka Stuntworks.

The McCoy's were always a "lottery".  My very first C-Liner arrived with a Fox .35 (B-day present from Papa).  First flight (no coach/no prior big c/l experience) resulted in the proverbial nose plant, effectively reducing the (expensive) Fox to a paperweight.  Dad wasn't planning on going to the States within the next few months (we were living in Monterrey then), and made it plain that a new motor would NOT be on the shopping list.  The LHS came to the rescue with a shipment of great looking red heads (motors Roll Eyes) that were cheaper - including the import surcharges/freight - so much so that Dad bought me two to "learn to fly in circles" with.

Those McCoys - well, one of them (the other never worked) - flew my re-built Sterling CORSAIR quite well for two years before the bearers let go in-flight.

I'll see if I can pick it up cheap.
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Greg Langelius
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« Reply #4 on: December 17, 2014, 10:12:37 AM »

I still have one from back then, waiting in the wings (pun intended) for my resurgence back into the circle of doom.

I wonder if the above mentioned bearing failure  might suggest upping the oil content used in these classic motors.

Greg
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« Reply #5 on: December 17, 2014, 02:30:40 PM »

Both the Fox and the Red Head will do much better on 25% all castor or 20% castor and 5% synthetic.  The red head was a good motor,although the quality was variable,  but one lean run and you were done.  I believe it was the powdered metal piston that was their weak point.  I got a Fox 35 off ebay that had a VERY egg shaped con rod hole.  I suspect it was fed cool power or some such low all synthetic oil fuel.
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« Reply #6 on: December 17, 2014, 04:16:05 PM »

Several of us old FF'ers have lately been flying a lot of ukies. When we started, we dug out the old McCoys and Foxes. My McCoy was was a fuss to run so I converted an RC OS FP25. What a difference! Easy to start (one flip!), good power, and they seem to last forever(at least until Tom wing overed his into the cement!). They also come with a muffler. Since then, we have all switched to OS FP or LA. And even the Chinese knock-offs seem good. ASP, Magnum, etc. We're buying clean used ones and trying to stay under $35, lot's of them out there.

Venturis and needle valve assemblies are easy to find or you can just wire the throttle in place. A good McCoy probably has more value as a nos gas or SAM FoxaCoy motor.

Norm
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« Reply #7 on: December 17, 2014, 05:37:26 PM »

I had a McCoy 35 red head that started me going with my Ringmaster. It flew several others like my Magician, Flight Streak, Super Swoope, Guillows Rat racer, Buster,and the last one it pulled around was the Skylark. I had to do the Skylark since it was featured in the McCoy engine ad's after Ed Mackey did so well flying his at the Nats. My dad sold my collection of model airplanes , engines, and other assorted goodies to friends after I went into the United States Air Force in 1967. I had a lot of fun with my McCoy 35 and I did have a Fox 049 that was the best Fox I had. Boy it was fun on my Little Satin half -a COMBAT.
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ghostler
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« Reply #8 on: February 11, 2015, 12:24:09 PM »

I've got several Testor McCoy Red Heads, run a .35 on my Sterling S-1 Ringmaster. I've followed the advice of other CL fliers, which more or less is spot on. I run on 25% oil by adding Castor to 18% oil RC fuel, which gives about 10% Castor content. Recently I found that an Evolution .46 remote NVA fits the McCoy .35 perfectly. Engine runs in a nice 4-cycle barely breaking into 2 with needle adjusted 1.75 turns open.

Also I've found that I can use Permatex Ultra Gray RTV to seal as head and other gaskets. It is able to seal squeezed to a thin coat. I've been told the engine has reasonable life expectancy if run rich with lean runs avoided and with adequate higher oil content. It handles a 10x5 or 10x6 prop nicely. Reason for ruin is the soft iron piston, which is easily worn if run too lean.

There is much love / hate controversy about the engine and considerable FUD (fear, uncertainty, doubt) on the Internet. If one has one in good condition, there is no reason why it cannot be used satisfactorily, if one doesn't abuse them, use the right fuel and prop correctly.

I've heard talk that they are no longer competitive in stunt and to go with a modern Schneurle, yada, yada, yada. Yet someone won 1st place stunt with a McCoy .35 Red Head last year. Thus I gathered it was the skill of the pilot and not necessarily the engine, provided one had it set up properly and it runs consistently and reliably.
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George Hostler
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« Reply #9 on: February 14, 2015, 12:29:24 AM »

Here's the same McCoy .35 Red Head with Evo .46 RNVA mounted to my 1950 Stirling Kit S-1 Ringmaster. I'm leaving the head unpainted for now as it will run cooler without paint. Actually it doesn't look that bad in natural aluminium.
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George Hostler
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« Reply #10 on: February 14, 2015, 01:52:41 AM »

Although the McCoy is a fun motor and I personally have nothing against them, get an OS La .25.  I say this because they are VERY user friendly, inexpensive and with proper use will last longer than the plane they are mounted in!
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« Reply #11 on: February 14, 2015, 08:03:42 AM »

Although the McCoy is a fun motor and I personally have nothing against them, get an OS La .25. I say this because they are VERY user friendly, inexpensive and with proper use will last longer than the plane they are mounted in!

True, but the McCoy's aren't bad engines and will also last reasonably long if properly fed and cared for. They do a perfect 4-2-4 break, are reasonably light weight, and you can't beat the vintage sound they produce. There were periods of quality control issues during their manufacturing. Many got into trouble running them lean on inadequate level oils, high nitro fuels and improperly propped, or not properly breaking them in. They have a soft iron piston that is easily ruined if run in a manner with increased heat and friction.

Running them on fuel with absolutely no less than 6% Castor oil (preferably 10%) and 25% total oil and low nitro in a rich 4 cycle setting breaking to 2 in stunts is the key to their longevity.

If one is not willing to live within their limitations, then by all means power their aircraft with something else.
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George Hostler
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« Reply #12 on: March 28, 2015, 10:30:43 PM »

The McCoy was intended to run on 20 to 25% straight castor fuel. There was no such thing as synthetic oil when they were made. If you start with a tight one, you can add 5% synthetic oil to keep it clean.
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ghostler
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« Reply #13 on: April 05, 2015, 11:18:03 PM »

Who says you can't modernize a 60 year old piece of machinery? Cheesy

I found that an Evolution .40/.46 remote needle valve assembly (RNVA) fits perfectly the tank back screws on my Testors McCoy .35 Red Head engine. Attached are a combination of photos between the two .35 RH's that I modified both with this remote needle.

It cost me $13 shipping included each: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006O5II4/

They are a high quality needle system with a fine thread for adjustment. The first one with a Masters 10x6 prop consistently ran 4-cycle barely breaking into 2 at 1.75 turns of the needle. The second one with an APC 9x6 prop consistently did the same at 1.5 turns of the needle. For each I used the stock McCoy spray bar with the needle location capped by a short 2-56 screw and brass washer.

My test setup uses a 1 oz. tank. First one I test ran 4 times, second I ran 8 times. Needle was consistent, and one tweaked, I could leave it in its set position. Smiley

I also found that Shellie Romo (AKA verysassyblond (E-Bay) has quality gasket sets and nylon crank throw spacer to support these Red Heads. Wink

By the way, I'm running these engines on 15% nitro fuel with Castor added to give 25% oil content of which 10% is Castor. The engines have good compression and there's no Castor seal to erode, like on a very worn engine. Wink
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George Hostler
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« Reply #14 on: April 18, 2015, 08:03:26 PM »

I ran a McCoy 35 for years on my Flite Steak amd still have it.  Always ran great.  The last time I ran it was in the 80s before synthetic fuels.  Max Nitro was 5% or less. Its has lots of flights on it.  I always ran it for the first time of the season slobbering rich, then leaned it out on subsequent flights to go full on with the model held vertical and rich when held level.  Still ran great the last time I used it.  Just have to run a vintage fuel these days I guess and dont over lean it.
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ghostler
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« Reply #15 on: April 18, 2015, 09:32:00 PM »

There was someone who did some extensive experimenting on steel sleeve with steel/iron piston and concluded that the minimum Castor to ensure vital protection was 6%. Overall CL community recommends 25% to 29% oil content. There is much debate over Castor content, some recommending 100%, minimum Castor content 10%, some recommending having 6% synth to keep down excessive varnish build-up, and etc.

I live at 4,300 feet elevation, so a little higher nitro content doesn't hurt. I concur with you, the general consensus is the engines will last if one does not run it lean and have sufficient oil content with adequate portion as Castor.

I went ahead and modified my other .35 RH with the Evolution .40/.46 remote NVA. Put 8 1-oz. tankfuls using an APC 9x6 prop. It settled down at 1.5 turns open in a 4-cycle barely breaking into 2. Then last 4 1-oz. tankfuls used a Masters 10x5 prop. That slowed the RPM down some, needle settled at 1.75 turns open just like the other I ran with a 10x6 Masters prop. The Evo RNVA is fine threaded, easy to adjust and set. I've put away this 2nd engine as a back up to the first for now.
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Re: McCoy .35 Redhead stunt
Re: McCoy .35 Redhead stunt
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George Hostler
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« Reply #16 on: June 10, 2015, 03:26:59 PM »

Today I was only able to get in 1 flight early morning with the Ringmaster S-1, before winds picked up at the MADS R/C Field. I left setting where I bench ran it, 4 cycle barely breaking into 2. The Evo 40/46 remote NVA worked like a charm and needle held its setting, broke into 2 in onset of a stunt and back to 4 returning to level flight. Last minute of flight, it leaned out slightly breaking into 2 back to 4 when heading into and away from the wind, so I'll need to tweak the needle slightly richer.

I've got a winner. (Sorry, no flight photos, was alone.)

I'll need to repair the wing saddle area. wing joint is cracked. Coverite Balsarite doesn't have sufficient shear strength. Top of Micafilm is glued to wing joing, but bottom at planking is where separation occurred. I'll figure a way to permanently repair.  Grin
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George Hostler
Clovis, NM, US
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