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Author Topic: B-17 F  (Read 8741 times)
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C VEICH
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« Reply #125 on: April 24, 2019, 01:48:19 AM »

A wise man on this board once said building a rubber powered model airplane is 90% building the structure and 90% figuring out the details.


I am still a relative beginner at FF but in the RC scale fraternity we say that once a model is all framed up and ready for finish work to begin that it is "90% done with 90% left to go".  So I think I can relate to your sentiment!
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« Reply #126 on: April 24, 2019, 03:27:26 AM »

Don, how would you go if you just covered the cabin area in clear Mylar and then with you superior tissue skills recover with the windows cut out.
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Don McLellan
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« Reply #127 on: April 24, 2019, 12:25:38 PM »

That is a great idea Dave!  Certainly will give it some thought.
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Don McLellan
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« Reply #128 on: May 01, 2019, 12:40:07 AM »

Decided to go with the balsa sheet for the nose.
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steveneill
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« Reply #129 on: May 01, 2019, 01:35:08 AM »

So good. Really fine work Don.
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Sky9pilot
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« Reply #130 on: May 01, 2019, 01:32:23 PM »

Outstanding job Don...I love the looks!!!
Tom
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« Reply #131 on: May 01, 2019, 04:03:06 PM »

Don, how would you go if you just covered the cabin area in clear Mylar and then with you superior tissue skills recover with the windows cut out.

Don, this is a great idea, matter of fact I used mylar in the passenger windows on my Piper Navajo. Just apply with permanent glue stick and use your wife's blow-dryer to shrink it.
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Don McLellan
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« Reply #132 on: May 01, 2019, 10:21:11 PM »

Thanks Steve, Tom.  And agree Crabby mylar probably is the best way to go, but...............  Still fooling around with fillets and other small things, then will probably try printing some tissue.  Also, it looks like I will have to make some balsa 3 blade props.  The printed 3 blade props I have are almost falling apart.  The blades are quite thin, and the material used for the print does not like any amount of sunlight; it becomes quite brittle.
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steveneill
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« Reply #133 on: May 01, 2019, 10:44:21 PM »

Don it would seem it's time to make your own if they are for flight. Or buy Superior Props blanks.
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Don McLellan
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« Reply #134 on: May 02, 2019, 12:31:22 AM »

Hi Steve,

Yes, agree.  Did cut out some blades and other things with my craft cutter this evening.  The blades are on the right of the pic, and the misc other parts for the props are on the left.  Hoping everything fits!  If so, will post a pic.
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steveneill
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« Reply #135 on: May 02, 2019, 12:33:17 AM »

Very good Don. That's the stuff.
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OZPAF
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« Reply #136 on: May 03, 2019, 09:29:19 PM »

Your craft cutter certainly saved some work Don! That's looking interesting.

John
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Don McLellan
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« Reply #137 on: May 04, 2019, 02:54:21 PM »

Hi John,

Yes, the craft cutter is a lot of fun to fool around with.  It can make very delicate cuts while I watch.

Don
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PaulBrad
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« Reply #138 on: May 04, 2019, 04:47:59 PM »

Don - If you decide to cut window openings in the fuselage tissue and apply it over clear Mylar, your craft cutter can be a big help. I have been using my craft cutter to cut tissue and it works really well. The key for me in getting the tissue to cut without tearing is to sandwich it between two pieces of printer paper. A challenge would be getting the tissue inside that paper sandwich positioned accurately for cutting the windows. My personal approach for doing that has been to cut the windows before printing the tissue. I find I can position a piece of tissue attached to its backing sheet very accurately in my printer once I lay down an outline print. The tissue is positioned over the outline so something like the window cut outs are positioned properly. The tissue attached to its backing sheet is then loaded into the printer using the same registration mark as was used to print the outlines. I have been very satisfied with the results when the tissue gets printed.

Paul Bradley
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steveneill
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« Reply #139 on: May 04, 2019, 05:15:30 PM »

Don if I may ask what craft cutter model do you have. I have been thinking about getting one. Thanks.
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« Reply #140 on: May 04, 2019, 07:27:20 PM »

That's clever Paul.

John
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Don McLellan
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« Reply #141 on: May 05, 2019, 01:55:58 AM »

Hi Paul,

First of all, thank you very much for the three bladed prop print files.  I had my slot car friend print them for my B-17 and they turned out perfectly, both left and right handed props.  Unfortunately, the material we used ages with time, so the props may have become a little brittle.

I hadn't thought of cutting tissue with my craft cutter!  Talk about pushing/exploring the envelope!  However, for me, my craft cutter and printer don't talk to each other, so not sure I can get things to align.  I do have some text and graphics around the front cabin windows on my B-17 tissue files, so suspect getting the craft cutter to accurately cut the tissue windows without cutting the graphics may be a stretch for me.  But will look into it.

Hi Steve,

I'm using a Silhouette Portrait (low end) craft cutter and have to say it has been quite an experience.  I LIKE IT!  If you can create a DXF file (or other acceptable file for the cutter) it is only a few key strokes away from making parts.  Just stock up on balsa, then design away.  Delicate cuts you probably wouldn't try with a knife, say 1/16" dia holes, come out perfectly, time after time after time.  (At least for me they do).  Note that with this craft cutter, the maximum depth of cut is .040" and the max length for the Portrait is 12".

Don


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PaulBrad
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« Reply #142 on: May 05, 2019, 02:19:30 PM »

Hi Paul,

..However, for me, my craft cutter and printer don't talk to each other, so not sure I can get things to align.  I do have some text and graphics around the front cabin windows on my B-17 tissue files, so suspect getting the craft cutter to accurately cut the tissue windows without cutting the graphics may be a stretch for me.  But will look into it...

Don- You really do not need to have the craft cutter and printer talk to each other. That is the reason I cut the tissue before printing. I don't need to worry about cutting the printed tissue in the exact location. By doing the cutting first and then printing, you can get really good registration. The key for me is to print the outlines of the graphics that will be printed on the backing sheet. The cut tissue can then be accurately placed on the backing sheet. By then registering the backing sheet in the printer using the same location reference marks as were used to print the backing sheet outlines, you can get a very accurate placement of the printed graphics on the cut tissue.

Paul Bradley
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Don McLellan
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« Reply #143 on: May 07, 2019, 12:06:16 AM »

Hi Paul,

Ok, will give it a try.  One issue I can see is my printer is old (actually very old and mostly worn out), and does not grab the paper to be printed with any accuracy.  Not sure if this is an issue. 

Have been fooling around with small three bladed props and I think settled on a design.  Each prop will have 16 pieces of balsa and 6 pieces of aluminum and plastic rod (uncut in the attached pic).  Plus, need the round nose 'cone' at the front of the prop and some aluminum tube through the prop for the hook wire etc.  Prop dia is approx 3.4" and will be left and right handed, over the top out.

Don

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Don McLellan
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« Reply #144 on: May 19, 2019, 08:54:48 PM »

Still trying to build some decent propellers, then decided to try printing some tissue to relieve the frustration.  The nose art is so small, it almost is invisible. 
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Don McLellan
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« Reply #145 on: May 20, 2019, 07:42:50 PM »

Just for fun, I did glue the tissue to one side of the fuse to check fit and orientation of graphics.  I wasn't too worried about wrinkles because the tissue will be removed and some new/revised printed.
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OZPAF
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« Reply #146 on: May 20, 2019, 08:01:18 PM »

Impressive Don - how else would you handle such tiny graphics?

John
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Don McLellan
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« Reply #147 on: May 20, 2019, 11:21:41 PM »

Hi John,

I'm tossing around printing a decal of the nose art, on clear decal paper, and placing it over the tissue.  If there isn't too much 'stretch' in the tissue it may add to the colour.  Maybe.  Also, as mentioned, this airplane was lost on it's first mission, and I haven't been able to find any pics etc, so, everything I've done is 'pie in the sky'.

As far as printed tissue goes, I want to move all the graphics up slightly, maybe 1/2" or so.  Right now the trailing edge of the wing root is grey rather than green, so did miss that, as well as a few other things.

D
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PaulBrad
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« Reply #148 on: May 21, 2019, 11:35:55 PM »

It sure is going to look nice when the final tissue is on the model. If the nose art had a less complicated outline, it might be possible to cut a piece of white decal paper to the outline shape. That could be applied to the tissue and allowed to dry. The image printed on clear decal paper could then be applied over the white background. I have used that approach on several models with good results. The small size and lettering over hang on your nose art would likely render that approach as not doable. Even for your craft cutter.

Paul Bradley
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Don McLellan
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« Reply #149 on: May 22, 2019, 09:23:02 PM »

Hi Paul,

I think a good idea, but as you point out, the lettering extending past the central art will be quite difficult to cut, then place a clear decal over.  I'm going to play around with making the nose art very slightly larger, which will maybe enhance the resolution of the detail. 

Don
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