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Author Topic: P-30 Spitfire wing questions  (Read 3370 times)
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flydean1
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« Reply #75 on: March 10, 2019, 03:20:37 PM »

Most fabric stores stock the stuff.  May be in sewing/craft section of WallyWorld.  I got mine from the local Jo Ann fabric store.
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Crabby
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« Reply #76 on: March 10, 2019, 07:00:00 PM »

Hi Randoloid,

I tried all the fabric stores in my area, and none had it on the shelf. Joann could order it in for me but I can do that... go on Amazon. It might be in the fab stores in your area but not mine, I hate Walmart safaris so I didn’t try there. Amazon had it here in two days.
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randoloid
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« Reply #77 on: March 12, 2019, 08:13:00 AM »

Hi Randoloid,

I tried all the fabric stores in my area, and none had it on the shelf. Joann could order it in for me but I can do that... go on Amazon. It might be in the fab stores in your area but not mine, I hate Walmart safaris so I didn’t try there. Amazon had it here in two days.

Wanted to share that when searching online do not search for "Velcro Adhesive"  Instead, use the search term "VELCRO Brand - Adhesive" and avoid scrolling through hundred Velcro double sided tape  products. 
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Crabby
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« Reply #78 on: March 12, 2019, 06:41:44 PM »

I got itchy to start covering today so I took the day off. I began with the stab and it was a 3 handed affair using the velcro adhesive. Plus this plane is not a real good guinea pig for a new process, so after 2 tries I went back to the glue stick, and got a pretty good result. Just hit the perimeter then go easy with the tack iron. It is a really good idea to let the glue stick set up for a hour or so, so it doesn't let go with the heat and flub the dub. I am looking at some Reno racing Spits for a color idea maybe. I am also leaning towards all orange.
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Red Buzzard
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« Reply #79 on: March 12, 2019, 07:17:06 PM »

Yo Crabby,

Nice effort. I've not used glue stick but the results tell. If the Velcro didn't work out you may have been too eager to get on with it. It really does need time to dry or the mylar just drags on it as you adjust your sheet. Or...it just didn't fit your style. Either way the stab looks fine.

Bill
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OZPAF
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« Reply #80 on: March 12, 2019, 08:35:00 PM »

Very neat looking covering on the stab Crabby.

John
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Don McLellan
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« Reply #81 on: March 12, 2019, 10:49:09 PM »

Hi Crabby,

Somewhere in an earlier post there is a pic of your stab, but for some reason all the curved lines just didn't register with me.  I think very intriguing work!  Also is the second pic upside down.   I didn't think you lived in Ozz..........haha............

Don
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Crabby
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« Reply #82 on: March 13, 2019, 12:34:36 AM »

Good Gravy. Well Well Well. It took three tries to get that then I flub the pic! I am gonna have to get good with velcro glue. I think I messed up by putting it on the interior structure, then when I did the shrinking it went all goofy. I felt like I didn't have enough hands when I was applying it.... anyway the glue stick was easier for me, it really does the job. Sorry guys for the upside-downer! That stab was a brain-buster to build for some reason. Like a Fokker wing... flat on the top, and tapered bottom. The wing has curved turbulator spar... all those curves make up for the boxy fuse.
« Last Edit: March 13, 2019, 12:47:40 AM by Crabby » Logged

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Crabby
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« Reply #83 on: March 13, 2019, 10:45:27 AM »

Good am Bill,
No I waited till the Velcro Glue was perfectly dry. The problem was that I was using the dope technique where you fasten the perimeter, then when everything is good and tight you tack down the interior members. I was getting stress wrinkles everywhere. The first try I just figured I was being ham-fisted with the tacking iron, which I was. Second try the same only more careful. The third try was after another glue stick test, and I found out not to touch the iron to the film just barely skim the surface and that did the trick. The heat gun was way too much. But, like everything new I am on the learning curve! The thing about the glue stick is you gotta let it set up for a good hour or so, so the heat from the iron won't loosen the hold as the membrane shrinks.....whatever! Shocked Sad Angry Smiley Cheesy Grin Roll Eyes
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Crabby
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« Reply #84 on: April 24, 2019, 08:48:50 AM »

Here is everything all covered. One thing about using the glue stick....make sure you get the one that says "permanent" right on the label. This glue activates with heat also. I also found this whole process needs about 3/4 total heat using the iron I have. Boy did it ever work! If you are a tight, no wrinkles covering nut, you will like this route. All up weight so far (all covered) is 38g. I got 12g left for the prop, spinner, DT rigging and rubber. My next dilemma is what color...? I am tired of the military thing, and I don't want to gild the lily with a lot of graphic nonsense. I will probably go for a one color bright floral spray. The wing shrinking gave me more washout than I originally was going for. What effect will that make?  Sad Angry Smiley Grin Roll Eyes

I should add that the velcro cement works really well too. I just found the glue stick to be quicker. It is, however heavier!
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« Last Edit: April 24, 2019, 10:08:35 AM by Crabby » Logged

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« Reply #85 on: April 24, 2019, 08:30:32 PM »

Very nice!

John
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Red Buzzard
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« Reply #86 on: April 25, 2019, 11:17:53 AM »

Hi Crabby,

Very nice results on the mylar. As I have read, washout on a Spit is a good thing, but I have no idea about how much. My experience has shown that lower heat on the "tightening" phase can help reduce the tension in the end product. I know irons can be quite different so it's always a learning experience. I try to use only that temp that will just begin to get the wrinkles to vanish. As you probably noticed, too much can just make the whole problem go away! Smiley Like poof!

Way to go,

Bill

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Crabby
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« Reply #87 on: April 26, 2019, 11:52:20 AM »

Good am Bill and John. the starboard wing has a noticeably greater amount of washout due to the mylar tightening....I am going to let it ride til I test glide. If I notice any bad habits I will deal with it by twisting the opposite way while I heat with the heat gun. This is a tentative exercise since I already burned a hole in the stab on the first try....unless somebody has a better idea! Thanks for looking in on me guys!
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randoloid
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« Reply #88 on: April 26, 2019, 05:21:37 PM »

Great work Crabby,  I seem to have the same issue with controlling washout and warp with mylar. 

I have one wing that was built for high wind / rough conditions that held up great,  my super light competition wing... not so much.

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Crabby
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« Reply #89 on: April 28, 2019, 10:48:39 AM »

I was so turned on by the way the mylar thing worked that I had to spray a coat of paint on the Spit. Now I am not going to lie and say that I didn't have to be physically separated from the pre-wired paradigm that Spits look best in WW2 camo. The Spitfire is an attractive beauty that looks ravishing before she puts on her make up! Soo I am gonna stick with the plan to keep this one simply-stated. Enough BS! I am making myself ill!  Still a ways to go, but the paint gave me a Mojo uprising, so today I am gonna hit the pegs for wing mounts, stab mounts and DT rigging. Boring stuff but I really want to see this thing fly soon! Oh did I mention I still have 12 grams to play with before the weight gets superfluous? Its not fair how the pics draw the eye to all the fuzzy holidays on the perimeter of the plane. I trimmed the excess with a broken off Treet carbon double edge. Its so sharp I was unconsciously carving up the framework.
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OZPAF
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« Reply #90 on: April 29, 2019, 09:22:17 PM »

Hey we are waiting to see it fly as well Crabby. Get cranking Smiley
Your yellow bird looks great - our magpies would love it (they attack yellow models particularly).

John
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Crabby
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« Reply #91 on: May 03, 2019, 11:38:46 PM »

Good evening all!
I ordered a new Geezer prop assembly the other day, only to discover while rummaging through all my prop s#!t that I already owned (2)! Angry. The question I have is as follows: look at the plan, it shows what looks to be ample (built in)down and right thrust already... am I adding a redundancy by using a geezer assembly? gilding the lily? comments please! You can see I already managed to fit a crockett hook to the assembly. This is really the first time I EVER took the time to fully contemplate this ingenious contraption. If it wasn't just a freewheel contraption for toy planes Orv Olm would be up for a Nobel Prize. This plane is going to be a contraption with the geezer anatomy PLUS a DT. These are two arenas I have never ventured into. I have been a standard ramp style freewheeling guy with a standard Peck thrust button...and I have lost a few nice planes because I was too mystified by the dethermalizer to try one. OK enough about me.
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LASTWOODSMAN
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« Reply #92 on: May 04, 2019, 12:18:46 AM »

     Hi Crabby.   I have been following your Spitfire build.   It does look very nice and light.   Shocked  I'm looking forward to seeing how your additions all work out.   I think I just ordered one of those Gizmo Geezers, so I'm also interested to see how you make yours work.   Yeah, I really like those Crocket Hooks too.

LASTWOODSMAN
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« Reply #93 on: May 04, 2019, 06:20:42 AM »

Well I can only believe that you will enjoy have the fine tuning ability of the GG to really get the best out of this model. Certainly not a waste!

John
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flydean1
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« Reply #94 on: May 04, 2019, 10:24:57 AM »

Your down and right thrust is a good starting point.  Agree about The Nobel Prize.  I put a GG on all my rubber models ever since I bought my first one.  At your flying weight, your Yellar Spit will need a DT.  Don't even hand glide without it set.
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Crabby
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« Reply #95 on: May 04, 2019, 10:54:58 AM »

Heard loud n' clear flydean....I have all the posts and loops set up for the DT I am just waiting on the "viscous" timer. On the plan they show a fuse timer up in the canopy area...I will assume this is the best place to  mount the viscuos one?
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flydean1
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« Reply #96 on: May 04, 2019, 10:12:49 PM »

I typically like to mount mine fairly well forward to get more weight in the nose, but on your model that isn't necessary.  It needs to be easily accessible when you are trying to get a launch off with a fully wound motor in one hand and the model in the other.  I tend to put mine on the side and run the DT line back to the stab TE.

I keep a wire thru a hole to lock the timer arm in place with a "Remove Before Flight" tag on it so I won't launch it with a locked DT.  Don't ask. Cry
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Crabby
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« Reply #97 on: May 12, 2019, 03:00:25 PM »

Empty weight 54 grams. 10 grams of 3/16, one loop 44" seems like (if I braid it), a short powerful prop run, the motor running out quickly, getting the plane up there and out of the ground air, hopefully for good long glide home. Unbraided seems like a more steady constant climb (longer motor run),  I think I see the immediate need for a torque meter.
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