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Author Topic: 1/16th Bristol Bulldog  (Read 4684 times)
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Prosper
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« Reply #25 on: July 02, 2016, 11:50:46 AM »

Hi Dan, don't know if this pitcher helps or hinders. . .if the elevator noses are shrouded it looks like not by much. I've got a description which reads ". . .the balanced portions of the elevators are shielded. . ." (my italics) - I take that to mean that they've got fixed tailplane area ahead of them rather than dangling in the wind, as with a Fokker DVII's aileron balances for example. Could be wrong though. Very ambitious build - I looked at the Bulldog and chickened out. . .good luck!

Stephen.
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danmellor
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« Reply #26 on: July 02, 2016, 12:08:19 PM »

Ta for that, Stephen! Ive made the 1/32 capping on the spar extend back by 1/32" so a radius can be sanded in to take the elevator LE. So far, it looks pretty good, compared to pics. Obviously the LE on the forward projecting aerodynamic balances can't be shrouded, as then they would be fixed at neutral! As a first "serious" scale build, I could probably have chosen better, but you only live once!

Cheers,

Dan.
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danmellor
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« Reply #27 on: July 03, 2016, 05:22:57 PM »

I've got the Causer/Aerographics Camel kit, and the instruction leaflet is a masterclass in detailing. I'll definitely be pinching a few of the techniques for the Bulldog. It'll at least get rib tapes, as such a huge expanse of wing needs something to bring it to life.

Cheers,

Dan.
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billdennis747
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« Reply #28 on: July 04, 2016, 03:00:59 AM »

I'll definitely be pinching a few of the techniques for the Bulldog. It'll at least get rib tapes, as such a huge expanse of wing needs something to bring it to life.
I would test that idea off the model first, Dan.
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danmellor
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« Reply #29 on: July 04, 2016, 08:40:06 AM »

Probably wise, Bill! It will be a while before I get to that stage anyway. I'll have probably given up and taken up alligator wrestling or Russian Roulette using six shells long before then...

Cheers,

Dan.
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danmellor
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« Reply #30 on: July 04, 2016, 06:52:51 PM »

Most of the tailplane and elevators are now sanded to shape. Just a few finishing touches needed. Luckily, the Bulldog had internal linkages for the elevators, so no horns and cables involved! I'm hoping the photo CD has a good few engine shots. I find it hard to visualise details like cylinders/exhausts etc. from drawings.

Cheers,

Dan.
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danmellor
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« Reply #31 on: July 05, 2016, 07:24:15 PM »

Progress so far. I've tried ordering some white Esaki from Flitehook three times, but have had no response. Anyone know anything?

Cheers,

Dan.
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ZK-AUD
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« Reply #32 on: July 05, 2016, 07:36:49 PM »

Nice piece of work Dan.  I recently covered my Bristol Scout with the Dilley tissue rather than Esaki. It's good stuff.  Very nice to work with. 
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DavidJP
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« Reply #33 on: July 06, 2016, 05:57:52 AM »

I know Pauline has been unwell Dan, so maybe John is a bit preoccupied at the moment - how much do you need - I have some Dilly tissue to spare and it seems as good as Esaki - may well be of course?  Otherwise try the Woodhouse emporium.  FF supplies.
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billdennis747
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« Reply #34 on: July 06, 2016, 06:09:41 AM »

Esaki has wet strength and can be pulled around a bit, if you like that sort of thing. Dilly hasn't.
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danmellor
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« Reply #35 on: July 06, 2016, 07:05:56 AM »

Thanks Bill and David. I'm not in a mad rush, so I'll wait for now...

Cheers,

Dan.
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danmellor
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« Reply #36 on: July 09, 2016, 04:33:19 PM »

I've just realised that I have quite a few sheets of black Esaki, so I'm going to press on with that! The tail surfaces may end up being remade if I'm not happy with how they look anyway, so black is no big deal.

Back soon,

Dan.
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danmellor
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« Reply #37 on: July 16, 2016, 01:47:10 PM »

I just bought a kit from eBay and it contains some white Esaki! I'm still waiting on my supplies arriving, but in the meantime, this will do nicely. Started covering the tail surfaces this afternoon, so I'll know if it looks any good soon...

Cheers,

Dan.
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PeeTee
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« Reply #38 on: July 16, 2016, 05:09:02 PM »

Quote
I've tried ordering some white Esaki from Flitehook three times, but have had no response. Anyone know anything?

Dan, have you had a reply yet? I saw John a couple of weeks ago and recall him mentioning that he was having computer problems  - it was away being fixed. Give him a call on the usual number and I'm sure he'll get it off to you pdq.

Peter
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danmellor
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« Reply #39 on: July 17, 2016, 09:08:13 AM »

There are two schools of thought for adhering tissue. Tissue paste, or thinned PVA and dope/thinners. I never got on with the dope/thinners method, so this is a compromise. The structure was given a coat of full strength sanding sealer, which was then sanded back and the tissue applied with the new version of Deluxe Material's Tissue paste. This is great stuff! The main snag I found with the dope method was the overlaps. They just never wanted to stick down around the edges.

Back soon,

Dan.
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danmellor
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« Reply #40 on: July 17, 2016, 02:31:08 PM »

Steam shrunk and first coat of dope on. They are looking good so far, but time will tell!

Cheers,

Dan.
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danmellor
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« Reply #41 on: July 17, 2016, 04:14:11 PM »

I've ended up with a couple of small wrinkles. They may go with another coat of dope, but I doubt it. Esaki loses most of it's shrink with the water/steam shrink. Not the end of the world. I'll use these as practice for the rib tapes if the worst comes to the worst!

Cheers,

Dan.
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billdennis747
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« Reply #42 on: July 17, 2016, 04:53:20 PM »

Dan I just cut them out (after one coat of dope) and patch. Then more dope and it's not noticeable. You're right, dope won't get rid of the wrinkles
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danmellor
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« Reply #43 on: July 17, 2016, 05:20:20 PM »

Ta Bill. I'll see what it looks like tomorrow...

Dan.
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« Reply #44 on: July 17, 2016, 06:40:23 PM »

I like a radiused fillet to get rid of such wrinkles, but in this case it would probably spoil the scale look.

I sometimes wonder if we worry too much about wrinkles (myself included) ... I remember the Old Warden SE5a having wrinkles in just the same places as we get them.
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ZK-AUD
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« Reply #45 on: July 17, 2016, 07:25:53 PM »

Nice job Dan - agree with Bill - just cut that bit out - you'll never know - you can feather the edges of such patches with 1500 grit wet and dry (used dry) followed by another light coat of dope around the edges.  On the subject of your edges being difficult to stick down, just run a wetted finger around first and then dope through - your recalcitrant Esaki won't stand a chance!
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danmellor
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« Reply #46 on: July 18, 2016, 02:13:23 PM »

It's annoying when, as a modeller, you spend ages trying to get everything smooth, tight and wrinkle free etc., then you stand next to a real aeroplane that is a mass of lumps, bumps, raised seams and everything you try to avoid on a model!

Cheers,

Dan.
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danmellor
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« Reply #47 on: July 20, 2016, 02:12:34 PM »

Most of the wrinkle has gone after another day or two shrinking. What remains will be under the proposed rib tape, so I may yet get away with it!

Cheers,

Dan.
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« Reply #48 on: July 21, 2016, 06:29:41 AM »

It's annoying when, as a modeller, you spend ages trying to get everything smooth, tight and wrinkle free etc., then you stand next to a real aeroplane that is a mass of lumps, bumps, raised seams and everything you try to avoid on a model!

Cheers,

Dan.
That's why I've ceased worrying about it, unless the wrinkle/lump/bump is REALLY gross.  I guess you'd have to have a photo to prove that the real thing was so "poorly" done...
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« Reply #49 on: August 15, 2016, 09:29:45 AM »

Not much progress for a while. I was busy getting stuff ready for the NCMAC Fun Fly at the weekend. I am, however, just about to steam the covered tailplane/elevators, so I'm still plodding on...

Cheers,

Dan.
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