Logo
Builders' Plan Gallery  |  Hip Pocket Web Site  |  Contact Forum Admin (Account/Technical Issues)  |  Contact Global Moderator
September 17, 2021, 12:19:16 PM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?

Login with email, password and session length
 
Home Help Search Login Register
Pages: 1 [2] 3   Go Down
Print
Author Topic: P-30 props  (Read 4042 times)
0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
skyrocket
Gold Member
*****

Kudos: 32
Offline Offline

United States United States

Posts: 746

Topic starter
nothing hard is ever easy



Ignore
« Reply #25 on: June 28, 2018, 09:50:35 PM »

I've been using a Chinese (orange) prop for a couple years unmodified now and don't find a need for any kind of clutch...just the ramp as supplied...BUT I braid my motors which are 12 x 1/16" and each motor fits the peg to hook so it free wheels...yes they are short but the climb is what gets them up to useful air like right now and I like that style of flying...
Logged
Tapio Linkosalo
Platinum Member
******

Kudos: 35
Offline Offline

Finland Finland

Posts: 1,338



Ignore
« Reply #26 on: June 28, 2018, 11:39:54 PM »

ZK-AUD, that is neat! I have tried many kinds of free wheelers and ended up using just the plastic wedge molded to the props by default. Mostly as all kinds of washers soldered to the prop shaft tend to weaken them (if silver solder) or do not hold (if soft solder). This construction takes the assembly to place where it does not make a weak spot to the shaft (between prop and nose bearing); probably you could even make it threaded attachment!
Logged
Bigbandito
Silver Member
****

Kudos: 5
Offline Offline

United States United States

Posts: 153




Ignore
« Reply #27 on: June 29, 2018, 11:18:56 AM »

Quote
1.4.2. Balancing by the addition of weight to one blade will be allowed.

Does this mean no scraping or sanding to balance? [he asked, afraid of what the answer might be]

Quote
That is so.  Sorry.....



Correct

So then how do you decide if the imbalance is enough to address and what is the best/easiest/most common way of adding weight?

Thanks for your tolerance of multiple newbie - if not "stupid" - questions.
Logged

"If you love something, set it free...  Just make sure you've got a DT on it."  - Richard Bach (paraphrased)
Red Buzzard
Silver Member
****

Kudos: 4
Offline Offline

United States United States

Posts: 152



Ignore
« Reply #28 on: June 29, 2018, 11:23:16 AM »

Hey Big,

I use electrician's tape.

RB
Logged
skyrocket
Gold Member
*****

Kudos: 32
Offline Offline

United States United States

Posts: 746

Topic starter
nothing hard is ever easy



Ignore
« Reply #29 on: June 29, 2018, 12:22:39 PM »

yep...the tape thingy works for a lot of plastic props...put it on top for further disruption of air flow...I haven't decided yet what it should look like (the tape) and where is the best position..............are we getting too technical about a P-30?Huh...I've tried Ikara props and Peck's but these Chinese ones work well....I tried a thought experiment recently using a 1/16" rolled motor tube mated to a hobby shop hollow 1/8" OD carbon rod for the boom and it worked out very nice. I mated the two with a conical balsa plug. Simple and quick to build and the only tricksy thing to watch out for is the alignment but using cyno, once it's set, move on to other things...I'm still using Benedek 6356b airfoils for the wing and they are a pain sometimes with geodetic construction but I want them stiff for the faster speed going up on prop run...as you can tell, I like traditional construction and tend to shy away from CF....Luddites Rule....
Logged
Bigbandito
Silver Member
****

Kudos: 5
Offline Offline

United States United States

Posts: 153




Ignore
« Reply #30 on: June 29, 2018, 12:35:32 PM »

Another dumb question: Can I paint the prop? ...and maybe balance it with the paint?

Probably not something you'd do on a "normal" P-30; but I'm building the P-30 Spitfire and orange just ain't gonna work. I don't imagine it'll be too competitive in P-30; but being uncompetitive is not as bad as being disqualified.  Wink Grin
Logged

"If you love something, set it free...  Just make sure you've got a DT on it."  - Richard Bach (paraphrased)
danberry
Gold Member
*****

Kudos: 17
Offline Offline

United States United States

Posts: 987



Ignore
« Reply #31 on: June 29, 2018, 01:16:46 PM »

Quote
1.4.2. Balancing by the addition of weight to one blade will be allowed.

Does this mean no scraping or sanding to balance? [he asked, afraid of what the answer might be]

Quote
That is so.  Sorry.....



Correct

I use spray paint on the light blade.

So then how do you decide if the imbalance is enough to address and what is the best/easiest/most common way of adding weight?

Thanks for your tolerance of multiple newbie - if not "stupid" - questions.
Logged
danberry
Gold Member
*****

Kudos: 17
Offline Offline

United States United States

Posts: 987



Ignore
« Reply #32 on: June 29, 2018, 01:20:35 PM »

I use spray paint on the light blade.
Logged
Bigbandito
Silver Member
****

Kudos: 5
Offline Offline

United States United States

Posts: 153




Ignore
« Reply #33 on: June 29, 2018, 02:13:47 PM »

I use spray paint on the light blade.

I like that answer. Thanks.
Logged

"If you love something, set it free...  Just make sure you've got a DT on it."  - Richard Bach (paraphrased)
danberry
Gold Member
*****

Kudos: 17
Offline Offline

United States United States

Posts: 987



Ignore
« Reply #34 on: June 29, 2018, 03:27:02 PM »

I used floral spray on the last one.
Don't do that. It took at least four nights. The stuff doesn't weigh enough.
Logged
OZPAF
Palladium Member
********

Kudos: 192
Offline Offline

Australia Australia

Posts: 6,438



Ignore
« Reply #35 on: June 29, 2018, 07:34:00 PM »

If the balance is not too far off then you could try adding small lengths of clear tape to the back of the blade at the tip.

John
Logged
skyrocket
Gold Member
*****

Kudos: 32
Offline Offline

United States United States

Posts: 746

Topic starter
nothing hard is ever easy



Ignore
« Reply #36 on: June 29, 2018, 09:41:46 PM »

I like your idea John...
Logged
danberry
Gold Member
*****

Kudos: 17
Offline Offline

United States United States

Posts: 987



Ignore
« Reply #37 on: June 30, 2018, 10:28:07 PM »

If the balance is not too far off then you could try adding small lengths of clear tape to the back of the blade at the tip.

John

That would be doomed to peeling off. I would think.
Logged
Flyguy
Gold Member
*****

Kudos: 44
Offline Offline

United States United States

Posts: 897




Ignore
« Reply #38 on: June 30, 2018, 10:48:30 PM »

I like to use lead tape, the nice part about that is that you can use a very small piece.
Logged
OZPAF
Palladium Member
********

Kudos: 192
Offline Offline

Australia Australia

Posts: 6,438



Ignore
« Reply #39 on: July 01, 2018, 04:14:02 AM »

Quote
That would be doomed to peeling off. I would think.

It actually hangs on quite well. I can't vouch for it if the prop gets very wet however. I first saw this used on RC open F5E electric props. They do a few more revs than rubber Smiley I have also used them on RC sports electric props a P30 prop, and RC helicopter blades. 

John
Logged
ILM Tarheel
Silver Member
****

Kudos: 9
Offline Offline

United States United States

Posts: 202



Ignore
« Reply #40 on: July 01, 2018, 09:46:19 AM »

I sometimes use the lead tape used by golfers to balance golf clubs but I really like "prism" tape. It adds a nice flash to the spinning prop. I also use it on fishing lures, which get very wet, and it does not come off.

Jimmy J
Attached files Thumbnail(s):
Re: P-30 props
Logged
flydean1
Platinum Member
******

Kudos: 30
Offline Offline

United States United States

Posts: 1,318



Ignore
« Reply #41 on: July 01, 2018, 10:02:19 AM »

Source of prism tape?
Logged
ILM Tarheel
Silver Member
****

Kudos: 9
Offline Offline

United States United States

Posts: 202



Ignore
« Reply #42 on: July 01, 2018, 10:37:39 AM »

flydean1, I get mine at Wal-Mart. Usually found in tape displays in the hardware or craft areas of many stores. Also easily found online. Comes in many brands and colors. Prism tape is my description not a particular tape.

Jimmy J
Logged
frash
Gold Member
*****

Kudos: 12
Offline Offline

United States United States

Posts: 475



Ignore
« Reply #43 on: July 01, 2018, 11:31:36 AM »

Thanks for alerting us, or at least me, to the reflective Prism tape. I have used the golfers' lead tape for a long time.

Fred Rash
Logged
calgoddard
Platinum Member
******

Kudos: 29
Offline Offline

United States United States

Posts: 1,056


AMA, NFFS & FAC Member



Ignore
« Reply #44 on: July 07, 2018, 07:51:02 PM »

I use clear Scotch brand "Decorate & Repair Tape" to balance my larger plastic props, like P-30 props.  You can use it on grey, red or yellow props, or any other color props without detracting from aesthetics, which is less important on sport models, but more important on FAC Rubber Scale models. This type of adhesive tape is considerably heavier than the clear Scotch brand adhesive tape used for gift wrapping, etc. The latter is not heavy enough.

I have never had any problems with the Scotch Decorate & Repair tape coming off of a prop.

I only put the tape on the rear side of one blade, near the tip. I was told that this interferes less with the performance of the prop than if you put the tape on the forward side of the blade.  I am not sure the front or rear location of the tape makes any significant difference in the performance of the prop. I think the positive effect of having the prop dynamically balanced outweighs any negative effect of the minute additional drag caused by the very thin profile of adhesive tape.

If you put on too much tape, pull off the strip and shorten the same. If you put on too little, add a small strip of tape. This is a trial and error process.

Avoid overlapping strips of tape on the prop as this will unecesarily increase drag.

P-30 rules do not allow scraping of the plastic prop blades.  You may prefer to scrape the heavier blade of the plastic prop to avoid adding weight to your model if the rules of the pertinent class permit the same.
   
Logged
TRuss
Bronze Member
***

Kudos: 1
Offline Offline

United States United States

Posts: 91



Ignore
« Reply #45 on: July 18, 2018, 01:18:04 AM »

I used regular scotch tape.  I just put it on the backside, mainly so that it wouldn't show and as close to the tip as possible to reduce the amount of tape needed.  I would have used Blenderm if I had some. 
Logged
riversidedan
Bronze Member
***

Kudos: 2
Offline Offline

United States United States

Posts: 82



Ignore
« Reply #46 on: November 22, 2018, 12:42:16 AM »

Yes I try to braid all my motors and depending on the total length of rubber at 9.5 grams and the length of the stirrup I use because I might have to make up special ones for the shorter motors...just working on joining the wing panels together now...so far I've kept all it light and the geodetics have kept it rigid and straight...the only problem I've faced is mating the CF boom to the fuselage with a block of balsa and keeping it straight and so a little bit of incidence crept in...we'll see because I've added 3 alternative positions for the wing to go back and forth...I'm pleased so far...

when you say boom are you referring to carbon heli booms for blast tubes??? Ive had that thought for long time but wasn't sure if anyone had the same idea
Logged

CAUTION!! politicians may be harmful to your health
Crabby
Titanium Member
*******

Kudos: 141
Offline Offline

United States United States

Posts: 2,421


I never met a modeler I didn't like



Ignore
« Reply #47 on: December 17, 2018, 04:28:22 PM »

There was some discussion about freewheels earlier on - here is my current approach,  though these photos are on a small scale model.  It's just a tube cross-drilled through a larger tube and sleeved to the shaft diameter with a small length of the smaller diameter tube.  The solder goes in through the front which hits the cross tube and shaft at the same time.  They've never let go on me.  I used to square lash the cross tube directly to the shaft and solder but this is fiddly and can let go sometimes.  This is much better.

Hi ZK, can you give me a explanation on how you would do a prop change?  I am lost on that move!
Logged

The Threadkiller!
applehoney
Titanium Member
*******

Kudos: 280
Offline Offline

Canada Canada

Posts: 3,195




Ignore
« Reply #48 on: December 17, 2018, 06:26:51 PM »

Now that's an interesting question !    WHY would you want to do a prop change on a P30?  In all the years I've flown this class I've never experienced a need for such.
Logged
flydean1
Platinum Member
******

Kudos: 30
Offline Offline

United States United States

Posts: 1,318



Ignore
« Reply #49 on: December 17, 2018, 11:08:08 PM »

You don't crash.  Some of the rest of us do.
Logged
Pages: 1 [2] 3   Go Up
Print
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.21 | SMF © 2015, Simple Machines Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!