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Author Topic: Rubber motor pushing stick. How to make.  (Read 1164 times)
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TheLurker
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« on: January 18, 2018, 03:54:28 PM »

I know almost all the rubber power afficionados here will know how to make a rubber motor pushing stick, but newbies won't and I when I tried to find a "how to make one" some months ago I couldn't and until I bought Don Ross' book, on Jack Plane's recommendation, I still hadn't. 

The attachment shows one way to make a stick.  I expect there are better ways.
 

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Rubber motor pushing stick. How to make.
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ZK-AUD
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« Reply #1 on: January 18, 2018, 04:21:53 PM »

Also for anyone not already using a stuffing stick I have a series of small holes drilled in the other end of the stick set at the correct length for various models.  A short length of cocktail stick goes through the hole for the appropriate model as a stopper.  This ensures that the rear bobbin or tube is exactly in line with the rear peg hole and you only have the up and down to worry about.  If you're clever you can also glue a  cross piece across the fuselage at the right height between the motor peg uprights for the stuffing stick to sit on - game over!   I now no longer have to cut a section out of the bottom of my scale models for rubber loading.
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adanjo
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« Reply #2 on: January 19, 2018, 12:17:29 AM »

This page may be a good place to know how to use a loading stick.
Aki

https://flyhaffa.com/project-of-the-month/project-of-the-month-make-your-own-stuffer-stick/
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TheLurker
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« Reply #3 on: January 19, 2018, 02:31:23 PM »

Aki,
Good point. No use knowing how to make one if you don't know how to use it.  

Ooh a depth gauge. Now what a very good idea. I will promptly steal it from ZK-AUD and market it under the Lurker Industries brand. Smiley

*clears throat*

You will see from the attachment that the Lurker Industries Industrial Espionage and Continuous Improvement Programme has developed the new KiDG (Kiwi inspired Depth Gauge) accessory for the company's world beating (such modesty) pusher/stuffer stick.  This marvellous new accessory allows the Lurker Industries design to be used with models of any nose block to motor peg distance.

Joking aside the dowel I've used has such a small diameter, 5mm,  that drilling holes in it to take cocktail stick stoppers would probably weaken it too much so a sliding bit of plastic is a reasonable alternative.  It might foul the motor slightly as it leaves the nose, but not enough to worry about.

Another minor mod. is to paint the narrow sides of the plywood carrier with some bright colour to make it easier to see through the motor peg hole when jiggling the carrier up / down.





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Hepcat
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« Reply #4 on: January 20, 2018, 09:38:47 AM »

I  made a loading stick for Indoor models a few days ago(I use the blast tube on Outdoor models.).  I should have done it years ago.  Loading motors into fragile indoor models can do more damage in a day than normal flying does in a year!
I attach a simple drawing below. I have a couple of photographs but they are too large to attach at the moment. My stick was made for a particular model. It has a stop bar that touches the nose former when the rear end is in place but it is not adjustable so thanks to ZK for suggesting the toothpicks in holes. This leads me to another comment; although it may seem natural to use a round rod a square one makes everything else easier.
 As has been said these are simple devices but I have a couple of things on mine that haven’t been mentioned so far. The first is a little balsa skid which slides over the fuselage bottom spacers instead of knocking them out!  The second is a little bit of wood like half of a boat cleat that traps the front end of the motor with a little tension on it to keep it tidy along the side of the stick.
The coffee stirrers are not a joke. I just happened to have some in my pocket from my last visit to a coffee shop.  They are strong, easier to shape than plywood and retained the curve on the cleat.
John
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John Barker UK - Will be missed by all that knew him.
gvwezel
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« Reply #5 on: May 21, 2019, 02:47:50 AM »

Hello im new here from holland but i read this topic its nice .
But why is there nobody using a tube ?
like they use in the P30 and the wakefield>
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Snaky Stringer
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« Reply #6 on: August 22, 2019, 06:34:02 PM »

I can remember some unseemly merriment at the SAMS stall years ago when I mentioned my stuffing stick. I think the term may be more American than English.
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hastf1b
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« Reply #7 on: August 23, 2019, 04:57:14 AM »

Loading stick.

Heinz
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billdennis747
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« Reply #8 on: August 23, 2019, 05:01:16 AM »

Mine uses bent wire at the end to achieve the same thing - yours is better.
I use a long stick and put marks on to suit different models. Useful for scale models where you may not be able to see clearly at the peg end
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Pete Fardell
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« Reply #9 on: August 23, 2019, 05:36:17 AM »

I use a long stick and put marks on to suit different models. Useful for scale models where you may not be able to see clearly at the peg end
I don't have different model marks on my stick as I prefer to squint awkwardly through the noseblock hole and take about a million attempts to get the rubber onto the peg. For maximum fun this is best done just after a burst motor when you're under acute time pressure not to miss your flight slot.
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OZPAF
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« Reply #10 on: August 23, 2019, 05:57:44 AM »

Torch shining through the tissue? Cheesy can't let these things stress you out! just stick a ruddy finger through the tissue and grab the rubber Cheesy

Cheers
John

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