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Author Topic: KSB disc (DT) timer  (Read 613 times)
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billdennis747
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« on: July 25, 2018, 03:00:29 AM »

Advice please. I have a new KSB DT timer. generously given to me for a project where it must be 100% reliable until the day it breaks. Unfortunately, it isn't - it stops at random. Many years ago there was an article in Aeromodeller on how to clean and care for these things. Is it likely to be dirt or something mechanical? What's the best procedure?

And if anyone has a reliable spare one lying around I'd welcome hearing from you.
Bill
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mike
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« Reply #1 on: July 25, 2018, 03:54:31 AM »

I used a product in a spray can called 'Electrolube', I think.  Gave the mech a good spraying and a good soak and then blew it dry with an air spray.  Grit is your enemy.
Then I lubricated the bearings with clock oil.  Don't use one of the 'spreading oils' like 3-in-1, you don't want oil on the gear teeth, it sticks the grit in place.

I took a sticky KSB to a watch maker once and he glanced at it through a magnifier and handed it back saying, ''It's a clockwork toy''.

I ended up using twin KSBs for DT but you must change the suspect one as soon as it shows sign's of failure.  How do I know this?  I lost an F1A in the Solent after knowing that 'timer one' was unreliable and assuming 'timer two' would be OK.

(I never throw anything away, PM sent)

I went to the M&K timers after the endless KSB troubles and then on to electronics.

Can you not go electronic?
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gossie
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« Reply #2 on: July 25, 2018, 04:06:57 AM »

Take the back off and give it a good soak and wash with 2 stroke mower fuel.
The petrol will clean it and when let to dry the oil left will lubricate it.
BUT, if it's still "sticky" TOSS it out.
I did have one a bit "sticky"  that I thought I fixed, but no nah no..........Lost my THIN MAN.........
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USch
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« Reply #3 on: July 25, 2018, 05:39:49 AM »

I used to run the timers, KSB, Graupner, Tatone and Seelig, in a soft solvent as white petrol 2 or 3 times once a year. Take it out and let dry for some hours and then a light spray of  spreading oil like WD-40.

Of course Mike is right that dust may stick to the teeth, but I always tried to avoid that any dust, sand or whatever got to the backplate of the timers. That means enclose well, box it, the mechanism of the timer because also in the fuselage there is a lot of chips and leftovers from building. And after a day of competition in a rough field give 'em an extra wash.

Urs
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ffkiwi
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« Reply #4 on: July 25, 2018, 06:54:02 AM »

Bill, Mike Woodhouse sells a drop in replacement for the KSB.....it uses a flat spiral disc rather than a slotted one-but otherwise has a similar footprint

See:        https://www.freeflightsupplies.co.uk/index.php/products/timers-d-t-fuse-etc                 [and check out item 21 on that  page]

 ChrisM
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billdennis747
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« Reply #5 on: July 25, 2018, 07:44:54 AM »


Can you not go electronic?
Thanks all. I shall take it all on board.
I need to stop two engines simultaneously and have spent months thinking it out. In the past I used KSB without a problem. Now I have electronic timers and RDT options but the mechanical timer appeals because I prefer to see a disc turning round than rely on beeps and flashes - I am very prone to finger trouble with electronics
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faif2d
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« Reply #6 on: July 25, 2018, 08:45:47 AM »

If you use pacifier, or surgical tubing pressure from one source to both motors, both motors will stop at the same time.  This is true on tee dee .049's a least.  I had a twin engine stunt ship and that worked well on that, I did just let the bladder run dry and did not stop the flow mechanically however.  The key was the motors would go dead lean as the pressure went away and at least at that size motor both motors could run from one source without problems.
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billdennis747
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« Reply #7 on: July 25, 2018, 09:04:48 AM »

Interesting - I've never run a Mills 75 on pressure! I suspect they would carry on running regardless
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