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Author Topic: OSPREY 20" SPORTS GLIDER Vintage Model Company laser cut kit  (Read 4501 times)
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LASTWOODSMAN
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« Reply #125 on: September 09, 2019, 04:07:03 AM »

Hi John!    Smiley    Maybe I should put a control stick in there too, and the Pilot's forearms too, and his legs ... LOL.   I am rather really looking forward to test glides more and more ...   Cool

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Richard
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« Reply #126 on: September 09, 2019, 04:10:32 AM »

Well just think of the poor guy seeing the ground coming up while legless and armless Cheesy

John
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LASTWOODSMAN
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« Reply #127 on: September 09, 2019, 01:22:27 PM »

OSPREY  20"   SPORTS GLIDER   Vintage Model Company laser cut kit

FUSELAGE TAIL END JOINING

     This was pretty tricky.   It is so fragile and flimsy, I almost broke the fuse sides   Shocked  a couple of times.
     M and B joined the rear portion of the noseblock to the fuse halves, with masking tape strips and a small black,  light rubber band.  The fuse rear ends were double white glued, held together with two masking tape strips, a couple of small balsa plank spacers, and clamped up with a not-too-strong, blue clamp.

Pic #1     3170     The tail end is glued up.
Pic #2     3171     M and B celebrate like on New Year's Eve.

     Time to clear my head,  with a therapeutic walk in the woods,  with my best pal, while the glue dries.     Grin

LASTWOODSMAN
Richard
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« Reply #128 on: September 09, 2019, 01:34:40 PM »

Quote from: LASTWOODSMAN
...so fragile and flimsy, I almost broke the fuse sides
Odd.  Seemed quite robust on the one I built, never felt like I was in any danger of breaking anything.  Vagaries of wood selection from kit to kit I suppose.

The only (minor) niggle I had was having to bind the sides in at frame 8 while the glue set. Oh, and the elastic band that was around the plan makes a pretty good clamp for most of the rest of the cross pieces.  Smiley
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LASTWOODSMAN
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« Reply #129 on: September 09, 2019, 03:18:30 PM »

     Hi Lurker.   I think that Former #8 may now be just three crossmembers.   The instruction booklet does say "The major side pieces of the fuselage (K1) should be handled very carefully, as before the various stiffeners and other structural parts are added, they are quite delicate."     The close call was when I was trying to locate and tape into position, which was not called for on the plans,   the partial nose block to the front fuse halves, and masking-tape them in place, and add a small not-to-strong light rubber band.  Once the band snapped off with a sound just like a balsa wood break.   Roll Eyes   Luckily I got away with it.   Smiley
         The structure is well designed and strong with the rear end taped and glued up, and the Formers #& and #9 glued up, and all the cross members and stiffeners all glued up,  and will be even moreso as they are all added.
        Being a laser cut kit, I thought I would try to very lightly to sand off all of the very light laser cut burns.   In so doing,  I got a cumulative effect of that very thin balsa removal, in that the tab, of the tab and notch, did not quite fit up flush with the notch face, in a few places,  but really nothing too worrisome.   The wood does appear to be nice and light in weight, but I cannot say for sure.

We are late for our walk.    Grin

LASTWOODSMAN
Richard
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« Reply #130 on: September 12, 2019, 07:35:24 AM »

I guess that is all well and truly glued together now Richard, and I imagine quite strong now.

John
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« Reply #131 on: September 12, 2019, 01:26:39 PM »

OSPREY 20"   SPORTS GLIDER   Vintage Model Company laser cut kit

MAKING THE LONG LOCATING GAP SLOT GROOVE AT THE BOTTOM OF THE FUSE,  TO FIT AND LOCATE THE RAISED SKID CENTER EDGE

     Here is the first real difficulty that I ran into.  It took pathetic me,  a  long time to figure it out, and also took a significant amount of exhausting exercise of the grey matter of my brain   Huh   -   I think I just got it all figured out, though.   Smiley

     The skid is laser cut to match the bottom curve of the fuse to glue up exactly.   The skid is not symmetrical about the Y-axis.  Forwards and backwards movement of the skid,  is also prevented, by adding a little piece of  1.6 mm sq (1/16" sq) strip balsa, for the tips of the skid to locate and butt up against these balsa strips, at the front and rear of the skid.   That is the  fore/aft location (X-axis).   Now the skid needs to be supported for side to side movement (y-axis) also, as in a crash.

     The skid is made of three pieces of flat balsa, all glued together and sandwiching the middle piece, which has been cut in half, and glued in place, separated a little bit at the cut, just enough, to glue in the Tow Hook wire.   These two center pieces, S2 and S3,  are lightened with circular cutouts of  balsa,  and have "F" laser cut marks at the front of these parts, and  have a raised upper edge lip, that extends upwards,  1.6mm (1/16"),  past  the "matching" upper edge curve, of the two outer sandwiching skid pieces S1.    The front hollowed out piece S2, also has that laser cut "F" on it,   so there is no mistake.

     The raised edge lip, of the skid's middle balsa lamination,  fits into  laser cut slots at the bottom of the fuse Formers and  fuse bottom Crossmember Midbraces.   These notches are three times too large and wide, for the raised edge of the skid,  so small pieces of  1/16" sq balsa strip (1.6 mm sq), used for skid side locators,  are cut and glued to the inside sides of these notches, in order to snugly fit the raised "edge lip" of the middle  skid piece.

       I have marked 5 spots with arrows, pointing to where the wide slots at the bottom, need to be narrowed, by adding two tiny pieces of  1/16" sq (1.6 mm sq) balsa strip, to the inside of these extra wide Formers and Crossmembers (midbraces)  slots, that support the skid's sideways movement  (Y-axis).   That is 10 agonizing little pieces to try to glue on,  that could be avoided (I think),  if the slots were laser cut 1/3 smaller in the first place -  ie  1.6 mm sq (1/16" sq) wide, centered square slots, not rectangular slots.    Just an engineering update to consider for the next run of kits.   

Pic #1     3195     These parts at the bottom of the fuse, at these five numbered spots,  have a rectangular notch,  which needs two small  1.6mm sq (1/16" sq) balsa strips (as per plan), to fill in the sides of the notch, to achieve the correct gap.

Pic #2     3197     This is sort of what the skid looks like.

Pic #3     3200      The parts at all five spots, now have two little locator guide strips, white-glued into the oversized rectangular notches.

Pic #4     3202     All of the little strips have dried overnight.  Here is a better view,  after taping up the fuse nose, to  test fit all of the parts.

Pic #5     3204     Time for the test fit of the clamped up skid pieces.

Pic #6     3205     SUCCESS   Grin   ....   This is why I like laser cut kits  -  Perfect Fit !!   Shocked  Now to keep the fuse straight and glue it all together.   Undecided

LASTWOODSMAN
Richard
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« Reply #132 on: September 12, 2019, 07:10:03 PM »

I wonder if balsa strips running from fuselage station 1 to station 5 was the intent. A long narrow slot would then serve as the "locator" for the skid. The slot perimeter would serve as a tissue anchor around the base of the skid.

Progress looks good!
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Make the same mistake on both sides; nobody will notice...
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« Reply #133 on: September 12, 2019, 08:45:03 PM »

     Hi Indoorflyer.   I think you are right   Shocked  - they should be one long stringer on each side.   I did it all wrong.   Huh   Thanks for pointing that out.    All is not lost, though ...   Tongue  I think I will just glue it all together as it is, nice and even,  then,  with hot water and a small paintbrush,  I will dissolve those white glue joints in no time at all, and remove those 10 little strips,  and then glue in the one piece  1/16" sq stringer, like you said (I think that was the intent now too), on each side of the slot,  for the tissue to anchor on.    Cheesy
     Time to clear the building board and start on a jig or template or something to hold the fuse straight ...

Pic #1   Agony
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« Reply #134 on: September 13, 2019, 05:31:45 PM »

OSPREY 20"  SPORTS GLIDER   Vintage Model Company laser cut kit

MAKING THE LONG LOCATING GAP SLOT GROOVE AT THE BOTTOM OF THE FUSE,  TO FIT AND LOCATE THE RAISED SKID CENTER EDGE

More progress

Pic #1     3212     All the 10 little 1.6 mm sq (1/16" sq) balsa strips were dissolved off with hot water, and new,  continuous support strips were cut out to fit.  One of the two 1/16" sq side support strips for the skid, is all glued up, and the second strip is waiting on the big balsa block.

Pic #2     3215     Before gluing down the second strip (sitting beside the glued on first strip),  I took a small piece of plastic wrap, and wrapped the circles-hollowed-out center skid piece, and covered it with the plastic wrap.  I will use this as the spacer between these two longeron strip supports, while they dry, and then the center lam should just pull out when all the glue dries.

Pic #3     3216     Here it is all glued up, with the plastic wrapped middle balsa lam sitting snug in its "trough", waiting for the glue to dry before removing it.

LASTWOODSMAN
Richard
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« Reply #135 on: September 13, 2019, 09:15:15 PM »

OSPREY  20"   SPORTS GLIDER   Vintage Model Company laser cut kit

And more progress ...

Pic #1     3217     The wrapped center skid piece lifted right out, and the slot is dry.

pic #2     3218      Looks like it fits in the groove pretty well.

Pic #3     3219      Out side pic of the fit of the center skid piece.  Fits perfect - laser cut.  
  
Pic #4     3220     Yikes!  Shocked   Wrong crossmember by my thumb!!    Undecided  Too large - wrong one ...    Never fear - I white glued everything.   Grin Grin

Pic #5     3227     Everything laid out.

Pic #6     3221     Parts left to do.  First look at a decent mock-up pic.  

     It is coming together quickly now.   Cheesy

LASTWOODSMAN
Richard
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« Reply #136 on: September 14, 2019, 06:39:05 AM »

You're on the home run now Richard. A bit of covering and a canopy.

John
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« Reply #137 on: September 14, 2019, 11:44:32 AM »

OSPREY 20"   SPORTS GLIDER   Vintage Model Company laser cut kit

Hi John.    Lots more to do yet ....

-  use pins or glue to attach the pilot
-   istall pilot seat
-   install the rest of the crossmembers
-   a couple of locating strips on the tailplane for fore/aft location
-   glue the main skid together,  consider a thin metal strip on the bottom for hitting the ground,  glue mainskid and tail skid last
-    fit the nose block and sand to shape and wood stain,  and make a little extra space for some more nose weight, and figure out the balance
-   bend up the tow hook wire, and figure out the attachment
-   color scheme -  all orange tissue on the fuse now?
-   how to replace the tissue mistake on top of the wing middle section
-   canopy ?   - I don't think I have canopy glue  -  maybe just very thin pins ?
-    glue the wings on, or just cut all the dowel holes' tissue, and fly with rubber bands holding the wing on ....
-     make a rubber catapult to launch the glider
-   and last but not least,  some arms and legs for the pilot ??

     Mandrake and Bloodroot clear the building board, and prepare for final assemblies and tissue covering of the fuse.

     Here is some really great slow music, by Tim Janis,   that I listen to while modelling.   His work generally concerns itself with strong and descriptive melodies, often regarding the beauty of nature.

Peaceful Relaxing Instrumental Music, Meditation Calm music, "Spring Birds" by Tim Janis
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mlbJOv901rQ&t=2972s

Pic #1     3245

LASTWOODSMAN
Richard
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« Reply #138 on: September 14, 2019, 10:56:33 PM »

OSPREY 20"   SPORTS GLIDER   Vintage Model Company laser cut kit

FUSE CROSSMEMBERS

     More progress ...

Pic #1     3244     Mandrake and Bloodroot, Cyber Super Soldiers from the future,  get up early and finish blocking up the fuselage again.

Pic #2     3249     The fuse sides have to be squeezed tighter, to glue in three crossmembers.   M & B have two light elastics pinning the sides tight  "Heath Robinson" style ... ,  while the glue dries.

Pic #3     3248      M & B have used  5 min  Epoxy, to glue the Pilot to the baseplate.     M and B try to wiggle the pilot and baseplate into position.

Pic #4     3254     It did fit, and sat on the four pads just fine.   Now it is all white glued in,  as M & B examine their work.

Pic #5     3255     The Pilot's head barely fits   Roll Eyes   in under that crossmember,  that was just added.     M & B will carve a little bit off of the bottom of that crossmember, right above the head.

Pic #6     3256     Not done yet.   Huh   The bottom nose crossmember has light shining through   Shocked   -  as it turns out, the crossmember diagonally across from this one,  is also a false white glue joint.   We will dissolve the joints with hot water and re-glue them, and brace them up properly this time.

LASTWOODSMAN
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Re: OSPREY 20" SPORTS GLIDER Vintage Model Company laser cut kit
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« Reply #139 on: Today at 11:32:29 AM »

OSPREY  20"   SPORTS GLIDER   Vintage Model Company laser cut kit

     Moving right along now  ...  lost a few days with broken reading glasses ...   Sad

Pic #1     3291    Here it is with the final crossmembers added and drying.   The two side fuse pieces, at the nose are blocked up for the curve of the nose.   I brushed the outsides of the fuse, at these bends, with water, and when it dried, it dried tight enough to squeeze the nose plug in place, without further adieu.

Pic #2     3294   I re-glued a bottom cross member.   I had gotten a little lazy in the double white gluing department.   Embarrassed

     With the fuse frame done, I knew I had to see if the model balances, before covering the fuse with tissue.     The ballast hole in the Nose plug/Nose block, is  5 mm diam and 13 mm long.   I looked for some straws, that would fit that hole, and stick out further toward the rear, so I could add some more ballast clay weight if needed.   I lucked out   Cheesy   at Dollarama for  $1.25 -  these striped paper straws are solid-walled and fit the hole exactly !    So,  I cut 3 lengths of straw, each 24 mm long, and filled them up with    #1  clay only,    #2  clay and lead shot,    #3  lead shot only,  and sealed off one end of the straw, with small thin strips of Scotch tape.

Pic #3     3321     You can see how far one of the straws sticks in past the noseblock.    #1  clay only  weighs 0.72 grams,   #2   clay and lead shot weigh  2.08 grams,  and  #3  has  13 pellets of lead shot only and weighs 2.37  grams.

Pic #4     3324     The three ballast tubes are now filled.  You can see how it fits into the nose of the fuse -  a nice tight slip fit !

Pic #5     3326     I cut out two wooden dowels for the wings and sanded the tips.   Here she tries on her new wings and tail section.    The elastics are just the right size and strength.   Grin

Pic #6     3327     And a side view.

     Now it is time to check the balance, using the three little, interchangeable paper straw ballast tubes ... 

LASTWOODSMAN
Richard
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Re: OSPREY 20" SPORTS GLIDER Vintage Model Company laser cut kit
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OH, I HAVE SLIPPED THE SURLY BONDS OF EARTH ... UP, UP THE LONG DELIRIOUS BURNING BLUE ... SUNWARD I'VE CLIMBED AND JOINED THE TUMBLING MIRTH OF SUN-SPLIT CLOUDS ...
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