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Author Topic: John Barker's Hepcat  (Read 9208 times)
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D/T
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« Reply #150 on: March 25, 2019, 11:06:13 AM »

I built mine to the old plan, and it is fine like that. Also the same with the prop blade.
Regards
Don
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Jastafuhrer 13
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« Reply #151 on: March 25, 2019, 05:29:29 PM »

Thanks Don. My best guess as to why they're both set to zero degrees is that's the easiest place to add an incidence shim is the rear of the stab on a parasol model.

Speaking of props, the block dimensions are 1 3/4 wide x 1 1/4 thick". I have a good block of 9# wood here that is 1 3/4 x 1 1/8". How much finer pitch would that yield? I've carved several propellers but never a single blade folder. I'm thinking of practicing on this block before ripping down one of my larger blocks.
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D/T
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« Reply #152 on: March 25, 2019, 07:16:06 PM »

Quote
Speaking of props, the block dimensions are 1 3/4 wide x 1 1/4 thick". I have a good block of 9# wood here that is 1 3/4 x 1 1/8".

Alternatively, reduce the width of your block to 1.6" and you will have the original pitch on a very slightly narrower blade. I do not think the slight difference in size would be at all noticeable and would save your supplies.

Don
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Jastafuhrer 13
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« Reply #153 on: April 30, 2019, 10:41:15 PM »

I'm nearly finished with my fuselage. I still need to add some details to rear for the DT after the stabilizer is built. I'm entering uncharted territory for me and need some advice on how to add lead for the prop counterweight. Do you use straight lead or lead/tin solder? Do you make some sort of mold to pour the molten lead into? Right now it just has a blog of tungsten putty on it.
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« Last Edit: April 30, 2019, 10:53:22 PM by Jastafuhrer 13 » Logged
gossie
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« Reply #154 on: May 01, 2019, 03:04:40 AM »

I've made lots of SBF props, and just fold the wire over onto its self, and either use solder or perhaps lead that I beat out flat and wrap around the wire. A spot of cyano works well to hold it.
Balance is important, so add a bit more lead, then balance as close as you can.
If it's a fraction shaky on launch then either pull the wire a little forward or backward to fine balance.
Pic of my Hepcat is back a bit, and here's the Vargowock on its way up, might give you an idea.
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D/T
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« Reply #155 on: May 01, 2019, 05:24:46 AM »

I solder sheet lead to the wire arm. With a fresh cut, unoxidised edge on the lead it solders very easily.

Don
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« Reply #156 on: May 02, 2019, 07:44:50 AM »

For the balance weight, I use very small egg or tear drop sinkers...I just bend over the wire and cyno it in place and it works a treat...the nice thing about single blade folders is you can have them fold on top of the fuselage out of the way and yes, fine tune the prop by binding the wire to have the weight about on the level of the center of the blade...are singles better than doubles? I would think not but I've never worried about the efficiency of them because if it's light, it'll go up...
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Jastafuhrer 13
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« Reply #157 on: May 10, 2019, 09:13:30 AM »

Thanks for the help guys. I have some clean 1/8" lead sheet that I will try to solder to the arm.

I'm building off the revised 2004 plan. I have my stab and funds done and I must say the attachment method is both clever and strong. As I began fitting the music wire stab hinge it dawned on me that it would prevent tilting the stabilizer for glide turn. This type of model is new to me so I'm not sure if stab tilt is the preferred method here. Advice? Pictures of updated plan shown for reference.
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gossie
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« Reply #158 on: August 14, 2019, 05:50:45 PM »

I'm looking for the plan/dimensions of the HEPCAT single blade propeller please.
I messed about with the plan downloads but it does not seem to work for me.
Just the prop. would be fine here or if not too difficult plan of the model would be okay.   Thanks. 
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applehoney
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« Reply #159 on: August 14, 2019, 06:04:10 PM »

It shall be done ... check  your emails Howard
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gossie
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« Reply #160 on: August 14, 2019, 09:06:28 PM »

Thank you VERY much Jim.
That's EXACTLY what I needed. Smiley
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Jastafuhrer 13
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« Reply #161 on: August 14, 2019, 10:17:51 PM »

Almost finished with my Hepcat (I'm a little slow) Esaki light blue, orange, and white finished in nitrate. Still need to finalize the prop assembly with a stop, spring, and counter balance.
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« Reply #162 on: August 14, 2019, 10:29:41 PM »

Here are a couple detail shots of the stab hinge arrangement per John's modified plan.
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gossie
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« Reply #163 on: August 16, 2019, 01:22:49 AM »

Thank you again Jim.
Proper blade made for the Hep Cat.
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« Reply #164 on: August 16, 2019, 03:20:31 AM »

Genius stuff going on here. I am getting the lumber together to do Applehoney’s Ellipsis. I am attracted to that wing. Anyway this thread has me getting pumped up. All that DT tackle is captivating! Thanks to all for sharing your dope with me!
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« Reply #165 on: August 25, 2019, 08:34:56 AM »

Ditto for mine...just finished #4 according to the original plan + D/t and wing tie-down dowels to move the wing...
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« Reply #166 on: December 08, 2019, 01:08:35 PM »

It's been quite a while since I built anything.  I think this model has been in the works for several years, and still isn't complete.

I have everything pretty much done except for the counterweight on the prop, which I haven't a clue how to attach.  I believe it is made of lead, and I have lead, but just not sure what to do.  I do not have a blowtorch to melt the lead.  Can anyone give me a clue how to attach a lead weight without melting lead.

Here is what I have done so far.  Not very good, as what meager skills I had years ago have atrophied.
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What's stall speed?  Undecided
billdennis747
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« Reply #167 on: December 08, 2019, 01:57:51 PM »

I have everything pretty much done except for the counterweight on the prop, which I haven't a clue how to attach.  I believe it is made of lead, and I have lead, but just not sure what to do.  I do not have a blowtorch to melt the lead.  Can anyone give me a clue how to attach a lead weight without melting lead.

I put a bend in the end of the wire to help it hold on to the lead. I cut a small piece of sheet lead and crimp it hard over the wire, then carefully solder where the wire disappears. The lead will melt a bit. Then it's a case of filing away until it balances
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crashcaley
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« Reply #168 on: December 08, 2019, 02:45:28 PM »

Bill, Thanks a lot.  All I have are the lead fishing weights.  I will have to pound one of them fairly flat, and then do what you said.  Hopefully things will work out.  Caley
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What's stall speed?  Undecided
billdennis747
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« Reply #169 on: December 08, 2019, 02:50:12 PM »

You don't need a blowtorch - a soldering iron will melt lead, unless fishing weights are something different. I use scraps of roof lead.
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crashcaley
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« Reply #170 on: December 08, 2019, 02:54:13 PM »

Bill,  The weights I have are supposed to be lead, though who knows, as California bans a lot of things.

EDITED:  I did pound out a two ounce lead fishing weight to as thin as I could get it.  I then cut a strip of it.  Then basted it with solder flux.  I then wrapped it around the end of the counterbalance wire, which I carefully cleaned to prepare for soldering.  I then just heated everything up, and allowed the solder to be pulled into all the gaps in the lead I had wrapped.  Seems to be firmly placed.  I think plumbers use this type of technique when soldering copper components to a copper pipe.  Seems to have worked OK for a first time doing anything like this.  The total counterbalance weight was 2.6 grams.  Like always, everything I build is built to the weight of a tank.

Now all I have to do is assemble things, and balance the model. 

And then I have to find a way of getting to the local park, where there is some grass for glide testing  The previous photo is pretty much how the model will look 

Bill, Thanks for the nudge on ideas on how to get the weight in place.  Sometimes it just takes someone to rattle my brain a little to understand how to do things.
« Last Edit: December 08, 2019, 03:58:49 PM by crashcaley » Logged

What's stall speed?  Undecided
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« Reply #171 on: December 08, 2019, 03:28:05 PM »

Snap! here's mine-almost completed (still have to set up DT) built for my wife to fly at our Nats in about 3 weeks time.  I just used solder for the counterweight, cyanoed to locate it, then ran in epoxy to lock it in position. Of more import-IMO is the actual fold location....and mine is carefully located to position the prop blade snugly on the RHS of the fuselage nose....and equally important-the counterweight arm is sticking out the side....a lot of people seem to think folding the prop on TOP of the nose is the way to go....well it may be...but it ALSO guarantees you will snag the counterweight arm on landing....or gliding in...(not so important if you DT straight down...but if you glide in..!)

  ChrisM
  'ffkiwi'

PS Mine also built from the 2004 updated plan from the maestro himself
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crashcaley
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« Reply #172 on: December 08, 2019, 05:19:50 PM »

I finally got everything balanced and weighed.  I was right about the weight.  It's all up weight is 76.5 grams.  I really got lucky with the balance.  It was almost spot on with the recommended rubber.  I may have to add some tail weight, but only a smidgen of a gram.

Now I need to go through the have not finished model airplane box, ans see what else is there.
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What's stall speed?  Undecided
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« Reply #173 on: December 08, 2019, 07:01:24 PM »

Good to see you back building Caley. Good luck with your Hepcat.

John
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« Reply #174 on: December 08, 2019, 08:12:36 PM »

I don't think you skills have degraded.  One or two more and you will be back to where you were!
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I used to like painting with dope but now I can't remember why!    Steve Fauble
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