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Author Topic: PZL Wilga for .5cc diesel  (Read 8429 times)
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Pete Fardell
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« Reply #75 on: January 13, 2019, 02:00:27 PM »

Looks great, Chris. Every inch a Wilga!
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vtdiy
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« Reply #76 on: January 13, 2019, 03:28:48 PM »

It's really an amzing looking plane!
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DHnut
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« Reply #77 on: January 13, 2019, 04:14:55 PM »

Chris,
       The model is looking really nice. It is good that you are paying attention to engine cooling and ensuring the engine compartment does not fill with exhaust fumes. How large is your cooling air exit?
 Reingestion of exhaust gas really kills performance. It may be worth looking at an intake pipe into the engine to ensure clean air. Stan had this issue with a Mills 1.3 in a larger Auster that was cured this way.
Ricky
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Squirrelnet
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« Reply #78 on: January 13, 2019, 04:30:04 PM »

Thanks Pete and Vtdiy.

Ricky the outlet is slightly larger than the intake so hopefully it will work. Thanks for the heads up about excess exhaust gasses worth thinking about. The engine is a side port too with a rear venturi which could make matters worse
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Squirrelnet
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« Reply #79 on: January 20, 2019, 01:04:04 PM »

I didn't manage a huge amount on the Wilga this weekend but it is atleast now in primer and sanded , it still needs a few bits filling with light weight filler to fill the grain but not far off getting the airbrush out.

 The undercoat was from white enamel primer from Halfords in a rattle can which seems to work well as a base coat. I'll probably add some paper undercarriage fairings between the fuselage and the undercarriage legs before applying the top coat.

 I kept the fuselage sheet sections I cut out for the side windows so they can serve as easily installed masking for spraying, I just stuck some masking tape to the inside to hold them in place

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« Last Edit: January 20, 2019, 01:30:39 PM by Squirrelnet » Logged
Squirrelnet
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« Reply #80 on: January 26, 2019, 12:51:32 PM »

I was hoping to spray some top coat on the fuselage today but, as ever, there's things I've forgotten to do  Sad

First job was to make up the paper fairing for the top of the undercarriage. I stiffened it with some thin Cyno once it was stuck on. It's only glued to the undercarriage leg so should allow some movement on a hard arrival.

I'd even missed a bit of sheeting underneath the centre section  Embarrassed so all the masking had to come off so I could get to it. It did give a chance to put all together again which makes me more determined to get some yellow paint on it tomorrow.

Looking at the rear shot the Aileron/flap section will need multiple extra mounting points to keep the aileron gap even, the 'smile' its showing at the moment will have to be avoided  Cool

I've added more filler to fill the grain and a final caot of undercoat where needed so it's out with airbrush tomorrow  Smiley
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Squirrelnet
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« Reply #81 on: January 27, 2019, 12:49:12 PM »

The Wilga made it into my cardboard spray booth today and got its first coat of yellow top coat.

Its Humbrol Gloss Yellow thinned 50/50 with cellulose thinners and sprayed with my new cheap Chinese airbrush, which I have to say I'm quite impressed with. The spray pattern even with the larger .5mm needle and nozzle is still quite small but then my experience is more rattle can and car spraying guns so it seemed to take an age to spray the whole airframe.

The finish is even with the airbrush but it will need further coats to get a good flat colour, its still a bit patchy. I doesn't look it in the pics but it's not right at the moment.

The cowling still needs more work so I'll give it another coat of white primer before applying more yellow top coat




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Squirrelnet
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« Reply #82 on: February 02, 2019, 01:20:10 PM »

With a bit of rubbing down with wet 1200 paper and the nose re undercoated, after a lot more rubbing down,  hopefully it's out with airbrush again tomorrow. Just noticed the fin strake (?) doesn't match the photo  Undecided.... still so long as I change it before the blue goes on.

As it's nearing completion I thought I'd better check the engine out. It's a Redfin 030 TBR MkII the same type I've used in a DH60 Moth. I bought it at the last Mayfly new from Alex at Redfin and he supplied it with a black head and spinner from the 020. It fired up very easily and settled into a nice burble to run in. There's a video here. I bought a rev counter which I'm hoping will give some consistency to scale comp flights.... well the engine speed at least !!

https://youtu.be/R53bEqjhhh8


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Squirrelnet
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« Reply #83 on: February 03, 2019, 12:15:54 PM »

Well it's looking a bit more yellow. The fuselage and nose will need another coat as I had a slight reaction in the paint on a small section, which is odd. I'll let it dry and rub that bit back with 1200 wet and dry and paint again.

Not sure why it reacted its the same surface prep as the rest of the airframe...I'm wondering if it was due to not mixing the paint enough as its from another batch of 50/50 enamel paint and cellulose thinner that I mixed up. Any thoughts out there ? see pic two

Edit - As it drying the effect is reducing. I'll still rub back and respray. Is it just too much paint and extreme orange peel ?
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billdennis747
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« Reply #84 on: February 03, 2019, 12:34:01 PM »

Well it's looking a bit more yellow. The fuselage and nose will need another coat as I had a slight reaction in the paint on a small section, which is odd. I'll let it dry and rub that bit back with 1200 wet and dry and paint again.

Not sure why it reacted its the same surface prep as the rest of the airframe...I'm wondering if it was due to not mixing the paint enough as its from another batch of 50/50 enamel paint and cellulose thinner that I mixed up. Any thoughts out there ? see pic two

Edit - As it drying the effect is reducing. I'll still rub back and respray. Is it just too much paint and extreme orange peel ?
I've had this occasionally when thinning with cellulose. When you think about it, a second coat of cellulose on enamel is asking for trouble. Yes, usually too much paint in slow-drying conditions. Less time between coats seems to help
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Squirrelnet
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« Reply #85 on: February 03, 2019, 01:08:40 PM »

Thanks for the info Bill. The lighter coats elsewhere didn't react so once its dry and rubbed down I'll try again with multiple light coats
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vintagemike
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« Reply #86 on: February 04, 2019, 05:23:16 AM »

Possibly the reaction is due to the first coat not properly dry before putting the second coat on top. reduced drying (evaporation of solvents) in cold (damp) conditions. this will happen even with similar materials, not just a mix of enamel and cellulose. The reason is that air drying solvents dry from the outside (top) of the layer of paint. This inhibits the drying/curing of whats underneath. Sorry if I,m trying to teach Granny to suck eggs but it can be overlooked 
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Squirrelnet
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« Reply #87 on: February 04, 2019, 04:15:44 PM »

Thanks Mike. I think trying to put too much on in damp conditions was most likely the cause...but I will mix the paint more throughly next time just in case
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Squirrelnet
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« Reply #88 on: February 09, 2019, 01:26:19 PM »

A rub down with a bit of wet 1200 wet and dry paper and a bit of a respray and the reacted part of the paint is sorted. It didn't happen at all this time but then it was warmer, drier and I applied multiple thin coats.... and mixed the paint for longer

 So thats enough yellow...  finally... this finishing business takes forever... blue next

I notice in the 2nd pic the fuselage strengthening strakes/mouldings don't look as straight as I thought they were... hmmm must be lens distortion ;-)
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Monz
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« Reply #89 on: February 09, 2019, 02:22:21 PM »



... this finishing business takes forever...





Doesn't it just?

That is looking every bit a Wilga now. Lovely stuff!

How are you finding the spray box's effectiveness?
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Squirrelnet
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« Reply #90 on: February 09, 2019, 02:32:03 PM »

Thanks Monz

The spray box is a godsend. Previous spraying of models has involved masking off the entire workshop and still ending up with more on me than the model !

I have sprayed, both with the new airbrush I bought and aerosol cans ( for the primer) and it has made spraying much less of a coloured fog type of ordeal. I still spray enamel thinned with cellulose with a face mask with organic vapour filter but it has become a much more pleasant affair and I no longer need to mask off everything else in the workshop with dust sheets. So all in all a tenner well spent.
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Squirrelnet
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« Reply #91 on: February 10, 2019, 11:53:42 AM »

Managed to get some blue paint on it today. There's still the stripe to do down the side of the fuselage but having only put a final coat on it yesterday I thought I'd leave that for next weekend

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skycafe
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« Reply #92 on: February 10, 2019, 12:54:34 PM »

Stunning, great job!
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« Reply #93 on: February 11, 2019, 07:39:56 AM »

Very neat and realistic. Nice effort SN.
It'll be interesting to see how it flies with slats and flaps.

John
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Squirrelnet
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« Reply #94 on: February 12, 2019, 02:48:31 AM »

Thanks John and Skycafe

Quote
It'll be interesting to see how it flies with slats and flaps

Indeed. I think gaps the gaps all equal will be key

Chris
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DHnut
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« Reply #95 on: February 12, 2019, 04:47:23 AM »

Chris,
         If it flies anything like the Zaunkoneig it will be a hoot, with the stall turning into nose over and picking up speed again. The trick is definitely maintaining equal gaps. Your will definitely be more visible and have lots of presence. I have just started repainting the trim on the Comper wing that has been recovered and have decided the pin stripe is too small to replicate well at about .020 wide.
Ricky   
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yagua
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« Reply #96 on: February 12, 2019, 09:41:50 AM »

 Shocked Shocked Shocked Shocked
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Squirrelnet
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« Reply #97 on: February 16, 2019, 12:33:43 PM »

Quote
If it flies anything like the Zaunkoneig it will be a hoot

 Hoping for a stable flyer Ricky !!!! . The wing section on the Zaunkönig looks very similar in section so maybe not  Shocked. I have a Bowden Meteorite which has tip slats that is very stable but perhaps my optimism is miss placed. Still the grass is starting to grow so I'll find out soon ;-).

Hope the Comper is going well, .020" sounds too fine to me too.

Added the side stripe today after much masking with frog tape.

For the reg markings I plan to use painted water slide decal paper cut out into letters.

 I was thinking of using clear paper or would the solid backing of white decal paper be better ? any thoughts out there Huh

I'm planning to spray the decal paper with enamel thinned with Cellulose thinner as I have some matt black paint and lots of thinners...actually I wonder if the cellulose will react with the decal paper... better check that out first... Hope  I can as I want to the use the same technique on my Hawker Tomtit which is the next victim in my cardboard spray booth

Chris

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Monz
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« Reply #98 on: February 16, 2019, 03:20:58 PM »

If you're going to spray the decal paper, either will be fine. I do find the clear to be a bit stiffer and less prone to folding under itself when applying. If you're going to print, then the white.

I dissolved the decals on the Fokker with cellulose thinners, it ate it like it was nothing, so I'd spray a test piece first. It might not eat it if diluted with paint and has time to flash off, unlike the puddles of it that I was using.

PS with all those 'stringers' on the fus, the decal will narrow as it goes over them, so allow some extra in the height of the letters when doing them.
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Squirrelnet
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« Reply #99 on: February 16, 2019, 04:24:32 PM »

Thanks Monz

I'll try a test piece. I hadn't thought of the stringers squashing the letters  Undecided.  I'll adjust accordingly

Chris
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