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Author Topic: AVIA BH - 11  (Read 4014 times)
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Squirrelnet
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« Reply #25 on: March 02, 2019, 04:27:24 AM »

Very nice build Dave. I like your simple wing attachment method, very neat

Chris
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dputt7
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« Reply #26 on: March 03, 2019, 09:10:02 AM »

      Thanks Chris, it's pretty old school, I did briefly think about magnets.

      Got the tailplane done today, similar construction to the wing.  Used the scale rib spacing but increased the size by 10%. I decided on using a 6% airfoil section as the nose is a bit on the short side, I was warned about using a lifting tailplane on power scale  models as they tend to loop under power but being rubber it shouldn't have the large variation in speed. So I used a rib form I had lying around from an F1L and laminated 2 sheets of 1/32" balsa to form the ribs.  The main spar is 2 laminations of 1/16" and the front spar is 1/16" and the tips are light block.

          Not sure why the balsa looks so red in the photos, maybe an effect of the flash!
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THB
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« Reply #27 on: March 04, 2019, 07:10:55 AM »

Glad the F1L paraphernalia got a second run  Grin Grin
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Tim
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dputt7
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« Reply #28 on: March 04, 2019, 07:35:46 AM »

       Yes Tim I have a whole box of that stuff, jigs and wot nots , certainly learned a lot out of that.
    
      Got on with the Rudder, I have increased it by 10%, the same as the Tailplane. The leading edge and the curved bottom section are laminated from 1mm balsa. After a lot of sanding it now resembles the original. I've built the fin and rudder to be hinged so I can adjust for turn, it will be cut and hinged at a later stage    
      The landing gear was next, bent from .055" wire, as it has a faired in spreader bar I chose not to use a solid U/C and a sprung axle that would have to be exposed above the spreader bar.  The U/C is mounted solid to the front mount by the sandwhich method but the rear legs are free to move. They are guided by a ply plate securely fitted to the fuselage, the ends of the legs are bent 90deg.s so they don't pop out on the rebound and poke a hole in the fuse, guess how I know this. So now it can all be mounted together.  The rear legs look to be round tube on the full size aircraft so I have used some thin wall plastic tube over the wire legs to simulare this and it will also help to let the rear legs move nicely in the ply mount.
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dputt7
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« Reply #29 on: March 06, 2019, 08:15:26 AM »

   Still working on the under Carriage, Photo 1 shows the main legs sheeted and sanded to section, the non working scale suspension is a rubber band wrapped around the 2 hooks to simulate the shock cord suspension.  Photo 2 shows the fairing attached to the spreader bar and in Photo 3 and 4 the fairing has been covered with 1/32nd sheet. Photo 5 Finally the center support is made, because the U/C can flex this part must be free to move. To allow some movement the struts have a hole drilled in the top end so a piece of shrink tube can slide inside the leg, the tube will be glued to a short piece of copper wire mounted to the fuselage. I will attach this after covering. These struts on the full size aircraft have a piece of tube showing at the end of the strut where it attaches to the fuselage so the shrink tube simulates this.
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dputt7
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« Reply #30 on: March 15, 2019, 09:12:46 AM »

    I've been away for a short holiday but back into it now. 

A very prominent part of this model is the 5 cylinder 45 H.P. Walter NZ60, so for the last couple of days I've been working on reproducing one in 1/8th scale. For the Cylinders I considered using plastic discs stacked together but as each barrel has 20 fins I decided the easiest thing to do would be to turn them up on the lathe out of clear acrylic, fairly straight forward I ground up a parting tool the width of the spaces between the fins and plunged it into the correct depth then moved the tool the width of the space plus the thickness of the fin an plunged in again, 20 times for each barrel!  I had not done much machining with clear Acrylic and was fascinated to watch the swarf curling off the point of the drill as I drilled out the center of the barrel to lighten it. Photo 1  Photo 2 shows a finished barrel .  To represent the top of the cylinder head I bent some Plastruct tube with a candle to form the intake and exhaust ports and used some Meng plastic nuts for the cylinder head bolts. Photo 3      Photo 4 shows the cylinder head fins, I could only manage to fit about half the number that is on the original, a bit beyond my capabilities.
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dputt7
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« Reply #31 on: March 15, 2019, 09:25:29 AM »

  Next up were the exposed valve springs, just soft wire wound around a 1/8th rod and a retainer punched out of .015" plasicard. Photo 1  Photo 2 shows the rocker arms in place, I varied the angle of the rockers slightly to make it look as though some valves were open and some were closed, just a bit of fun. Photo 3 shows the all 5 Cylindres so far.
  Finally in Photo 4 is the drawing of the Walter NZ 60 I am using for reference. So I guess I'm just over the halfway mark on the engine.
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ironmike
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« Reply #32 on: March 15, 2019, 10:26:36 AM »

Davey
Don't spill any amyl nitrate on yer cylinder, it may come alive.
Beautiful work.
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billdennis747
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« Reply #33 on: March 15, 2019, 01:49:06 PM »

They look superb, Dave. However, with some companies producing 3D guns etc, I don't know why those of us without lathes or lathe skills are still having to mess about with plastic card discs, or dowels and string. Thank goodness for my remaining Williams cylinders.
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DavidJP
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« Reply #34 on: March 15, 2019, 04:13:41 PM »

Very nice indeed.  Turning can be quite theruputic as well.  But the stuff I have built of late has been a trifle too small for me to turn up with my limited skills.   As a matter of interest are things like “bought” engine cylinders allowed under the builder of the model rule which I understand applies to scale competition?  Sorry if I could have ascertained this from a read of the rules but feeling idle.
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Squirrelnet
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« Reply #35 on: March 15, 2019, 04:24:00 PM »

The engine looks superb. The turned cylinders look way better than I can manage with the disc method and give the engine a very solid machined look
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Pete Fardell
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« Reply #36 on: March 15, 2019, 06:17:34 PM »

What a great looking engine! Real craftsmanship.
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dputt7
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« Reply #37 on: March 16, 2019, 08:57:20 AM »

  Thanks for your encouragement Fella's

 Trying to work out the correct shape and method of construction for the crankcase at the present so I just took a few photos of a mock up of the build so far.
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OZPAF
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« Reply #38 on: March 17, 2019, 04:48:20 AM »

Nice light construction Dave. You could probably fly it with rubber.

John
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dputt7
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« Reply #39 on: March 18, 2019, 03:57:46 AM »

    Yes John, that's the idea  Grin

     I think I was a bit premature with my "over half way with the engine" as I'm still not finished.

Photo's 1 and 2 shows the crankcase made from 1 1/2" electrical conduit and plastic card

Photo's 2 and 3 show the cylinders glued in place

Photo 5 has the inlet manifolds, made from plastic tube bent over a candle, attached

Photo 6 The exhaust pipes glued in place with flange plates in place.

 
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dputt7
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« Reply #40 on: March 18, 2019, 04:05:40 AM »

  The Carby was next, it feeds into a collector in the crankcase, I was impressed with the way the intake tubes are positioned to gather hot air from the cylinders, I guess it does away with the need for a Carby heat system. To me that is very clever engineering and one of the many interesting things you find when researching a scratchbuilt model.

                                                                                                                                                   Dave
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RolandD6
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« Reply #41 on: March 18, 2019, 04:42:42 AM »

Very nice engine Dave.

One of my current projects is to draw in 3D the Kinner K-5, B-5 , and R-5 engines using the Operations Manual, two illustrated Parts manuals and various photos as source material. They are all very similar so I may as well draw them up simultaneously. They will end up in the HPA plans section free to anybody that would like to download them. More later when the project is done and discussed in a forum thread of its own.

As usual your projects are impressive.

Paul
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« Reply #42 on: March 18, 2019, 06:01:24 AM »

That is super realism dputt7.  Excellent engine!  Shocked

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« Reply #43 on: March 18, 2019, 08:50:46 AM »

That's not just model building, that is pure artistry!!
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« Reply #44 on: March 18, 2019, 08:51:26 PM »

Guess I should have reread your first post Smiley  That's a nice effort on the motor Dave.

John.
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dputt7
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« Reply #45 on: March 18, 2019, 10:39:03 PM »

  Thanks Fellas, I appreciate your comments, Paul that sounds like a major undertaking.

Just about there now. Finished off the push rods and rocker gear and made up the ignition harness and spark plugs. The hexagons for the plugs and the screw-on plug lead caps are plastic tube filed to shape.

     My crew arrived from Dave Banks this morning, very impressed as usual.
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dputt7
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« Reply #46 on: March 21, 2019, 08:01:10 AM »

  I've mounted the Walter NZ 60 to the fuselage, as usual there were many ways to do this but I chose one that should be practical. First up I spun up an Aluminium mount from a piece of round bar that was lying around from another project, it is only .040" thick but quite strong. Photo 1   I screwed the mount to the model with 4 self tappers into the ply firewall, there are squares of ply glued on the inside as well so the screws pass through 2 thicknesses of ply. Photo 2  The nose block has an adjustment for thrust on the rear side. The nose block was drilled on a jig to give 3deg.s down and side thrust, then a piece of wire was inserted to act as a guide and the brass plates were screwed into place. The plates were then removed and the shaft guide hole was drilled larger to allow for adjustment of the shaft, the rear plate was then drilled oversize so it can be moved to adjust the thrust. There is enough movement to go from 0 deg's to 6 deg's in both directions which should be enough. Photo 3 and 4. There is a guide pin fitted into the nose block  (Photo 4) that fits into a slot filed into the crankcase  Photo 5 and finally the assembly with the plunge moulded front of the crank case over the nose block. The motor is held in place with 2 screws into the alum. mount. I'd be keen to hear if anyone can see a problem with any of this, It does feel quite ridged and strong.  The hole through the nose block is 1.2" dia. , the same size as my 37" P51B that uses 14 strands of 1/4", more than this should ever need!
                                                                                                                                         Dave
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dputt7
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« Reply #47 on: March 21, 2019, 06:50:18 PM »

 Grin
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« Reply #48 on: March 21, 2019, 07:54:46 PM »

Very impressive Dave. It's a nicely engineered way to go but my only question would be what is the weight of the aluminium mount?
The thrust adjustment looks substantial.

John

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dputt7
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« Reply #49 on: March 22, 2019, 01:36:43 AM »

  I'm not too sure what is going on here, last night I posted ( Reply 46), when I checked this morning the photos were there but the only text was "I" so I went to the reply and rewrote the full text only to find when I posted that the previous text was back again, so I deleted my new post. I checked again later and the text was gone again, now after several hours the text says "I've mounted the" and no more, is this a problem with my computer, I realise that OZPAF must have been able to read it so am I the only one with the problem.

     Anyway, John, the aluminium mount weighs 7 grams. As I have been making the engine I have been testing the C of G and as it sits now, uncovered and no prop the balance point is at 33% cord so I guess for this model it is no weight penalty.

    Put some paint on the engine, I was able to spray the crankcase and the Cylinders but the rest had to be painted by hand, I remember from my plastic modeling days it was better to paint the bits before assembly but in this case that was not possible.
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