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Author Topic: Steaming Doped Surfaces  (Read 271 times)
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OneArm
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« on: March 12, 2019, 11:49:51 AM »

Hi All,

Any experience with steaming out warps from doped/Kryloned surfaces? Just steam, pin, re-dope and pin again? Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks everyone
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billdennis747
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« Reply #1 on: March 12, 2019, 02:26:24 PM »

Hi All,

Any experience with steaming out warps from doped/Kryloned surfaces? Just steam, pin, re-dope and pin again? Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks everyone
Plenty. Don´t know what Krylon is but for dope - do as you say, provided there isn´t so much dope the tissue won´t slacken. In desperation, wrapping with layers of towel then pour boiling water and leave for 5 mins. That does the trick but can cloud the finish
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tom arnold
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« Reply #2 on: March 12, 2019, 03:00:54 PM »

If the water/steam method doesn't work or does not hold the new warp, I have airbrushed (note I say airbrush) on coat of slow-drying lacquer thinner (found at auto paint shops). This  softens the Krylon and relaxes the covering much like water but locks the new twist into place when it dries. Needless to say, you may screw up a painted finish depending upon what the top paint is (enamel, acrylic, decals, etc.) and you must never touch the surface while damp and before it dries well. It is a risky technique but if you have nothing else, it can work. (I never use dope anymore as once Krylon dries it does not shrink...a good characteristic)
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OneArm
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« Reply #3 on: March 12, 2019, 03:07:59 PM »

Thanks,

If the warps aren't too bad, could I just apply another coat of Krylon and pin?
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tom arnold
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« Reply #4 on: March 12, 2019, 05:35:25 PM »

You could, but the bottom coat may or may not soften enough to relax the tissue. Krylon is pretty good at locking in tissue paper. A Krylon painted wing still can warp but that is usually due to heat from the sun or indoor heat source shrinking the tissue and overpowering the Krylon coat. At any rate, if the top coat doesn't soak down and soften the bottom coat, now you have a warp really locked in. I could be wrong on that but my move would be to use the lacquer thinner and then put on a second coat if needed. It sounds like your wing is not color painted?

I might add that the more Krylon coats you put on, the more "locked" the tissue is but, like dope, it adds weight easily..
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faif2d
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« Reply #5 on: March 12, 2019, 06:38:01 PM »

On some of my control line models I just treated the doped paper or silk as though it was monocoat.  I used an iron, heated the covering and then twisted the wing to where I wanted it to stay.  After it cooled it stayed put.  One model I did this with was an old Polish model that used no balsa.  Mine did not use balsa either and the thin basswood trailing edges warped rather badly.  I dewarped the model out at Tuscon for the old timer stunt meet and it flew quite nicely until the Russian diesel ran out of fuel while inverted.  Fun days!
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I used to like painting with dope but now I can't remember why!    Steve Fauble
OneArm
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« Reply #6 on: March 13, 2019, 09:24:36 AM »

Thanks All,

These are just sport rubber planes I want to salvage. The warps are not bad. At the worst, I'll need to rebuild a few stabilizers
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MKelly
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« Reply #7 on: March 13, 2019, 09:46:30 AM »

One-arm,

During my January fleet maintenance session I found warped stabs on a couple models.  These had been sealed with dope.  I misted water over them till they were dripping wet, pinned them down flat and left them that way for four or five days.  Several months later they are still dead-flat.

Mike
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OneArm
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« Reply #8 on: March 13, 2019, 10:52:30 AM »

Thanks, I'll give that a go. Always something new to learn with this hobby!
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