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Author Topic: Clint Brooks Boomer MkII P-30  (Read 1022 times)
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crashcaley
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« on: March 27, 2020, 10:12:11 PM »

I recently received from Dean McGinnes a nice P-30 kit, the Boomer MkII.  He asked me to do a build on this kit like I did with the Baron Knight II I just finished.

The first thing is to post the various things enclosed in the kit box.  Clint has provided what I consider the most complete kit I have ever seen.  It basically includes everything except for the glue, and the dope and thinner.

Not sure how quickly this will go together, but one nice thing is that the fuselage and pylon balsa parts are all built and assembled.  I will just have to add the various hardware and cover it.

Years ago, when I was first starting to learn how to build these balsa models, I attempted the Boomer MkI.  It was an attempt, and I never could get all the little fiddly bits to go where and how they were supposed to.  Hopefully I have learned a lot more, and can now build a kit like this one.

So, here are the pictures of the goodies.

Attached files Thumbnail(s):
Clint Brooks Boomer MkII P-30
Clint Brooks Boomer MkII P-30
Clint Brooks Boomer MkII P-30
Clint Brooks Boomer MkII P-30
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Indoorflyer
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« Reply #1 on: March 27, 2020, 10:36:26 PM »

That's a nice looking P30 project.  I understand that is a very nice kit indeed.  Not sure what the differences are between your MkII and the current MkIII, but there is a nice construction detail booklet  (with pictures) that can be downloaded from the CB website.

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crashcaley
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« Reply #2 on: April 07, 2020, 10:41:17 PM »

Back at it again.  Had been busy doing work on the property while the weather was nice.  Rain is back again.

I managed to remove all the parts from the parts sheets.  There are a lot of them, as Clint has made parts that normally we would make out of normal strip stock.

Not everything is shown in the photo below.  There are a few parts I am still trying to identify.  And the remainder of those not shown are for mounting the D/T system.
Attached files Thumbnail(s):
Re: Clint Brooks Boomer MkII P-30
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crashcaley
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« Reply #3 on: April 28, 2020, 08:16:16 PM »

Been a while since I last posted.  Been busy again with home renovations and improvements.

I've slowly gotten the wing put together.  As with the last Boomer I attempted to build, this one is also giving me troubles because of the added tabs Clint added to aid in building.  Seems they only confuse me, so I had to remove them, and build as I usually do, with shims, and other ways I have come up with because of my use of the magnetic building board.

Below is a kind of sequence of how everything went together.  Sorry, but my brain forgot a few times I should have snapped a pic, but these give you a general idea of how things went together.  Only have the rear center sopars to add, and then do LE and TE sanding, along with all the required finish and touch up sanding a build requires.
Attached files Thumbnail(s):
Re: Clint Brooks Boomer MkII P-30
Re: Clint Brooks Boomer MkII P-30
Re: Clint Brooks Boomer MkII P-30
Re: Clint Brooks Boomer MkII P-30
Re: Clint Brooks Boomer MkII P-30
Re: Clint Brooks Boomer MkII P-30
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crashcaley
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« Reply #4 on: April 28, 2020, 08:16:53 PM »

And one last picture
Attached files Thumbnail(s):
Re: Clint Brooks Boomer MkII P-30
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calgoddard
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« Reply #5 on: April 28, 2020, 08:47:53 PM »

Caley - Nice work building the wing.

It looks like you didn't build any wash-out into the wing tips.

What do Clint's instructions recommend in this regard?

I would think that your P-30 would benefit from having about 1/8-inch of wash-out in each wing tip. This would help the model maintain lateral stability.

You can use a heat gun and twist the wing to get the wash-out in the frame before you cover it.  It takes two hands to twist each wing tip, so mount the heat gun in a vise.

If you are going to cover the wing with tissue you can add the wash-out after the covering is applied.  Shim the wing tips after you wet the tissue and that should put in the needed warps as the tissue dries and shrinks.

If you are covering the wing with Mylar plastic film you can twist the wing tips while you shrink the film with a heat gun.

Keep up the good work.

Clint's company (CB Model Designs) produces some of the best kits that are commercially available.  His instructions are second to none.
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crashcaley
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« Reply #6 on: April 28, 2020, 08:52:37 PM »

Cal,  There actually is 1/8 inch washout in each wingtip.  It's just hard to see. 

Clint's instructions are super, but unfortunately I do not speak the same language as most modelers, so I have difficulty in understanding what is being said in the instructions.  So I tend to just look at the pictures and wing it.
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flydean1
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« Reply #7 on: April 28, 2020, 10:42:26 PM »

Caley, your "winging it" produces some really fine looking wings.
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crashcaley
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« Reply #8 on: June 04, 2020, 12:27:22 PM »

I'm still here and going at it, but slowly.  And unfortunately my covering of the fuselage was a disaster, and then I tried to cover that disaster with a lit coating of spray paint, and, well,  not very happy.  Anyway, I got the stab, fin and fuselage with fiddly bits done.  Still need to cover the wing, fin and stab.

One reason I have been so slow is that I have an outdoor project that keeps me pretty well tired after I finish a section in the morning.  Attached is a non airplane picture to let you know why I have been so slow.
Attached files Thumbnail(s):
Re: Clint Brooks Boomer MkII P-30
Re: Clint Brooks Boomer MkII P-30
Re: Clint Brooks Boomer MkII P-30
Re: Clint Brooks Boomer MkII P-30
Re: Clint Brooks Boomer MkII P-30
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DerekMc
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« Reply #9 on: June 04, 2020, 12:59:24 PM »

Cool driveway project! Or should I say 'hot'  Smiley
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They fly better when you smile!
Derek
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« Reply #10 on: June 04, 2020, 01:56:45 PM »

You are an excellent builder!  I wish you well in your flying endeavors.  I haven't flown anything for about 5 years. After my last hip break I doubt that I will ever fly again but that is just the problem with age.
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I used to like painting with dope but now I can't remember why!    Steve Fauble
crashcaley
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« Reply #11 on: June 04, 2020, 02:08:06 PM »

Steve,  So sorry to hear you are now incapacitated by hip problems.  I know you probably still love the hobby, and it is difficult when you cannot participate fully.

BTW, the fuselage structure was completely pre-built in this kit.  All I am having to do with it is cover it, and add all the fiddly bits.  Wing, fin and stab do require the full build as seen in this thread.  Still trying to determine if I am going to again add enough colour to blind Everyone at the flying field.  :-) Shocked
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randoloid
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« Reply #12 on: June 04, 2020, 04:55:10 PM »

Looking good.   I'm trying to decide if I'm gonna cover the fuse on a P-30 that I'm working on now... always hate trying to tissue the tube and pylon.  At the moment it's got a couple lite coats of nitrate dope.  considering airbrushing some transparent inks on the nose.  Just something to give it a little flair.

What will you be covering your wing and stab with?
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crashcaley
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« Reply #13 on: June 04, 2020, 05:24:07 PM »

I'll be using Esaki.  Just trying to figure out what colours.
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danberry
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« Reply #14 on: June 08, 2020, 11:35:17 PM »

I'll be using Esaki.  Just trying to figure out what colours.

You should avoid brown and green.
And use a white fin.
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crashcaley
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« Reply #15 on: July 05, 2020, 03:10:43 PM »

Hi Dan,  Really not to worry about losing it here in the desert, as there just isn't much green out at the dry lake bed.  Plenty of brown and sand colour though.  That's why I created a blindingly colourful model.  Kind of hard not to see it either in the air, or on the ground.

For the most part, the model is done, but do have to put in the D/t lines and a few other fiddly bits.

Then I just have to wait for this flu thing to go away, if it ever does, so I can glide test and hopefully start doing power adjustments.  I've used a Montreal front end on my F1B and F1G models, but never dealt with a nose setup like this, that doesn't have a way to mechanically adjust the thrust angle.  I guess you do a little sanding of where the nose enters the fuselage, and add ply shims opposite.  Maybe someone can tell me how you adjust the thrust line on a tube fuselage nose setup.

Sorry to blind Everyone, but here it is.
Attached files Thumbnail(s):
Re: Clint Brooks Boomer MkII P-30
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FLYACE1946
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« Reply #16 on: July 05, 2020, 07:45:15 PM »

Caley that looks very nice. Very nice. Sure do like the different color approach. Clean construction is very well done. Good Luck with the dt operating as necessary.
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« Reply #17 on: July 05, 2020, 08:41:07 PM »

Striking colour scheme Caley. It should definitely show up on thee ground and in the air.  Smiley it's a nice looking model.

As for adjusting down thrust/side thrust - I think you are right. I had a balsa tube fuse P30 and that is basically what I did.

The driveway looked like a fair bit of work - it looks very neat.

John
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crashcaley
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« Reply #18 on: July 05, 2020, 08:52:40 PM »

John, Thanks for confirming my guess about thrust adjustment.

Yes, the driveway is a real test of patience.  Right now it is too hot to lay cement, so I am accumulating that rock during the summer months.  I estimate the total number of those flat rocks needed at 8000.  And I seem to be close to running out of the first source.  Hopefully I can find another source.  BTW, after that picture was taken, I managed to lay three more rows of 36 x 144 inch strip of that stuff.  So I have it at the peak of my driveway.  I had to put a slope there to stop the flood waters that come through.  I live in a one foot flood zone.
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edhardin
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« Reply #19 on: July 06, 2020, 04:56:13 PM »

The later model Boomer Mk lll uses a Gizmo Geezer prop assembly that has three equally spaced screws for thrust adjustments. you could use one in your nose block or just the adjustable nose button and use your present prop. Here is a link that shows these products. https://www.modelaviationproducts.com/products/gizmo-geezer-and-free-flight-products/14
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crashcaley
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« Reply #20 on: July 06, 2020, 05:25:27 PM »

Yes, I wish I had the confidence to actually drill that lare a hole in such a small nose block.  That's one reason I didn't even try.  I just doubt the tools I have, and my fingers could perform that task.  Of course, if I just slapped some balsa squares together, and drilled first, then cut things down and sanded, that would work.  Unfortunately, I don't have any G-G prop assemblies anymore.  I gave them away years ago.
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danberry
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« Reply #21 on: July 06, 2020, 11:11:28 PM »

The plane looks good although I couldn't see the fin ........
Thrust adjustment with a sanding block will do fine. 80-100 grit makes it easy.
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« Reply #22 on: July 07, 2020, 07:25:15 AM »

Caley,

Nice looking model. The reason Dan couldn't see the fin is because it is not white. Both Dan and I learned from Tom Mclaughlin that a white fin would show up better when a model was silhouetted against a dark tree line. Probably not a problem in your part of the world.

Black also works great for the bottom of wings to contrast against the sky.

Louis
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