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Author Topic: No-Cal P-47 Thunderbolt - BUILD  (Read 7265 times)
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outofbalance
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« on: January 25, 2008, 03:03:13 AM »

P-47 No-Cal, designed by Paul Bradley
 
This model came in at 6.1g without rubber. I’ll probably fly it on a loop of 3/32. One nice thing about building a Paul Bradley download is, you can get the art work too! In this case, two sheets for the plan and two for the art work, which I printed out on white Japanese tissue. Bradley’s site also explains how to load tissue into your printer and how to bend wet balsa using a soldering iron. The wings, stab, and fuselage area have some curves.
 
The prop on this model is seven inches long, Bradley has one as part of the download which is about six inches. Mine has blades formed on a container and the material is basswood. It’s a bit stronger than balsa. I am going to make a soda bottle prop also.
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outofbalance
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« Reply #1 on: January 25, 2008, 03:03:59 AM »

These models can be built in the three to four gram range; this model follows a 6.1g minimum weight format without rubber. So, there is room to have some parts beefed up or just bigger. Gussets are a good way to strengthen corners.
 
Bradley builds lighter. I bring this up because with a heavier model you can add extra supports such as gussets and may be a cross piece or two.
 
Try to remember not to shrink the paper; pre-shrunk paper works well. When the tissue goes through the printer, the ink turns it bumpy-that's okay.
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outofbalance
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« Reply #2 on: January 25, 2008, 03:04:49 AM »

Once the frame of the fuselage is done, add the motor stick. You might want to use a rolled stick; I found them to be about the same weight as an 'L' shaped stick. Once in place weigh the frame down for at least a day so it does not bow. We need the fuselage to be straight and the tail member to be vertical.
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outofbalance
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« Reply #3 on: January 25, 2008, 03:06:08 AM »

Steam Bending the Curved Balsa
 
I use a soldering iron to curve the sticks. Once the wood is soaked in warm water, I use the barrel of the iron and carefully run this over the wood until the bend is what you want. This takes practice! The first few times I tried this, I SMOKED THE WOOD black until nothing was left. I learned to use a 15 watt iron and use the upper part of the barrel gently, and, I also learned to add water if the wood got dry.
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Sundance12
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« Reply #4 on: January 25, 2008, 03:08:05 AM »

Hi outofbalance:
 
Now I really like the P-47 that you have been building, it looks great with the printer paint job, I will have to try that trick soon.
 
Sundance12
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outofbalance
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« Reply #5 on: January 25, 2008, 03:19:46 AM »

Tissue and Frame Work
 
Once the framing is done, I download the art work and put the parts over the art. I have not printed on tissue yet. The art work is offered in a bleed; it is bigger than the model. That's nice; it gives you wiggle room.
 
Printing to tissue is a learned experience and I will let Paul's site explain it. That is where I learned to do it.
 
when the tissue is ready to go on the model, I use glue stick on all the parts of wood that will touch the tissue. The wings are the most difficult and the stab is easiest for me.
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outofbalance
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« Reply #6 on: January 25, 2008, 03:20:45 AM »

Wings
 
I put tissue on the wings before I glue the wing panels together. When constructing the wings, I put the wing root rib on last. I lay out the leading and trailing edges, steam curve the tip and glue it in place. Then, I cut, fit and glue the ribs in, BUT NOT THE ROOT RIB. When the rest of the joints are dry, I remove the panel from the plan, cut off glue globs and sand the sticks lightly. Then I make a jig to get the dihedral correct for that panel; in the case of this model 2.25 inches. I pin the panel in place, and now add the root rib. I make sure it is glued in vertically. This will insure the dihedral accuracy. After both panels are done, I glue stick on tissue and after the tissue is dry (15 minutes), I trim the excess tissue. Then, I hike up both panels, match them together, pin down the dihedral jigs and glue the wing panels together. I pin the rib roots after gluing so they do not move. I let them sit overnight.
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outofbalance
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« Reply #7 on: January 25, 2008, 03:21:57 AM »

Assembly
 
I first glue the stab to its tail element. I put the fuselage in my hobby vice to make sure the stab is perpendicular to the fin/rudder. When completely dry, I thread the wing through the wing saddle and put the model back into the vice, this time upside down. I brace the wing at the correct position by sighting on the tail members. I brace this and let it dry completely.
 
That's about all there is to it. I make and install the prop and put the model on a balance to make sure the CG is near its intended point. I put a piece of test rubber on the plane and re-balance to make sure the CG is in the right place. Finally, it's time to fly!! Yea.
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robert mathison
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« Reply #8 on: August 01, 2008, 07:33:25 PM »

That is a great looking P-47, it should fly as good as it look's.

Bob
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outofbalance
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« Reply #9 on: August 02, 2008, 01:17:13 PM »

Hi Bob,

I got the art work from the Paul Bradley site.

Do you fly no cal stuff?

I like the simplicity; I do not have the delicate touch to fly the light models, so no cal suits me.

Lately I've been experimenting with six to seven inch props that are thinner in area.

outofbalance
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« Reply #10 on: August 06, 2008, 08:34:06 PM »

Hi OOB,

Like that t-bolt. Smiley. Haven't heard of Paul Bradley's site yet. Do you have a link?

Thanks,
John
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outofbalance
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« Reply #11 on: August 08, 2008, 11:16:50 AM »

Hi John,

Here you go. Nice site.

Outofbalance

http://www.parmodels.com/
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robert mathison
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« Reply #12 on: August 11, 2008, 08:59:54 PM »

HI Outofbalance,

Yes I try to fly no cal but my thing is P30 ,& Old Time Rubber , I could never do that kind of work such as your model.

Bob
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« Reply #13 on: August 15, 2008, 06:02:30 PM »

This is the no cal I like to play with.

Bob
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outofbalance
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« Reply #14 on: August 16, 2008, 12:25:07 AM »

Hi Robert,

I like the nice big wing; looks like a real floater. What size rubber does it like?

Outofbalance
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robert mathison
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« Reply #15 on: August 16, 2008, 06:38:37 AM »

This no cal goes best with standard 1/8 tan ll, 1& 1/2 times fus.

Bob
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« Reply #16 on: August 21, 2008, 03:35:15 PM »

Hi OOB,
Your build has finally inspired me to build one of these No-Cal models. The one chosen was the P-40. In fact the build was so easy and enjoyable that there is a Pual Bradley CU going on at my place Wink

Here are some shots of the almost completed model. Crystal clear was tested on the stab. It seems fine so the whole model will be given a light coat. Test glides are absolutely fantastic Wink. Thanks again for the inspiration.
John
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outofbalance
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« Reply #17 on: August 21, 2008, 11:07:46 PM »

Hi John,

Beautiful; is this you first attempt at printing on tissue?! Paul Bradley makes it easy on all of us.

Great.

OOB
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« Reply #18 on: August 22, 2008, 01:09:29 AM »

Hi OOB,
I have printed decal type stuff before but never the full covering. I really like it Smiley. Yes, Bradley did a great job!
John
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outofbalance
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« Reply #19 on: November 19, 2008, 01:00:13 PM »

Hi No-Cal Modelers,

This P-47 STILL flies marginally, BUT I noticed at the last meet that the wing tips were starting to rise and the tissue was drumhead tight. Oh-oh! The dreaded shrink. As I thought back through the build, I recall printing the tissue and mounting it pretty quickly- within a day or two. Then I realized I had not preshrunk the tissue. Yikes. This is a mistake.

What I did with the previous model, an FW-190, was to put the tissue on a frame, preshrink it, and then let it rest between several sheets of newsprint until I was certain it was dry. They I printed the artwork onto the tissue and let that dry for maybe a week before covering the bones of the model.

I should have done that with the T-bolt. I'll see if I can get a photograph showing the warp in the wings of T-bolt. Looks like I need to do a recover job or rebuild the wing, eh?

OOB
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« Reply #20 on: August 06, 2009, 03:52:04 PM »

I just joined this forum. I certainly do appreciate the kind words regarding the No-Cals on my web site. As you might guess I do enjoy this facet of our hobby.

The examples you are building from my plans and ink jet tissue templates look great. Seeing such nice models being built from my plans does the old heart good.

Best regards,

Paul Bradley
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« Reply #21 on: December 09, 2009, 10:10:48 PM »

Y'all might try ironing the pre-shrunk tissue just before you apply it to the frame. I forget where I first came across this tip, but I tried it on my P-80 no cal and it really worked well. The iron drives any residual moisture out of the tissue, so it is unlikely to shrink further. It also helps a lot if you do your covering on a low-humidity day, or in a very dry room. The only trick is you need to get the piece of tissue on to the structure quickly, so it doesn't have time to re-absorb moisture...

Dave
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« Reply #22 on: June 20, 2015, 11:08:55 AM »

I have more than a dozen No-Cal models now, and have loved the experience in every way, planning, designing, building, and flying. And I love the attention from my flying friends because of the pleasant flights.  Smiley

Tissue covering: Everyone probably knows this by now, but here is the method I have been using.

Preshrinking the tissue at least two times... lay it on the carpet, spray with water and let dry. Then place a pillowcase on the kitchen counter as a nice flat ironing base - much better results than an ironing board! Iron flat with a medium to low iron heat.

Printing the tissue on an inkjet printer... some folks are using color lasers but I have not done that yet. I use a VERY light coat of Krylon "Easy Tac" on a piece of bond paper to which I adhere the tissue. Then I just print it with an ordinary HP inkjet. I have recently had a very much improved tissue printing result by using the "Best" setting on the printer setup program. Very carefully remove from the backing.

That's about it. It is a practice and art to do this well, so expect to lose a several printed sheets of tissue  Embarrassed

Richard Ranney
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« Reply #23 on: June 20, 2015, 12:36:44 PM »

Thanks for inspiring the following question: Why do so few NOCALS ever get started by modelers when they haave time, material, plans up the wazoo and props and needed acessories readily availabe ? I like them fine but no one here in San Antonio,Tx remembers when we used to fly them regularly. In fact the first time I saw rubbber models flying, NOCALS were the order of the day.It was a Wittman Olds powered Tailwind in fact. The winner that day was flying his in his first ever contest. He was the most suprised of all the modelers present.
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« Reply #24 on: June 20, 2015, 06:25:28 PM »

If you fail to follow Richard Ranney's good advice about using a very light coat of spray contact cement to adhere your tissue to a backing sheet for printing, you might have difficulty later separating the two sheets. Lighter fluid (naphtha) will usually release the tissue but remember that it is lighter fluid and don't light it accidentally! Probably nearly everyone already knows that lighter fluid softens most contact cements.

Fred Rash
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