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Author Topic: ENGINE CLEAN UP  (Read 1631 times)
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bigrip74
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« on: July 19, 2015, 10:35:56 PM »

I have several old engines that I wish to bring back to flying condition. I want to remove the gum and varnish, what is used now to accomplish this? I used acetone in the past.

Thanks in advance

Bob
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mjmccarron
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« Reply #1 on: July 20, 2015, 12:42:57 PM »

I have used boiling water with Cascade dishwasher detergent with great success in the past. It does, however require that you completely disassemble the engine.

Mike
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NormF
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« Reply #2 on: July 20, 2015, 01:51:08 PM »

Caution with the Cascade and other dishwasher detergents. Some turn the aluminum black. If you're going to do several engines, a crock pot with antifreeze is excellent. The crockpot can no longer be used for cooking food!

Norm
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bigrip74
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« Reply #3 on: July 21, 2015, 09:16:42 AM »

Mike, and Norm thanks for the help. I have disassembled the engines and have them soaking in alcohol until I get the time to follow your adivce.

Again Thanks

Bob
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PB_guy
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« Reply #4 on: July 21, 2015, 12:00:27 PM »

As I understand it, alcohol has some water in it, so it will let iron/steel parts rust.
Huh
ian
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bigrip74
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« Reply #5 on: July 21, 2015, 02:26:44 PM »

As I understand it, alcohol has some water in it, so it will let iron/steel parts rust.
Huh
ian

Ian, I also thought this. I looked up some old Cox manuals which state using alcohol?

Bob
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FLYACE1946
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« Reply #6 on: July 21, 2015, 04:40:48 PM »

Is Gunk still being sold in the U.S. automotive stores like Pep Boys, Auto Shack(now Auto Zone) ? I  used it a long time ago to clean car engine parts when I was rebuilding .
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skycafe
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« Reply #7 on: July 21, 2015, 05:51:56 PM »

Is Gunk still being sold in the U.S.

It is, they have several different formulas too, for cars with more plastic parts in the engine compartment.
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bigrip74
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« Reply #8 on: July 22, 2015, 09:17:49 AM »

Wow! I forgot all about GUNK, and I kept that company in business back in the 70's and 80's.

Bob
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ghostler
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« Reply #9 on: July 23, 2015, 12:35:48 PM »

An old coffee percolator with the basket removed and anti-freeze will work as a good substitute for a crockpot. Once boiling stops it switches over to simmer, plus it uses less anti-freeze. I cleaned up these with a combination of methods. The anti-freeze is good at removing the dried Castor spooge. Once cleaned, one can touch up with Mother's Mag and Aluminum polish. I find light filing of burs and crash damage with a file followed by Mother's helps. Mother's will sometimes clean up aluminum finish better than OEM, so if a collector item go easy on it.
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George Hostler
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bigrip74
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« Reply #10 on: July 23, 2015, 08:27:37 PM »

I want to thank everyone who has commented on how to clean up engine varnish.

Again

Thanks

Bob
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bigrip74
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« Reply #11 on: August 03, 2015, 11:39:28 AM »

George, just picked up a really cheap coffee maker and some anti-freeze to try your method. Do you have any other tips on this method before I begin?

Bob
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ghostler
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« Reply #12 on: August 03, 2015, 02:03:56 PM »

Bob, remove the basket from the percolator, it is not needed. I'm using a 50-50 already diluted antifreeze solution of traditional toxic ethylene-glycol. There is much debate on what works best. Some say the newer stuff works, I don't know. I guess it is a case of YMMV (your mileage may vary). Make sure the engine parts are fully submerged.

I've found that once I simmer an engine in antifreeze, sometimes in my percolator for 2 days for really stubborn baked Castor, solution gets dirty enough that it shouldn't be reused. Otherwise, it coats the 2nd engine with Castor spooge. Good luck, and please let us know how it's working out for you.
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George Hostler
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bigrip74
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« Reply #13 on: August 10, 2015, 09:12:52 AM »

George, I left the coffee maker on all day yesterday and could see minute size particules lift off the engine. I guess another full day with the coffee maker on and I will pull the crank case out to see how she looks. You mentioned "Mothers". Is that a rubbing compound?


Bob
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ghostler
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« Reply #14 on: August 10, 2015, 05:43:03 PM »

Mother's is an aluminum polishing compound.
http://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05101-Mag-Aluminum-Polish/dp/B0009H519Y/
http://www.mothers.com/02_products/product/images/05100-05101.jpg
ENGINE CLEAN UP
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George Hostler
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NormF
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« Reply #15 on: August 10, 2015, 07:40:48 PM »

Bob, remove the basket from the percolator, it is not needed. I'm using a 50-50 already diluted antifreeze solution of traditional toxic ethylene-glycol. There is much debate on what works best. Some say the newer stuff works, I don't know. I guess it is a case of YMMV (your mileage may vary). Make sure the engine parts are fully --- snip

Take out the stem but use the basket to hold the parts. Then you dont have to fish around for the little bits. I found a cheap dollar store stainless colander that fits in my crock pot.

Norm
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ghostler
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« Reply #16 on: August 11, 2015, 10:15:55 AM »

That might work with a metal basket. Coffee pot I am using has a plastic one, so wouldn't work for me. To retrieve parts from the solution, I use one of those steel cable grabbers that has the retracting "fingers" on it, used by mechanics to get a part that has fallen into an inaccessible place in an engine compartment.

I put enough solution to just cover the parts. Since the coffee pot doesn't use as much solution as a crockpot, I find it easier to fish out the smaller parts.
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George Hostler
Clovis, NM, US
bigrip74
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« Reply #17 on: August 12, 2015, 02:40:37 PM »

I am ready to take the parts out and let them drain. What do you rinse with? Is water OK?

Bob
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ghostler
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« Reply #18 on: August 12, 2015, 04:09:49 PM »

A Usenet newsgroup, rec.motorcycles operated by the Denizens of Doom, use to have 2 rules for the forum:

  • There are no rules.
  • Go ride.

I can only tell you what works for me. Others have their own methods, etc.

Yes, rinse the parts of antifreeze with plain tap water. To remove any softened residue that might remain and oily spooge that dissolved in the water and may have coated the parts, I use a dish washing soap solution in water and scrub with an old toothbrush. Any that remains, I dry the parts then might soak in acetone, further scrub with a toothbrush to knock off residues.

You'll have to find a method that works for you, good luck and let us know how far you've gotten.
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George Hostler
Clovis, NM, US
bigrip74
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« Reply #19 on: August 12, 2015, 07:11:08 PM »

George, thanks for the help it has been great and I will post photos when the engine is cleaned up and show what this old dirt ball will look like.

Now to get some wood and build an old Ringmaster to test the reborn engine out.

Again thanks

Bob
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ghostler
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« Reply #20 on: August 12, 2015, 08:22:21 PM »

No problem Bob, glad to help. I'd like to see your Ringmaster build. I got 3, the old S-1 with McCoy .35 Red Head, a Jr. with an OS .15FP-S, and a 20" span variant patterned after the fat tubby Grandville Gee Bee I call the 1/2-A Gee Bee Ringmaster. It is powered with an A.C. Gilbert .07 Thunderhead.

Ringmaster Brotherhood is forum http://brotherhoodofthering.info/

You may want to join, they'd love to have you join and show your Ringmaster, plus any CL topics you'd like to discuss or participate in.
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George Hostler
Clovis, NM, US
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