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Author Topic: VMC cookup?  (Read 20123 times)
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billdennis747
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« Reply #125 on: July 26, 2017, 05:47:07 AM »

I have found that if you hold the switch down on an electric kettle to keep it boiling, it breaks!
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Pete Fardell
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« Reply #126 on: July 26, 2017, 06:18:32 AM »

That's why our kettle only has the stubby remnants of a switch left (although Carole doesn't actually know that's why it's broken). If you just leave the lid off the kettle though, it boils forever without the necessity to hold down the switch.
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billdennis747
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« Reply #127 on: July 26, 2017, 07:08:47 AM »

Yes but sometimes only a spout will do.
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Pete Fardell
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« Reply #128 on: July 26, 2017, 07:20:11 AM »

Well there's always the old fashioned singing kettle on the hob option I suppose.

(It's almost as though modern kettles were designed without aeromodellers in mind at all.)
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Pete Fardell
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« Reply #129 on: July 26, 2017, 01:10:07 PM »

With the cabane struts set using the very satisfying jig system it was time for a tentative mock-up. Not quite at the making aeroplane noises stage yet, but getting there. Noseblock next.
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Pete Fardell
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« Reply #130 on: July 27, 2017, 01:03:05 PM »

The wheels have an option to make with either two solid circles plus tyre rings, or just one solid circle plus tyres. The comment on the instructions says that the thicker or thinner wheel decision will be "dictated by the scheme you are doing". Did some SE5s have fatter wheels then? Or is it really just about having two circles cross-grained for strength vs just one for lightness? The thinner version at least looks okay to me.
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« Last Edit: July 27, 2017, 01:18:43 PM by Pete Fardell » Logged
Pete Fardell
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« Reply #131 on: July 27, 2017, 01:21:50 PM »

Thinking about it; once the 'spoke' triangles are added the wheels will be plenty strong enough anyway.
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Andrew Darby
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« Reply #132 on: July 27, 2017, 02:07:02 PM »

Funny that!  I saw your post, and was going to reply and had to take a call and by the time I got back you had figured it out...

The thing is that the balsa varies in thickness, so sometimes it looked to thin with the one disk if the stock was on the thin side, and too thick with two if it was a bit on the thicker side thus the addition of the extra disk and referral to the prototype (what "looks right") and the option given on the plan.

Personally I would use both discs sand the lamination thinner, so you get the best of both worlds...

 I was also about to comment that the "wedge" shape pieces make things strong enough, but you got there before me!  Grin

« Last Edit: July 27, 2017, 03:03:45 PM by Andrew Darby » Logged

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Pete Fardell
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« Reply #133 on: July 27, 2017, 02:25:45 PM »

Cheers Andrew- I knew there'd be a logical explanation!  Grin
(and I was forgetting about the smaller circle on the inside which means the wheel is still cross grained even without the extra layer)
« Last Edit: July 27, 2017, 02:39:45 PM by Pete Fardell » Logged
Pete Fardell
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« Reply #134 on: August 03, 2017, 04:25:02 PM »

I've spent most of today preparing decals. Several hours on the computer with MS Paint and the photos of the subject eventually gave me something to work from. Don't know why it takes me so long.
The model's not covered yet, but I really like covering and don't much like making decals, so my plan is to get them out of the way now so that when it is covered I won't have that sinking feeling. I'll be all ready to bung them straight on.

I sprayed some white tissue white (acrylic) on its reverse side and made stencils to add the 26s with a pencil then Sharpie. A layer of acrylic varnish should seal them and I'll just stick them on with gluestick I think.

The fuselage letters (G-EAXT) will be cut from the same white tissue, using the paper version to cut through a few layers together. That's tomorrow's job, as following Roman's method I've gluesticked-the back of the tissue and left it drying overnight. The idea, he tells me,  is to use a lttle water on a brush to resoften the dry glue backing as they're positioned.

 Hope they turn out half as neat as yours, Roman!
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DHnut
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« Reply #135 on: August 03, 2017, 07:45:57 PM »

Andrew,
             A photo of the parts before covering. It really flew together. I am replacing the paper on the nose with balsa and have found a local aircraft for a yellow and white scheme. I will use airbrush ink to give a little substance to the tissue. I have a query on the covering. Do you start on the leading or trailing edge? The result on the woing was reasonable but I am not sure if starting on the trailing edge is the best solution.
Ricky     
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Andrew Darby
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« Reply #136 on: August 04, 2017, 03:17:24 AM »

Hi Ricky,

From the pictures did you join the wing tips to the wing before covering?  It makes for a better covering job IMO as the tissue doesn't tend to pull inwhat would be the end rib out of shape when it shrinks.

I can't remember what I wrote in the instructions but I would probably cover the main wing all in one go spanwise from dihedral break to dihedral break, underside first, then the top.

I am not sure what you mean about leading or trailing edge first, I would just apply glue stick obliquely to the leading edge, then flat along the dihedral break, then along the training edge.  I would cut the tissue around 1/2" too long to give me something to tug at.  On applying it to the wing, I would slit the tissue at the dihedral break each side to avoid it wrinkling up then I would tug and pull it all taught, both chord wise and span wise, before trimming the edges and sealing them with PVA.

I mentioned to Hadi at VMC that I should do a video of covering a wing at some point, it would probably be much clearer than my explaination above!

Andrew

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« Reply #137 on: August 04, 2017, 03:18:05 AM »

Pete, looking good. I am sure it will work. Looking forward to see the result.

Roman
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danmellor
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« Reply #138 on: August 04, 2017, 03:42:25 AM »

Ricky, when I covered mine it was one piece, tip to tip on the underside and 3 pieces for the top. I had no trouble, but I made sure most of the adhesive was under the high point of the LE, so none could sneak between the noses of the ribs and cause wrinkles.

Cheers,

Dan.
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DHnut
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« Reply #139 on: August 04, 2017, 06:24:46 AM »

Thanks for the feedback Andrew and Dan. I covered after I had assembled the wing and started with the centre section and tips on the bottom. Then the centre section on the top starting on the trailing edge using non shrinking dope ( Randolf thinned 50% ). You have aswered my question Andrew as you start on the leading edge. Finally the tip as seperate pieces. It is all pinned down at the moment. More photos to follow. I do like your tail structures as they are much more robust and will resist warps. Strength and stifness are often confused when it comes to light structures. I hope you are enjoying your holiday. I was lucky enough to have a 6 week canal holiday that started in Le Harve and finished in Amsterdam via Paris and the Moselle through some very historic and beautiful country.       
Ricky
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Andrew Darby
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« Reply #140 on: August 04, 2017, 07:14:20 AM »

Thanks Dan, a good point about the glue "sneaking in" is suppose that's a plus for using the glue stick.

Ricky, I think I know what you mean now but with me it all happens rather in one go, ie I cover the entire structure with glue stick in one hit, then the tissue goes on top in doing everything in one action, sort of tugging it in position as required. It is sometimes hard to describe something one does instintictively!

I reckon you have it well sussed, but a few folks have asked VMC for a video so I guess it will help others and even myself - since I seem to have even confused myself with the description of what I do!  Cheesy

Yes I love France, we holiday here most years, the canals are very impresive, far larger than the ones in the UK.  There is an old lock just 20 yards from my house near Derby, but the section is filled in.  They keep trying to raise the money and interest to open it up again, but I don't think it will ever happen...

We went over the border on Wednesday, and went up the longest cable car in Germany.  All I could think of on the journey up was "Where Eagles Dare" I half expected to find the Schloss Adler at the top!

We have a long drive over to the Loire tommorow for our second week...

Cheers all

Andrew

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Pete Fardell
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« Reply #141 on: August 05, 2017, 03:03:10 PM »

Glad you liked the Alsace- I think we'll certainly go back at some point. Enjoy Pt 2 of your hol.

SE5 letters all cut out and I'll soon be ready to start covering. I've just ordered some Eze Dope which I've never used before. On tissue finished (ie non colour-sprayed) models I started off with banana oil but found I like the more consistent tautness you get with ordinary non-shrinking dope. But one thing I did like about banana oil is that it doesn't make the tissue go as transparent as ordinary dope does. How does Eze Dope compare in that regard I wonder?
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Andrew Darby
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« Reply #142 on: August 06, 2017, 04:36:12 AM »

The Ezedope leaves a sheen, but not particicularly transparent IIRC.  I have used it on the VMC tissue, with good results, although I still prefer to use banana oil just becuase that's what I have always done.  The one advantage Ezedope does have is that it doesn't let the tissue go slack in humid or damp conditions...

Shrink with a 5% solution, in your normal sprayer thingy, this gives the tissue sufficient wet strength to take the Ezedope as it is water based and it will just break up if you don't.

What is important is that you brush it out, leaving it on the surface will leave patches which them turn sort of chalky looking.  Apparently the best thing to use is one of those "brushes" which is just an angled piece of sponge - but I haven't tried them myself...

Andrew
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Pete Fardell
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« Reply #143 on: August 06, 2017, 05:12:42 AM »

Thanks, Andrew. I'll give it a go, but on an experimental frame first I think. I quite like the sheen you get on the Ezedoped models I've seen- Monz's DVII for instance.
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Andrew Darby
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« Reply #144 on: August 06, 2017, 11:39:28 AM »

Hi Pete, if you decide to try those sponge brushes then will you let us know how you get on with them?  I fact let us know how you get on either way..  Grin

Andrew
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« Reply #145 on: August 08, 2017, 08:11:45 PM »

Complete change of plan for me! After being enthused by the Hurricane pics in the VMC Mustang thread, I've just bought a Hurri kit. I plan on doing the civil air racer version that flew in the King's Cup postwar. I'm not sure without checking, but I think this AC went on to the BBMF. No doubt someone better informed can fill me in...

Cheers,

Dan.
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Snaky Stringer
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« Reply #146 on: August 09, 2017, 05:56:36 AM »

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hawker_Hurricane_PZ865

This should answer your question.
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danmellor
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« Reply #147 on: August 09, 2017, 06:40:38 AM »

Thanks! I thought so, but couldn't remember where I'd read it.

Dan.
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« Reply #148 on: August 09, 2017, 07:01:02 PM »

Hurri started! Just the tailplane so far...

Back soon!

Dan.
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Pete Fardell
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« Reply #149 on: August 10, 2017, 11:38:20 AM »

SE5 covering started at last...
Step 1. Cover the fin and rudder with brown tissue both sides.
Step 2. Realise that in my chosen scheme I should have covered this part blue.
Step 3. Remove brown tissue.
Step 4. Decide to start with the tailplane instead.
Step 5. Cover tailplane with brown tissue, both sides.
Step 6. Realise only the top should have been brown.
Step 7. Remove underside tissue from tailplane.

Etc. etc. etc.

Pictures will follow when I've got something non-cocked up to show. Could be a while yet...
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