Rhys
Bronze Member
Kudos: 5
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 United States
Posts: 59
Faithful Wingman
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« Reply #50 on: February 22, 2019, 12:07:29 PM » |
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Very nice looking abl!!! Looking at the initial pic of sagittal fuse, the nose post appears to be tilted a few degrees off vertical towards the ground. Is that to build in down thrust? If so, how much. Looking forward to wood this one being finished  Rhys |
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abl
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« Reply #51 on: February 22, 2019, 05:09:12 PM » |
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Very nice looking abl!!! Looking at the initial pic of sagittal fuse, the nose post appears to be tilted a few degrees off vertical towards the ground. Is that to build in down thrust? If so, how much. Looking forward to wood this one being finished Rhys I think that's probably an optical illusion - the pictures are taken with an iPhone 5S so there will probably be some distortion for close-range subjects. I have checked the plan though and it shows the propshaft with 2 degrees downthrust. Andy |
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abl
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« Reply #52 on: March 05, 2019, 11:55:51 AM » |
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Total workbench time is 52.2 hours. One additional thing that I noticed whilst prepping the fuselage for covering is that F3, in addition to being not quite symmetrical, doesn't overhang the sides quite far enough because it doesn't allow for the additional fuselage width produced by adding piece 'Z'; see photo #1. The fuselage is - thankfully - covered, I spent the half the weekend re-shrinking because I'd used pre-shrunk tissue for the fuselage sides and it wasn't quite tight enough. And I used the wrong dope again so the main longerons have pulled-in slightly - it's not really my best work. Never mind. See photos #2 and #3. I've also produced a set of paper decals on an ink-jet printer (photo #4) but I'm having a bit of trouble matching the printed RGB colour values from a scanned image - the red is turning out a bit brown-ish and the pale yellow is a bit dark (I think part of the problem is that the ink might be changing colour as it dries), so I'll probably have to match both colours manually. Jobs left to do are: - Finish attaching all the parts that are made from the special Keil Kraft "stiff paper" and "thin card", plus the cabin glazing. This process is slightly hampered because none of the 2D curved shapes on the plan (e.g. cowl, etc.) has turned out - so far - to be anything like accurate.
- Attach all the paper decals and go over the control surface hinge lines.
- Spray, cut and attach the wing registration lettering and fuselage stripes (yellow tissue is framed, dope is drying).
- Ink-in the cabin doors, etc.
- Make some jigs, take a deep breath or two, and assemble all the parts and detail bits.
- Add prop and wheels; I think that for expediency, I'll use the kit wheels for now and then if there's time before the Nats, I'll make some from balsa.
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« Last Edit: March 05, 2019, 12:39:34 PM by abl »
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Jack Plane
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« Reply #53 on: March 05, 2019, 01:39:49 PM » |
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Looking very crisp and well up to your usual standards! Also, can't see anything that might lead you to have to drink a pint of warm lager... |
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TheLurker
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« Reply #54 on: March 05, 2019, 02:26:16 PM » |
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Looking very crisp and well up to your usual standards! Also, can't see anything that might lead you to have to drink a pint of warm lager... Curses! Foiled Again! If it wasn't for that pesky Abl!  That looks really good. Looking forward to springing for a couple of bottles of beer. Things here still looking OK for the 16 th so will present your prize then. |
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Monz
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« Reply #55 on: March 05, 2019, 05:25:27 PM » |
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Also, can't see anything that might lead you to have to drink a pint of warm lager... Yet... 
I've also produced a set of paper decals on an ink-jet printer (photo #4) but I'm having a bit of trouble matching the printed RGB colour values from a scanned image - the red is turning out a bit brown-ish and the pale yellow is a bit dark (I think part of the problem is that the ink might be changing colour as it dries), so I'll probably have to match both colours manually.
Have you tried scanning the image to CMYK and then matching? Printers run CMYK and print to set RGB screen profiles so you'll never quite get it to match. Is your monitor calibrated? I used to use a Spyder colorimeter once upon a time when I was still in the industry, but you can do a basic calibration without a tool like that which should get you closer. https://www.wikihow.com/Calibrate-Your-MonitorThe Station Wagon is coming along nicely too. |
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« Last Edit: March 05, 2019, 05:39:29 PM by Monz »
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abl
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« Reply #56 on: March 06, 2019, 09:50:51 AM » |
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Also, can't see anything that might lead you to have to drink a pint of warm lager... Yet... a pint!! It's half a pint of warm Lager...
I've also produced a set of paper decals on an ink-jet printer (photo #4) but I'm having a bit of trouble matching the printed RGB colour values from a scanned image - the red is turning out a bit brown-ish and the pale yellow is a bit dark (I think part of the problem is that the ink might be changing colour as it dries), so I'll probably have to match both colours manually.
Have you tried scanning the image to CMYK and then matching? Printers run CMYK and print to set RGB screen profiles so you'll never quite get it to match. Is your monitor calibrated? I used to use a Spyder colorimeter once upon a time when I was still in the industry, but you can do a basic calibration without a tool like that which should get you closer. https://www.wikihow.com/Calibrate-Your-MonitorI've just spent an hour or two futzing around with the printer/scanner (Canon 6800 series); the scan and monitor image are pretty close to real-life (although I did re-calibrate the monitor, thanks for the link) but what gets printed is miles off, even after a re-calibration. However, I've managed to manually match something that's "close enough" - the tissue is translucent and the colour changes as the light shines through it, and in any case it's a different colour when there's balsa underneath, so it's not as though there's a single colour that will always match. So, it looks as though the printer isn't fit for purpose - however, all is not lost. The Minister for Home Affairs has a home office and she likes nothing better (well, very few things, anyway) than buying replacement equipment because then she can offset tax against earnings. The printer is getting rather long in the tooth and is costing an arm and a leg in ink cartridges, so if I can persuade her to buy a replacement printer that's cheaper to run and is - entirely coincidentally - better for hobby use (particularly for printing WW1 lozenge camo on tissue), everyone's a winner. On a slightly different subject, I'd like to ask for permission (from The Judge - see post #1) to do a small modification, purely for the purposes of practicality - referring to picture #1, there's a small airscoop under the nose made from the special Keil Kraft Thin Card; it's not on NC638C but it has to be there on the model because it's on the plan. Now, unfortunately, the scoop is positioned right about where the nose would be held for winding, stuffing motors, replacing the nose block, etc. and is very vulnerable - it's not going to be long before some clumsy oaf (probably me) flattens it just by handling the model normally. Could the Judge perhaps see his way clear to sanctioning a minor reinforcement of the air scoop? A small rectangle of balsa stuffed in the front of the scoop should give it a degree of lateral strength. (I can hear the legal department of The Lurker Industries Aeroplane C o. L td sharpening their green pencils...) |
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Mefot
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« Reply #57 on: March 06, 2019, 10:31:50 AM » |
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You could consider replacing the card with plasticard or whatever it's called these days. Much more rigid |
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randoloid
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« Reply #58 on: March 06, 2019, 12:21:50 PM » |
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if you'd like to email me the scan I will convert it into vector artwork that will reproduce much better- [email protected]R |
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Jack Plane
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« Reply #59 on: March 06, 2019, 02:12:03 PM » |
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Approval given for small rectangle of balsa to strengthen [poorly thought-out by designer] card scoop. |
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TheLurker
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« Reply #60 on: March 06, 2019, 03:21:16 PM » |
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Also, can't see anything that might lead you to have to drink a pint of warm lager... a pint!! It's half a pint of warm Lager... Hmmm, a pint eh? I think His Honour the Judge may be on to something. I think I'll just telephone the C o. lawyers to see what we can do.... Andy, that air intake's not very big so perhaps soft balsa block instead with a bit of black tissue for the vent? Much as I did for my M-10. The extra weight up front of a solid lump of wood may even help a little with trimming. It'd be a great deal more robust for both handling and less than ideal arrivals. |
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abl
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« Reply #61 on: March 06, 2019, 04:06:02 PM » |
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if you'd like to email me the scan I will convert it into vector artwork that will reproduce much better- [email protected]R That's extremely kind of you - I accept! Email sent. Andy |
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abl
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« Reply #62 on: March 06, 2019, 04:13:39 PM » |
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Also, can't see anything that might lead you to have to drink a pint of warm lager... a pint!! It's half a pint of warm Lager... Hmmm, a pint eh? I think His Honour the Judge may be on to something. I think I'll just telephone the C o. lawyers to see what we can do.... Andy, that air intake's not very big so perhaps soft balsa block instead with a bit of black tissue for the vent? Much as I did for my M-10. The extra weight up front of a solid lump of wood may even help a little with trimming. It'd be a great deal more robust for both handling and less than ideal arrivals. I'll have to get authorization from His Honour the Judge to use balsa block (or plasticard as suggested by Mefot - good idea); what do you think Yer Honour? Can I make it out of anything I like? (Albert E Hatfull probably did it that way because Eddie Keil wouldn't let him put any more balsa in the kit) A. |
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randoloid
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« Reply #63 on: March 06, 2019, 05:52:25 PM » |
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if you'd like to email me the scan I will convert it into vector artwork that will reproduce much better- [email protected]R That's extremely kind of you - I accept! Email sent. Andy My pleasure, I have already sent you an email with one of the logos. If I'd taken the time to look at earlier posts in the thread I could have answered my own questions so my apologies for that. Just let me know if the quality of the redraw looks ok to you and I'll finish it up in the next day or so. |
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Jack Plane
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« Reply #64 on: March 08, 2019, 05:27:16 AM » |
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I'll have to get authorization from His Honour the Judge to use balsa block (or plasticard as suggested by Mefot - good idea); what do you think Yer Honour? Can I make it out of anything I like?
I thought I had already approved this, but for the avoidance of any future doubt I can confirm that I am indeed amenable to you making the item out of any material or combination of materials you wish, so long as it is present in the exact position and with the correct dimensions as given on the plan. |
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Yak 52
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« Reply #65 on: March 08, 2019, 06:16:03 AM » |
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The fuselage is - thankfully - covered, I spent the half the weekend re-shrinking because I'd used pre-shrunk tissue for the fuselage sides and it wasn't quite tight enough.
Hi Andy, this is looking really nice! I'm not sure if I've missed it but did you mention what tissue you used? It looks a darker red than standard esaki? Jon |
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abl
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« Reply #66 on: March 08, 2019, 03:33:19 PM » |
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Hi Jon - it's Esaki tissue available from SAMs; this isn't the same as the older stuff that we used to get years ago, the colours are a bit more vibrant. But other than that, it looks very similar and has the same furious shrinkage across the grain. I'll have to get authorization from His Honour the Judge to use balsa block (or plasticard as suggested by Mefot - good idea); what do you think Yer Honour? Can I make it out of anything I like?
I thought I had already approved this, but for the avoidance of any future doubt I can confirm that I am indeed amenable to you making the item out of any material or combination of materials you wish, so long as it is present in the exact position and with the correct dimensions as given on the plan. I'm obliged, m'lud. I was merely seeking to ensure that I did not fall foul of a technicality. |
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Yak 52
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« Reply #67 on: March 08, 2019, 03:43:04 PM » |
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Thanks Andy - it looks just right for the darker red of the original.
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abl
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« Reply #68 on: March 13, 2019, 10:11:52 AM » |
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Total workbench time so far: 53.7 hrs.
Cabin windows were done using the very thin acetate from a Tunnock's Teacake box and a little bit of canopy glue (see photo #1); luckily, I remembered to dope both sides of the (paper) frame first to stop any wrinkles. Photo #2 shows the current state of the fuselage - it's a matter of some regret that the substitution of thin card (or special Keil Kraft stiff paper) was disallowed, because there are wrinkles. I'll change it after the Nats.
Photos #3 and #4 show the registration letters; some of them didn't want to lie flat, and some of them still don't. I'm not 100% certain how to fix this, maybe carefully slice through each bubble/lifted edge and glue the flaps down?
Paper decals for the fuselage and tail will be added next (.png renditions of Randy's decals are show in pictures #5 and #6), then the cabin doors (etc.) followed by the remaining notepaper parts. After that, I'll have no excuse not to try some assembly. With a bit of luck, it'll be ready for indoor flying on Saturday.
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Indoorflyer
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« Reply #69 on: March 13, 2019, 10:51:24 AM » |
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The vector artwork registration numbers came out very nice. What did you print them on?
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Make the same mistake on both sides; nobody will notice...
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Jack Plane
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« Reply #70 on: March 13, 2019, 12:28:09 PM » |
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Looking ridiculously good...
...so far!
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TheLurker
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« Reply #71 on: March 13, 2019, 01:52:06 PM » |
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...it's a matter of some regret that the substitution of thin card (or special Keil Kraft stiff paper) was disallowed, because there are wrinkles. I'll change it after the Nats.
As this is a back-up machine for the Nats and if it's not too late I'm quite prepared to compel the C o. lawyers to look the other way on this matter. It does look good. |
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abl
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« Reply #72 on: March 13, 2019, 04:47:56 PM » |
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Total (corrected) workbench time: circa 62 hrs The vector artwork registration numbers came out very nice. What did you print them on?
Randy's original .pdf files were printed on a Canon MG6850 - not a printer I would recommend because it doesn't accurately render colours. And the ink is expensive. I'm trying to convince She Who Must Be Obeyed to buy a better printer that will - entirely coincidentally - be very suitable for printing German WW1 lozenge camouflage on tissue... (Any suggestions for the correct printer to buy for printing WW1 lozenge camo gratefully received...) Looking ridiculously good...
...so far!
Thanks! ...it's a matter of some regret that the substitution of thin card (or special Keil Kraft stiff paper) was disallowed, because there are wrinkles. I'll change it after the Nats.
As this is a back-up machine for the Nats and if it's not too late I'm quite prepared to compel the C o. lawyers to look the other way on this matter. It does look good. Nah, it's OK - it doesn't look that bad. And this is the one I'm entering, so it is what it is... Just doing the rest of the details this evening, should be able to start assembly tomorrow... |
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OZPAF
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« Reply #73 on: March 13, 2019, 07:46:06 PM » |
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Impressive - good luck on Saturday.
John
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abl
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« Reply #74 on: March 15, 2019, 08:02:52 AM » |
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Total workbench time: 70.6 hours... ...and we're finished! Apart from installing rubber and balancing - it balances just behind the main spar at the moment, so it'll need a gram or two. I quite like the way it looks, apart from the cooling holes in the cowl which the builder is instructed to "...Cut from plan and cement to noseblock...", so that's what you have to do if penalty points are to be avoided. I'll prettify it a bit after the Nats. Total weight at this point is 26.02 grams, thinking of using 4 strands of 0.070" or 0.075", probably the latter because there's only about 1/4" trimmed from the 6" prop. |
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