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Author Topic: Lee Model's Dr1 and Albatross (Peanuts) mid build help  (Read 5229 times)
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flydean1
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« Reply #75 on: September 11, 2017, 07:03:09 AM »

People who built flying replicas of the DR1 have reported that they had to hold constant forward stick in the air due to the built-by-the-original angle of the stabilizer.  With no adjustable pitch trim it was a beast on a long flight.

This comes from a WW-1 convention in Guntersville, AL about 20 years ago.  One guy flew his from several hundred miles away.  They gave him some sort of special award for holding all that forward stick for so long.
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Dave K
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« Reply #76 on: September 11, 2017, 10:03:03 AM »

Yes mine flys similarly........... I did also reduce the positive incidence on the tail plane from that on the plan but in any event all models have slightly different requirements.   As a mater of interest what is the size of your motor - I am using 4 strands of 1/16th about twice 'ook to peg !

On my next one I will reduce the positive incidence on the tail plane. 

I also made the rudder much closer to scale size then the Lee's plan call for.  Motor is one long loop of 1/8".
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atesus
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« Reply #77 on: January 05, 2021, 10:08:43 PM »

....

How do you preshrink tissue, is this needed? I have Esaki tissue, I understand it is actually a different material from domestic tissue. And what is bond paper? How does one prep it for its installation(both the DR1 and Albatross  seem to use a lot of bond paper on the fuselage)?

TIA,
Konrad

I too have inconsistent results and difficulties very similar to yours with smaller models (<16" w/s). After reading the entire thread, I was wondering where you ended up in your quest and what is your now preferred method for covering smaller models?

Best,
--Ates
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Konrad
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« Reply #78 on: January 07, 2021, 11:32:32 PM »

Can't say I'm really happy  about my methods.

I use Esaki tissue. (it is a wholly different material than "domestic" tissue). I pre shrink it on a shrinking frame with water. I cut it free of the frame. I adhere the Esaki with nitrate dope to the airframe then shrink it again with 70/30 Isopropyl alcohol. I think the reason for the 70/30 is to dilute the water so that it doesn't saturate the airframe allowing it to warp.

All the best,
Konrad
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Cut it twice and it's still too short!
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