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Author Topic: Scratch Build, Divine Wind  (Read 1518 times)
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adventrider
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« on: July 29, 2015, 07:18:53 PM »

I put together a short kit of this plane from an under size set of drawings re-enlarged to full size and a set of templates pulled from my cad cam software. I remember the quality of pilot kits from back in the 80's and was going to build a qb1600. I found the D.W. instead and it is a more refined design.
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adventrider
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« Reply #1 on: July 29, 2015, 07:46:05 PM »

I bagged all the parts into a "short kit" and formed my canopy. I figured if I couldn't get a reasonable canopy I wouldn't start the project. Bunt and vacuum forming worked out ok, The material I have is a clear PVC that fogs and bubbles. Not the best of stuff but it is something I am getting better with. The first step was to glue the poplar "lite" ply doublers to the 1/8" balsa sides. I had both parts stacked and sanded to shape together so at least they are symmetrical. As with all the parts as I build it is better both left and right are the same rather than "right". Doublers line up along canopy bottom and front edge that abuts the nose block. Make sure to make a right and left side and clamp to keep sides flat.
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adventrider
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« Reply #2 on: July 29, 2015, 07:50:28 PM »

Picture shows the formers, all out of light ply. Original design for the nose cone had a ply spine in the center and balsa cheeks added each side. I just cut a solid block.  Second photo shows the custom corner stock that runs down the four corners of the fuse. This is what will actually hold the fuse together once rounded out and the four corners that overlap will be sanded away. Scary and I think we will have to glass the fuse for strength. I ripped the corner stock on a table saw from 3/8" x 3" x 36" stock.
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adventrider
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« Reply #3 on: July 29, 2015, 07:56:24 PM »

Triangle stock glued in and test fit all the formers. Cad system did it's duty. Everything fits ok.
Now a good time to plan and rout the control rods. I may have mine a bit high so I will have to keep the aileron torque rods narrow and low to wing to clear. I'm using mini servos here, original design shows full size servos that pop thru into canopy. Notch all formers and cut the exits in the sides prior to gluing up fuse.
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adventrider
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« Reply #4 on: July 29, 2015, 08:31:28 PM »

Photo 1; Control rods epoxied in place, I used golden rods. 1/4" balsa planking in place and sanded to match fuselage sides. I will round later once I have the tail done and the canopy ready so it can all match.
Photo 2; Canopy tray. Original kit used a plastic tray. I'm fine with a simple balsa tray. I will add a 1/16 ply doubler to the inside front and drill for the 1/8" dowel that projects into the nose block later. The canopy tray will receive additional stiffening when I add a 1/4" x 1/8" spruce spar sideways to maintain canopy alignment to the fuse just ahead of the servo bay. We'll come back to that later.
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adventrider
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« Reply #5 on: July 29, 2015, 08:36:57 PM »

Photo 1; Fin assembly glued up. Pretty straight forward except for the sanding and blending of the cheeks to the fuse. I have no real good photos of this blend so I will have to use my best judgement.
Photo 2; Showing bay where fin assembly is glued. This looks like a week spot to me so I will add a 1/4" balsa filler block to make a stronger shelf for the assembly. I would have liked to caught this early and run some 1/8" x 1/4" spruce stringers along the 1/8" balsa sides to aid the shelf in bearing the assembly stresses. As it looks now it could easily split on a hard landing or if the stab gets snagged on brush. Another reason to glass the fuse.
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adventrider
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« Reply #6 on: July 29, 2015, 08:41:41 PM »

I will be fabing the stab tonight once the heat and humidity drops. The cad image shows the layout concept. Again I can only guess as to how Pilot did this.
Photo 2; Stab parts all laid out for assembly.
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adventrider
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« Reply #7 on: July 30, 2015, 04:44:13 PM »

Photo #1; Mark and drill (#30) the fin assembly for stab pivot bearing tube. It is easier to ensure a right angle hole prior to assembly and sanding. I leave the tube slightly proud to prevent the stab from rubbing on the fin blocks.
Photo #2; Polish and yes, clean with acetone, the pivot bearing and epoxy in place.
Photo #3; Finished assembly, note lower stab profile marked on blocks. This is going to fun sanding to shape.
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adventrider
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« Reply #8 on: July 30, 2015, 05:02:27 PM »

Photo #1; Time to size and cut the stab wires and tubes.
Photo #2; The build for the stab is a bit awkward since there are no flat surfaces. I found simply pining the lower spar with the pins at an angle to clear the upper spar, positioning the stab ribs in position and capping with the upper spar then thin CA the whole assembly together worked out. Just have to watch that the ribs are not tottered at all different angles. Position the trailing edge stock, centered about the aft end of the ribs and in line with the root block with the rudder clearance angles. I cut leading edge stock that was tapered to reduce sanding but it was to narrow so I just used (2pc) 1/4" x 3/8" balsa stock for the L.E. Next was the rudder angled root blocks. Once dry, remove from building board.
Photo #3; Sand the roots flush and glue on the ply root doublers. Mark the position of the pivot bearing and center with hole in the ply root. Clamp and let dry.
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adventrider
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« Reply #9 on: July 30, 2015, 05:10:29 PM »

Photo 1; Add the block on the left side for the control horn, sand the tips of the stab flat and glue on the tips.
Photo 2; Drill out the stab for the brass tubes. Note how one end is crimped to prevent the wire from protruding thru.
The inner holes thru stab ribs 2 were over sized to the tube diameter to allow the stab to adjust as necessary to accurately align with the fin cheeks prior to epoxying the tubes into place. (later today)
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adventrider
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« Reply #10 on: July 31, 2015, 02:31:04 AM »

Photo 1; Mixed up some 30 min epoxy to give some working time. Cleaned the tubes again with acetone. Applied epoxy to tubes where they are inserted into the wood bits of the stab and assembled to the fin bearing tube dry and taped assembly where root of stab is parallel with the fin cheeks and let dry.
Photo 2; Shows how both sides of the stabilator are in the same plane and no misalignment is visible. Very important for efficient, low drag flying.
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adventrider
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« Reply #11 on: August 01, 2015, 12:45:48 AM »

Cheek blocks were next and have some shaping to conform to the fuselage. I started with an xacto knife and scored deep along the underside stab profile and 90° to it along the bottom edge to match the taper of the fuselage. I got a little too much at the front, hence the balsa filler. Next photo is the top side of the cheek blocks where they are supposed to blend with the fin. I used a dremal tool and drum sander to fillet out most of the stock.
Rest of the morning was used in sanding the fuselage closer to final shape and finishing the tail feathers.
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« Reply #12 on: August 01, 2015, 12:49:13 AM »

This series of photos shows the blending and final shape of the tail surfaces. Note the fin tappers slightly to the top as well as toward the aft edge of the rudder. I will move on to the wing tonight and finish the fuselage shape later. I still want the canopy and the wing turtle deck to aid in final shaping of the fuse.
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« Reply #13 on: August 01, 2015, 02:35:06 PM »

Photo 1; Basic wing layout in cad system which was used to drive all the rib templates as part of the download package in the plans gallery.
Photo 2; Ribs arrayed in intended locations.
Photo 3; Center wing section bits.
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« Reply #14 on: August 01, 2015, 02:38:54 PM »

Wing panels with ribs, l.e. and t.e. Parts and assembly according to plan, except I added gussets at the tip rib for strength and to help support tip rib during sanding for wing tip.
Photo 1; Left panel
Photo 2: Right panel
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« Reply #15 on: August 02, 2015, 03:40:22 PM »

Ready to join the wing panels together. Wings are joined with light ply doublers on each face of the spars. This leaves a big empty pocket that I thought would be better filled with 1/4" balsa vertical grain shear web. So before I glued the doublers in place I sized and glued in the balsa using Titebond. The doublers will get a slather of 30 min. epoxy on each mating face and then aligned and clamped. There is a slight wing dihedral for upright flight stability and will also keep the wings from looking anhedral when in flight and on the ground. I supported the second from the last rib up 1/2" on each side.
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adventrider
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« Reply #16 on: August 02, 2015, 03:55:28 PM »

I failed to mention that prior to joining the panels, the preshaped leading edge and sub-trailing edge were sanded to match the rib contours as the wing tapers from root to tip, ever so slightly on the sub-trailing edge and more noticeable on the L.E. since the wings are very fragile at this stage this has to be done delicately which is why it is highly recommended to use preshaped stock rather than square sticks as it reduces sanding and results in a straighter taper.
Photo 1; After wings are joined the center bits are all assembled. These represent the relatively few details left from the templates sheet that accompany the print download and I couldn't be happier with the fit of the details so far. I did have to add a piece of 1/4" x 1/2" stock at the tail of the fuselage to fill in overhang from the fin/fin cheeks assembly.
Photo 2 & 3; Next comes the shear webs. On the front side of the spars from wing joiner to tip, on the inside spar faces, 3 bays out from the wing joiner. I alternated the installation and gluing of the shear webs, one left, one right, rather than doing the entire left panel then the right. It may not matter but why take any chances at warping the wing now.

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« Reply #17 on: August 04, 2015, 12:55:17 PM »

With the shear webs glued in place and sanded flush with the wing spars time to start sheeting the wing. Give the wing one more once over with the longest sanding bar you own and make sure that there are no high spots and that the sheeting has no obstructions to laying flat against the spar, ribs, and L.E.
Photo 1; I started with the L.E. bottom sheet. I did have to go to the hobby shop for some 1/16" x 4" x 36" sheeting as I usually only have 3" stock at home and the leading edge to the spar was slightly over 3". Fortunately they had plenty of stock from the same mill run so it was all exactly the same thickness and hardness.
Photo 2; Finish with the top L.E. sheeting and then the aft sub-T.E. sheeting bottom then top. Now is a good time to accommodate your servo. The rails on the template sheet were about a 1/16" to wide on each side to fit the hitec servo I used. It would have been better to compare my servo with the side view on the plan and narrow the rails when I cut them to fit. As it stands, I had to dremmel out a little of the rail.
Photo 3; Finish sheeting the bottom center section. All the ribs are cap striped so I overhang the ribs with the center sheeting the same as a cap strip would overhang.
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adventrider
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« Reply #18 on: August 04, 2015, 12:59:11 PM »

Photo 1; The 4" wide stuff used to sheet the L.E. top and bottom leave a slab big enough for the center section.
Photo 2; Sheeting and cap strips completed.
Photo 3; Another view of completed sheeting.
I'll hold off final sanding until the ailerons, aileron torque rods and wing tips are fitted.
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« Reply #19 on: August 05, 2015, 02:20:36 AM »

Photo 1; Mark locations for torque rod and torque rod bushing. Pilot instructions say to channel out the T.E. stock but I prefer to do half in the T.E. and half in the sub-T.E. on the wing.
Photo 2; Torque rods installed and T.E. stock being epoxied in place. I coat the wires with petroleum jelly to prevent any oozed epoxy from sticking to the rods.
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« Reply #20 on: August 05, 2015, 02:24:02 AM »

After the torque rods are installed I marked hinge locations and slotted sub-trailing edge and aileron stock. Mark location for torque rod on aileron and drill out.
Size ailerons to fit wing and glue wing tip in place. Once set sand tips to match wing profile.
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« Reply #21 on: August 05, 2015, 02:29:42 AM »

Sand entire wing surfaces and level out all glue joints. Round L.E. to final shape. Round wing tip to final shape.
This completed the main wing assembly. Starting to look like a plane. What's left is the wing center section and mounting to fuse. Canopy requires completion. Fuselage final shaping and fiberglass. Then finishing. Almost in the home stretch!
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« Reply #22 on: August 09, 2015, 07:13:02 PM »

Wing turtle deck starts with (2) W-26, glue tapered stock to inside tops to make (1) left and (1) right and sand aft faces till they fit fuselage wing opening. I had to cut some clearance around the stringers to clear the wing servo. (photo 2). I had to fabricate another W-27 1/8th of an inch wider. Seems the template is a little narrow. I used W-28 and W-29 to space the turtle deck sides W-26. The front edges needed about 2° angle sanded faces to be flush with F-8 bulkhead. Same with the aft faces to be flush with  F-6. I also used the dowel hole for the wing mount to align W-28 to F-8. The sides should be just wide enough to match the fuselage sides and match the wing profile. I haven't glued anything yet just test fit only.


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« Reply #23 on: August 09, 2015, 07:18:50 PM »

Getting about time to finish the canopy if I want to use it to help shape the fuselage. Photo 1, I drilled for the 1/8" dowel, cut a 1/16 ply doubler for the canopy tray front and glued the assembly together. (photo 2) I opted to fab up a quick dash to somewhat follow the print. Nothing high tech. (photo 3) completed dash showing intended installation. I will glue in after covering as I intend the tray to be black and the dash to be grey. (photo 4) Last trial fit of canopy tray to fuselage.
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« Reply #24 on: August 09, 2015, 07:27:51 PM »

(Photo 1) Prep to mount the wing. I cut an adequate segment of 1/4" dowel and have tap and pilot drill ready. Also marked location for bolt hole in W-29 wing doubler then drilled out with the proper pilot drill.
(photo 2) The wing doubler is just held, not glued, to the turtle deck sides and epoxy has been applied to the doubler only. I will use the turtle deck to help position the doubler. The wing will need to be in position on the fuse and aligned correctly. I used the string method of ensuring the distance from wing tip to tail was the same distance on each side. Note in photo 3 the dowel pin is inserted into wing to hold alignment at front of wing. Let the doubler set-up.
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