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Author Topic: GAR American Eaglet  (Read 1323 times)
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steveneill
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« Reply #50 on: May 10, 2019, 10:08:53 AM »

Thanks you guys. First flight will be indoor but there are still many things to do. Then there's the fiddling with motor size and loops. As for the cowl I could try later make a new one to reflect the current style.
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strat-o
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« Reply #51 on: May 10, 2019, 11:54:21 AM »

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Now we have to get someone from the EAA to build,a full scale example with that cowl. ;-)

That might take some cajoling.  A Ford model A engine with 3.3 liters only produces 40 hp!
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lincoln
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« Reply #52 on: May 10, 2019, 08:35:02 PM »

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Now we have to get someone from the EAA to build,a full scale example with that cowl. ;-)

That might take some cajoling.  A Ford model A engine with 3.3 liters only produces 40 hp!

The originals had less than that. The span is fairly long for such a light airplane. It looks a little cramped for two people anyway*, and 40 hp ought to be fine for one. Plus, it doesn't HAVE to be a Ford in there, since it won't be visible. There have been airplane conversions of Geo Metro, Honda Fit, Suzuki etc. automobile engines, though most probably have too much power without airframe modifications. Then there's electric... I seem to be taking this too seriously.

Do you know how much your model weighs?

*I've been in a Taylorcraft with a 65 hp engine, with 400+ lbs of people on board. Very slow acceleration, but it flew just fine.
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steveneill
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« Reply #53 on: May 13, 2019, 01:28:00 AM »

The model is at that stage where I'm fiddling with motors, boobins, crockets and rubber motors.

There are no suggestions on the plans for motor size. If anyone here how has built one can ring in about what might work best on this model I'd appreciate the help.

My first motor was 2 loops braided 1/8 but it seems to be a bit much in the narrow fuse. I'm thinking of trying a single loop and do some testing.

Medium sized crocket is to large and the small, well, too small.

I'm planning on building a Boehm freewheel clutch like I did for the DVIII. I could use the tad of ose weight anyway as I'm still a bit tail heavy.
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steveneill
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« Reply #54 on: May 14, 2019, 12:54:44 AM »

So I experimented today some more with motors and made a 2 loop 1/8 braided motor. Changed the crocket from a medium to a small. I added 7 grams of nose weight. Adjusted the wing incidence. Took it out to the back of our building that's sheltered from the wind somewhat and has a large parking lot. Wound her up about a 100 turns and just for shits and grins let her ROG off the pavement and to my surprise she hopped into the air and flew. Then the wind picked up the a wing tip and stalled her out but no damage.

I called it quits while I was ahead. But from the glide tests and the first power tests it's clear I'll be able to dial little girl in just fine.

I found a local school gym our club can use and this Saturday I get to go try it out. I plan to bring the Eaglet and my DCP DVIII for more testing and maybe an actual flight or two. I will shoot some video.

Pictures were taken after the first hop. No damage.

https://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l114/U-812/GAR%20American%20Eaglet/IMG_0150.jpg

https://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l114/U-812/GAR%20American%20Eaglet/IMG_0149.jpg

https://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l114/U-812/GAR%20American%20Eaglet/IMG_0147.jpg
GAR American Eaglet
GAR American Eaglet
GAR American Eaglet
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flydean1
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« Reply #55 on: May 14, 2019, 07:52:26 PM »

Rule for indoor:  get it turning first!
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steveneill
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« Reply #56 on: May 14, 2019, 09:46:44 PM »

It turns to the right well. However it has a Gimzo Nose button so I have a lot of adjustment I can do.
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lincoln
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« Reply #57 on: May 16, 2019, 04:38:51 AM »

If it gets off the ground on only 100 turns, I suspect you're using too much rubber. You'll probably smash into the ceiling when would most of the way, unless you back off a lot of turns before launching. How heavy is it and what size prop? A rule of thumb I've used indoors is to wind fully and then back off half the turns. If the model then maintains altitude, without climbing or diving, that combination is probably close. Assuming there's a fair amount of rubber, anyway. Unless the ceiling is quite high, you'll probably have to back off a few turns before launch to stay clear of the ceiling.  I should think, for best performance, the motor should weigh at least 25 percent of the model's weight, but it's possible to fly ok with much less.
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steveneill
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« Reply #58 on: May 16, 2019, 09:28:25 AM »

Again Lincoln thanks for your help on this. I am still learning and experimenting with the rubber motors. I'm using 2 loops, braided. I haven't weighed it but will today.
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lincoln
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« Reply #59 on: May 17, 2019, 01:41:42 AM »

Forgot to mention that your model probably looks better than anything I'd ever build.
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steveneill
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« Reply #60 on: May 17, 2019, 10:35:50 AM »

Well thank thank you but pictures can be deceiving. I built it kind of fast because I had this indoor sight local to check out this Saturday. If the sight works it will be our indoor home for our FAC squadron. But overall it's a solid and straight build. I don't like how the dope worked on the colored tissue. I need to get better at that. The arrow kind of faded.

I spent a long time with the rubber motor experimenting yesterday. I made a couple of 1/8 single loop motors and I braided and tested them on a winding stooge. With one of them I got 500 turns and bang zoom it exploded. It broke in the middle and not on the knot. Must have been a weak spot in the rubber the other motors got well past 500 turns.

Always best to test your motors out of the plane first IMHO. Wink

I idea is to get on some test glides, get it to turn, wind it up 300 turns and give it a go. As it is she tends to turn to the right. I have right trust and a bit of down in the Gizmo.
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