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Author Topic: OSPREY 20" SPORTS GLIDER Vintage Model Company laser cut kit  (Read 3189 times)
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LASTWOODSMAN
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« Reply #50 on: February 15, 2019, 11:27:09 PM »

OSPREY  20"  SPORTS GLIDER   Vintage Model Company laser cut kit

     Time to work on the laminations for the NOSE BLOCK, the NOSE PLUG, and the FRONT END FUSE FORMERS.    I plan to use the  fifteen sixty-fourth  15/64"  drill bit,  and the  3/8" square Balsa Stick to align the holes when gluing the laminations on top of each other, and use clear Scotch tape and waxed paper to prevent the wrong things from being glued, and make a plate to hold the drill bit and Balsa Stick, while the parts are pinned down tight to dry.

Pic #1     1405    The three sets of lamination parts are laid out.  Now to figure out a mounting plate to hold the drill bit and square Balsa Stick mounting shafts.

Pic #2     1407     I found a good reason to pull out some sharp wood carving chisels -  to gouge out a  3/8" square "Mortise" hole in the mounting plank.  What a pleasure to actually chisel off some nice wood chips instead of always sanding.   Smiley

Pic #3     1410     The drill bit and square balsa stick  are now mounted on plates and pinned down and squared up, ready for stacking and gluing.   One of the carving chisels is a right angle square cutting edge for getting into those corners.    
      
Pic #4     1411     Here the small pieces are getting staked and glued and pinned down to dry.

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« Reply #51 on: February 16, 2019, 10:27:01 AM »

OSPREY  20"   SPORTS GLIDER   Vintage Model Company laser cut kit

Pic #1     1413     After drying overnight, it is time to see how they turned out.   Mandrake and Bloodroot remove the pins.

Pic #2     1416     M and  B slide the dried Front End Fuse laminated Assy off of the square balsa stick mounting shaft and the Nose Plug Assy from the drill bit.

Pic #3     1420     M and B now start on the last set of laminated parts -  the seven pieces for the nose block.    NB6 and NB7 are glued and mounted and pinned down to dry.    The two completed assemblies are on the black styrofoam pad on the left.

Pic #4     1421     Three layers each, with the grain alternating on each layer with each piece laser cut with a light "T" - when all these Ts are lined up at the top of the laminating stack, all of the grains will be alternating, because it was laser cut that way.

Pic #5     1422     M and B use a Jeweler's File and very minimal sanding to get the fit nice and snug.

LASTWOODSMAN
Richard
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« Reply #52 on: February 16, 2019, 05:34:35 PM »

I see that your supervisor, Trapper is keeping an eye on things. Smiley M & B are progressing well on the build.

John
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« Reply #53 on: February 18, 2019, 12:40:07 AM »

OSPREY  20"   SPORTS GLIDER   Vintage Model Company laser cut kit

     All of the lams have dried and it is now time for a test fit.    The round holes in the nose block lams,  creates a space in which to add modelling clay weight to balance the model.    A very clever idea to incorporate into the kit.

Pic #1     1424     The laminated assembly so far with the nose plug glued on

Pic #2     1425     The other view

Pic #3     1426     Here Bloodroot tests the fit of the three Front End Fuse lams (F1 F2 and F3),   tests the square hole of these lams, with the Nose Plug.

Pic #4     1431     Mandrake - "Perfect fit Blood".   Bloodroot - "And all of the "Ts" are on top lined up!!"

Pic #5     1433     While Bloodroot lines him up, Mandrake carefully sets on the last two Nose Block pieces, NB1 and NB2,  that are already glued to each other.

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Richard
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« Reply #54 on: February 18, 2019, 12:45:43 PM »

OSPREY  20"   SPORTS GLIDER   Vintage Model Company laser cut kit

      The Noseblock is completed and test fitted.    I am now really looking forward to sanding a nice erodynamic glider profile into this Noseblock.   Cool

Pic #1     1434     Test fit of Noseblock on the fuse sides.

Pic #2     1435     Underside view.

Pic #3     1436     Noseblock is unplugged - you can see the round hole where the balancing clay goes into.

Pic #4     1437     Another view.

Pic #5     1439     All of the last of the parts remaining, are laid out on the white Craft Board.

Pic #6     1443     Mandrake and Bloodroot discuss the next set of parts removed from the white Ross Craft Board.

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Richard
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« Reply #55 on: February 20, 2019, 02:49:35 AM »

OSPREY  20"   SPORTS GLIDER   Vintage Model Company laser cut kit

     Mandrake and Bloodroot receive orders for a request of a personalized color scheme, and to design a feathered wing somewhat along the lines of a Gull wing, and to paint up an example for the client to consider.
     No Printer, no ink.    Mandrake does it the old fashioned way.

Pic #1     Gull flying.

Pic #2     WING SHAPES -  five wing examples showing the seven feather types in different colors.

Pic #3     WING SHAPES 2   Sketch of 4 wing types

Pic #4     WING SHAPE BEST  High Speed wing and Active Soaring wing

Pic #5     1444     Mandrake pulls up the above image onto the Computer screen,  tapes a printer sheet to it,  and proceeds to trace the two wing sketches.

pic #6     1446     Mandrake then tapes this sheet to the window and traces another wing.

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Richard
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« Reply #56 on: February 20, 2019, 02:52:05 AM »

OSPREY  20"   SPORTS GLIDER   Vintage Model Company laser cut kit
con't from above.

Pic #1     1447       Two wing sketches,  wing balsa frame, left wing outline and feathering.
   
Pic #2     1448     Closeup of three wings - the third wing being a combination of the two above.

Pic #3     1454     Mandrake and Blooroot color in the scheme.

Pic #4     1452     Closeup of the color scheme.  So far ...

Pic #5     1455     Straight on shot of color scheme.

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« Reply #57 on: February 20, 2019, 04:55:49 AM »

Are you going to print the tissue Richard? I like the colours of the soaring wing but the other shape fits the wing better.

John
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« Reply #58 on: February 20, 2019, 05:39:20 AM »

Wow, Richard! Just, Wow!!
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« Reply #59 on: February 20, 2019, 10:42:29 PM »

OSPREY  20"   SPORTS GLIDER   Vintage Model Company laser cut kit

     Hi John - we are going to use the 'Combination Wing' pattern, and here it is colored up with a small color change to see what it looked like.  I would like to print the wing pattern onto the tissue, but my printer is fried and it has no ink anyway.  Undecided 
     We thought we would try tissue over tissue -  using a base white tissue, and cutting out and gluing the little colored tissue panel pieces, and glue these on top of the white tissue pre shrunk, and then ink in the black feather lines after drying.   Waaaay too hard.    Angry

Pic #1     1457     Mandrake and Bloodroot traced the other wing on the window, by folding the paper down the middle, over.  The "combination" wing is colored in,  switching the orange for the light brown color, and vice versa.

Pic #2     1462     M and B tried in vain to cut out the individual colored tissue pieces (upper right), to no avail .... and takes way too long ...    Tongue

     Then we thought of turning it into a "paper model" by way of just cutting out the colored wings on the printer paper and just glueing that to the wing frames.    But the wing frame weighs only   2.50 grams,  and to cover one side of the wing with printer paper weighs  2.12 grams.   Shocked  Shocked

     Oh - and I have an open flight theory question about the lift from the primaries that are separated in pic #2,   WING SHAPES,  in reply #55 above,  The "Passive Soaring Wings"   -   'long primary feathers with long gaps in between.   These slots help the bird take advantage of columns of rising hot air, allowing it to soar'.   How do these slots enable lift ?   Huh

     Hi Dan - thanks for the comment.   Unfortunately, the color design may only just look good on paper - and is probably just wishful thinking - getting it on the glider is another thing ...    Huh   I am open to suggestions for this color scheme,  in light of a lack of a working printer.   Maybe just a simpler design, and of course, lose those cluttering feather quill black lines...  we are also contemplating orange on top of the fuse, to match and blend in with, the secondary feather coverts (little feathers) ...

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« Reply #60 on: February 20, 2019, 11:11:25 PM »

Richard I was wondering if you had considered colouring the tissue directly with the markers or even crayons? You could use your sketches under the tissue as a guide. The tissue would need to be taped down firmly and the colours applied very gently - perhaps on the inside of the covering?
Might be worth a small test.
Quote
'long primary feathers with long gaps in between.   These slots help the bird take advantage of columns of rising hot air, allowing it to soar'.   How do these slots enable lift ?

I think the action of the slots would help to keep the airflow on the top of the wing attached by injecting some high energy air from the bottom of the wing to the top, via the slots. The location, size and shape of the slots would be critical. Thus the overall drag of the wing would be reduced - particularly at high angles of attack which would be higher than normal as well with a higher corresponding lift coefffecient, and the climb rate increased. Even if they remained open the slots would have little effect at high speed.
Modellers have tried variations on this using small holes on the bottom of the wing and exit holes towards the rear on the top with tissue covered wings.
However as the location is critical and airfoil dependent - most have stayed with either forward placed turbulators or a series of small turbulators as specified by Martin Presnell which he named invigorators.

John
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« Reply #61 on: February 21, 2019, 03:22:45 PM »

OSPREY  20"  SPORTS GLIDER   Vintage Model Company laser cut kit

     Thanks so much for the tip John.    Smiley    I placed a sheet of  0.005"  (five thou )  clear plastic sheet down over the wing tracing, and then I put on a white sheet of tissue on top of that.
     I started tracing with the thick pen on the leading edge only and the ink was really running from the edges of the thick line of ink.   Then we switched to the 0.5 mm Studio Gel pen for a much cleaner thinner line.  Then I got out the four colored markers and filled in the areas.   The ink ran through to the bottom of the tissue.  You can see the smudges left on the clear plastic sheet, that will not wipe off with bathroom tissue and water.   As I was coloring with the marker, I could see the ink from the marker pooling under the tissue and on top of the clear plastic, and running around.  There are also many wrinkles in the tissue, and I am wondering how it will shrink and/or run the ink when I spray mist it to dry.   
     It looks very promising though.  I just need to do more testing.   I must also buy three more light, medium, and brown markers.   Of course they will run out anytime now ...   Undecided
Here are the two latest pics.

Pic #1     1463     First sheet of tissue with the wing pattern colored in.   
Pic #2     1464    Close up.  You can see the smudges on the clear plastic sheet

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« Reply #62 on: February 21, 2019, 11:37:48 PM »

OSPREY  20"   SPORTS GLIDER   Vintage Model Company laser cut kit

     The only way to stop the ink from flowing through the tissue into a puddle, is to have a sheet of printer paper (not clear plastic), on the other side to absorb the excess ink.
      The color scheme is working out OK.   I just have to decide on a few details more, and make two good, top and bottom, colored tissue patterns for the wing.

Pic #1     1468     The two colored tissue practise Wing panels at the top are done.  The one on the left has got the thicker runnier ink, and the one on the right has the thin ink.   The top of the wing,  at the center fuse  section, will be orange also. 

Pic #2     1467     Here is the wing frames sitting on top of the two painted tissue panels.

Pic #3     1469     Here is what it looks like with both tissue panels on the top and bottom of the fight wing frame.

Pic #4     1471     This is the test fit and look, with both tissue panels held up to the light.    The prime objective now, this spring, is to get a good close up pic of this  20"  OSPREY Glider, in the air, with the sun shining through.    It is time to figure out the tail color pattern also,  and the pilot mount ...   Smiley

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« Reply #63 on: February 22, 2019, 12:07:51 AM »

The sun shining through those wings will look impressive.

What will you do with the fuselage? Light brown tissue?

John
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« Reply #64 on: February 22, 2019, 12:43:16 AM »

     Hi John -  yes, that is what I am leaning towards on the fuse sides and bottom - tan or light brown tissue.  The top of the fuse will be the same white tissue painted orange with the ink marker, and the fin/rudder a slightly darker orange tissue, and the stab will be golden rod yellow tissue with some sort of  feathering for the narrow tail.
     All of the framework, especially in the cockpit area, will be stained a suitable color.  The nose block may have alternating dark and light stain laminations ...

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Richard
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« Reply #65 on: February 22, 2019, 02:03:51 AM »

  Hi Richard
                  Well done, I've missed this development so it was good to follow it through, look forward to seeing the finished model.
                       Dave
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« Reply #66 on: February 25, 2019, 10:43:40 PM »

OSPREY  20"   SPORTS GLIDER  Vintage Model Company laser cut kit

     Thanks for the nice comment Dave.  I'm starting to like the color and design more and more myself.   Cheesy
     Trying to get the color scheme just right was a lot of work.    Huh  Changes were made along the way, and I think the alula and scapular (tertial?) feathers are now not so terrible looking.   We were comparing thin and thick outlines and colored a few up to see what they look like.

Pic #1     1475     This is the setup for tracing the final outlines on the wing tissue panels.   Here the white tissue (combination wing) is stretched and taped out FLAT and TIGHT (just like OZPAF John suggested),  over the wing plan.   There are three more tissue panels in the roll waiting for thin black ink tracing.

Pic #2     1477     Mandrake "Good job Blood".  Freshly traced  0.5 mm thin wing outline, right over the colored "combination" paper wing.   M and B used ample tissue for this job.   The blue section outline of the wing is extended out  3/8" , in order for the blue color tissue to wrap around the wing edges to meet top and bottom, and cut off the excess of course.   And there is lots of extra white tissue now to work with to pull tight when gluing the tissue to the frame and every rib.

Pic #3     1479     Here Mandrake and Bloodroot have removed the freshly traced wing and check for major ink blobs - looks pretty good.

Pic #4     1481     The new panel is upper left, and it has been colored,  and, as an experiment, its thin outline was traced over with the thicker Penmark ink, clearly more visible.   The old right side wing (without all of the extra blue and the extra white tissue),  has the thin black outline for comparison.   I think the thick outline looks better.   Three more final design patterns are now traced onto white tissue.   We need one for the top and bottom of each wing.   Note the colored "ink blotter" wing pattern after the tissue was removed from on top.

Pic #5     1488     Here the two tissue panels are overlaid with the wing frame.

Pic #6     1485     Here is a pic from underneath from under the table (carpet level),  up through the clear glass of my building table (that is an air conditioner at the top of the wall) , and up into  the tissue with the balsa behind,  all "sunlit" from above with two table lamps, which shows the different outline thicknesses, and shows somewhat what it should look like in the air.  For the choice of ink thickness for the outline of the wing - either the thick black line or the thin black line - it sure looks like the thicker black ink outline gives a sharper contrast with the sky blue tissue.   I will just have to tightly re-tape the tissue panels down again with masking tape - I left a lot of extra tissue to work with - and thicken the black outline with the thicker pen, and then color them, using a clean sheet of white printer paper, as and ink blotter, to prevent the ink from running.    

The ink blotter paper backup sheet can be seen in pic #4   1481 , at the lower left, and how it soaks up all of the extra ink bleeds.   I call this my "abstract Picasso" wing pattern.

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Richard
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« Reply #67 on: February 26, 2019, 02:12:18 AM »

It really looks wild from below Richard. I didn't appreciate how much effect that would have.

Interesting effect.

John
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« Reply #68 on: February 27, 2019, 12:16:15 PM »

OSPREY  20"   SPORTS GLIDER   Vintage Model Company laser cut kit

Hi John.  Thanks for that.  It took a lot of fiddling with good light etc, to get that last pic - it sure does make the wing look long.    We will have to wait and see though, what it looks like with two identical colored tissue panels, top and bottom, with the "good" light shining through them ...

     Mandrake and Bloodroot are told to come up with a couple of designs for the stab,  but also to try to match the wing design.

Pic #1     1495     Bloodroot is drawing a design in pencil.
Pic #2     1497     This is his finished design.   1:20 pilot waiting for paint.
Pic #3     1501     design #3    
Pic #4     1504     design #2
Pic #5     1505     design #1
Pic #6     1507     All three designs for comparison - Bloodroot says he likes the #3 design.

     Now there are just two more stab tissue panels to trace up, and then final coloring, starting with finishing off coloring the wings first, to see if I have enough ink in my markers ...   Undecided

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Richard
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Re: OSPREY 20" SPORTS GLIDER Vintage Model Company laser cut kit
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« Reply #69 on: February 27, 2019, 03:05:34 PM »

Your "fine-feathered" designs look good!  Are you using Esaki tissue?  Was also curious what you'll use to seal the tissue, ie Krylon, or dope or?  I'm doing a similar set of experiments for 2 no-cal models, where I have used a combination of permanent and "not so permanent" markers, and colored pencils.  I think a light dusting of white Design Master "floral spray" on the backside of white Esaki tissue is all I will do, after I draw the color markings on the fuselage tissue. (Wings and tail are simply all white with Ultra fine black Sharpie pen used for control surface outlines).  I've also tested my glue stick and PVA/white glue for bonding tissue to the structure outlines, with no "bleed" or compatibility problems. 

I preshrink the tissue first, laying the wetted tissue on a dishrack/drainboard to air-dry.  Seems to do better, when "unrestrained".  Attaching to a picture frame seems to limit the amount of shrinkage the tissue undergoes.  Then I iron the tissue to smooth it out, before applying the markings.

 
Anyway, watching this with interest!
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« Reply #70 on: February 28, 2019, 11:10:36 AM »

     Hi Indoor flyer.  Thanks for the nice reply.  Smiley  Yes, this design feathering and outlining and coloring really is an experiment, as I have not tried this approach before.  I am worried about the ink color "bleed"  when I try to shrink and seal the tissue.  I think it is Esaki white tissue that I am using to ink up these designs on.  It came from a Sig  22"   'Cabinaire'  laser kit that I used a different color scheme on.   
      The only thing I have ever used for sealing shrunken tissue is Krylon Clear Gloss ( after shrinking with water ), a couple of light coats of which, really brings out the color and clear look transparency of the tissue.    I thought I was going to glue the finished, colored tissue panels, to the ribs and all balsa, stringers etc, using only a small thinned bead of  White Glue ( 70%  white glue  30%  water ),  and try to pull the tissue really tight and pin it down as best I can, let it dry, and then figure out what to do as far as shrinking and sealing.   I am open to any suggestions.   I think the colored Marker ink I am using is water soluble, which opens a cans of worms  ...

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« Reply #71 on: February 28, 2019, 11:22:39 AM »

Good am lastwood, of course you are gonna do a bench test, and you really ought to be using permanent makers like the sharpies, but since you are using water solubles you would be better off shrinking with 91% alcohol than plain water. Beware to keep the cap tight as the more air that gets introduced into the alcohol, the water content increases. Would it be a deal breaker to do the art over with permanent makers? Good luck! Great looking model!
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« Reply #72 on: February 28, 2019, 12:06:31 PM »

     Hi Crabby - thanks for the tips and nice comment.   I do have one wing tissue panel outlined and colored up that was a spare, so I will cut it into half or thirds and do the bench test experiment as you say, and see if and how this ink bleeds and seals.   The "Rubbing Alcohol" I have here is  70% Ethyl alcohol (Ethanol) and  30% water.
      I remember looking specifically for different colored brown markers way back, and I found the brown colors were very hard to find - these are the only ones I found and they are not permanent I think.   This color scheme turned out to be way more tedious and exacting work, trying to make those thin lines and tracing, than I thought it was going to be.   I had better just try with this for now and see how it turns out.
      Latest pics coming right up!   Grin

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« Reply #73 on: February 28, 2019, 12:20:44 PM »

OSPREY 20"  SPORTS GLIDER   Vintage Model Company laser cut kit

Pic #1     1511     The tissue for the stabilizer has been stretched out, taped down tight, and it has been inked in with thick outlines, and thinner inside lines.

Pic #2     1512     At the top are two stab tissue panels all inked up, and one is also colored.

Pic #3     1514     The second stab tissue panel is taped up tight and ready to color.   This is the correct scale distance between the stab and the wings.

Pic #4     1516     Here both stab tissue panels are done.  I finally discovered how to spread the blue ink horizontally (east to west),  on the lower stab panel, without the thick overlap of ink strokes.

Pic #5     1517     More abstract Picasso art   Undecided  on the "ink blotter" backing printer sheet.

Pic #6     1518     This is what is done so far.  There are two old practice wings at the top left.   The two stab panels are done, only one of the four wing panels is colored, and all four of the wing panels need the thick black outline inking.  Lots of work yet    Huh  Huh   for Mandrake and Bloodroot   Grin  , that is ...

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Richard
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Re: OSPREY 20" SPORTS GLIDER Vintage Model Company laser cut kit
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« Reply #74 on: March 01, 2019, 11:51:08 AM »

OSPREY 20"  SPORTS GLIDER   Vintage Model Company laser cut kit

    We got started on finishing the tissue pattern coloring and outlining ...

     All things really must be taped down flat, with a clean ink blotter sheet in behind ...

     This wing just needs the thicker outline, and the blue has been filled in on the white edges, where the rib location marks are.   This thicker black inking on the outline is hard to do because you have to do long, even, relatively slow, strokes with the pen, without stopping.  If you stop and try to start up again at the same spot, you WILL have an inkblot.

Pic #1     1520

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