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Author Topic: Hawker Typhoon 1:12 scale  (Read 1875 times)
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3view
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« on: May 05, 2019, 04:18:35 PM »

I've kept quiet on this one, until now that it has flown... sorry no flying shots!

A Hawker Typhoon for electric power.

Trimming quickly progressed to powered glides. Just a little bit more power setting and then a little bit more time setting was enough to reach the limit of my small field. Quite lucky not to lose/damage it.  I hope to get it properly flying at the FF Nationals in a few weeks time.


The model is stabilised in both roll and pitch. There is a 2.4G radio link for motor cut-off.  Unpainted weight is 750g, 26oz.

Has anyone any thoughts on how to make cannons that won't remove the eyes of bystanders?  



Steve  
Attached files Thumbnail(s):
Hawker Typhoon 1:12 scale
Hawker Typhoon 1:12 scale
Hawker Typhoon 1:12 scale
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Squirrelnet
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« Reply #1 on: May 05, 2019, 04:43:45 PM »

Very impressive Steve, look forward to seeing it at the nationals
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Monz
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« Reply #2 on: May 05, 2019, 05:08:11 PM »

Very cool Steve. Any details on the motor/timer etc? And colour scheme?
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3view
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« Reply #3 on: May 05, 2019, 05:19:49 PM »

Thanks Squirrelnet and Monz.

Here's a few pics of the fuselage construction and the drone motor.  I've used a drone pancake motor to keep the weight well forward with the 900mAh 3cell pack directly behind it.


The timer is a kpaero electric timer modified for the radio cutoff.  There is a generic 18A esc and a Orange Rx for the cutoff.

The motor is an Emax 3506 650kV and an 11x5 prop (to start with).

Steve
Attached files Thumbnail(s):
Re: Hawker Typhoon 1:12 scale
Re: Hawker Typhoon 1:12 scale
Re: Hawker Typhoon 1:12 scale
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billdennis747
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« Reply #4 on: May 05, 2019, 05:50:19 PM »

Crikey! As for the cannon - something frangible and replaceable? How does Dave Banks make his pilots - that would do.
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ZK-AUD
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« Reply #5 on: May 05, 2019, 07:47:12 PM »

I'm thinking  a shallow-seated  barrel housing located with internal shirring elastic or a small soft expansion spring. 

Alternatively, as above but with small magnets.  This method would need some sort of internal lanyard or attachment to aid recovery of parts however!
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DHnut
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« Reply #6 on: May 05, 2019, 07:52:32 PM »

Stephen,
            A flexible insert that springs back like a circular piece of rubber glued or pushed into a tube may be a possibility. I have a feeling Doug McHard may have used this approach. I have had this issue with the pitot head and cannon in a FW190D. Have you used your stabilisation systen on this model?
  Ricky
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dputt7
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« Reply #7 on: May 05, 2019, 08:21:53 PM »

           You could mold cannons out of Silicon, just think what the dried silicon looks like after you unblock the tapered applicator, you may even be able to find one about the right size.
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fred
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« Reply #8 on: May 06, 2019, 12:15:21 AM »

Looks great.. in the v first pix even.
So at 1:12th then this is a 42" wingspan model ?
 Biggish certainly..  but it's the stated  26 ounces (did I read that correctly?) that gives pause .
 In My world that's  average RC  with fitted Retracts... territory.
Seems as a surprising mass for a FF  build.
 IMO the 900 mah battery  reads as extra large for FF motor run times .. essential?
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billdennis747
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« Reply #9 on: May 06, 2019, 01:47:11 AM »

           You could mold cannons out of Silicon, just think what the dried silicon looks like after you unblock the tapered applicator, you may even be able to find one about the right size.
A great idea Dave but they would have to be black - you can't paint it!
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dputt7
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« Reply #10 on: May 06, 2019, 02:15:33 AM »

  Black Silicon is available even down here in the colonies https://www.ebay.com.au/p/2-Permatex-81158-Black-RTV-Silicone-All-Purpose-Adhesive-Sealant-3-Oz-Tube-16b/2254365191?iid=152600677805&chn=ps
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3view
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« Reply #11 on: May 06, 2019, 03:44:17 AM »

Thanks for the replies and ideas for making cannon.

You could mold cannons out of Silicon, just think what the dried silicon looks like after you unblock the tapered applicator, you may even be able to find one about the right size

I quite like Dave’s idea.  There are ally tubes built into the wing at each cannon position, so I could push a short length of piano wire into the silicone before it sets?

Have you used your stabilisation systen on this model?

Ricky, yes indeed.

Looks great.. in the v first pix even.
So at 1:12th then this is a 42" wingspan model ?
 Biggish certainly..  but it's the stated  26 ounces (did I read that correctly?) that gives pause .
 In My world that's  average RC  with fitted Retracts... territory.
Seems as a surprising mass for a FF  build.
 IMO the 900 mah battery  reads as extra large for FF motor run times .. essential?

Thanks Fred,  the Typhoon was never going to be a lightweight with all the electronics on board, indeed it could quickly be re-configured for r/c.  Also the very short nose is the reason behind the big battery- beats using lead!

I’ll start to worry about weight when it creeps north of 30oz.

Steve
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Pinto
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« Reply #12 on: May 06, 2019, 07:51:23 AM »

I made some cannon barrels fo my supermarine spiteful from heat shrink tube over a tapered mandrel
As for the weight of the model, P E Normans typhoon weighed 26 oz with a wingspan of 32 inches
and a wingloading of 22oz per sq ft !


    Chris
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3view
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« Reply #13 on: May 06, 2019, 08:39:57 AM »

A solid silicone cannon at 1/12 scale would weigh 8g Shocked

Pinto's heat shrink might work.

Any details on the motor/timer etc? And colour scheme?


EK183 US-A ... was very photogenic, I think it was rolled out for publicity in 1943

Steve
Attached files Thumbnail(s):
Re: Hawker Typhoon 1:12 scale
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Monz
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« Reply #14 on: May 06, 2019, 02:43:27 PM »



Any details on the motor/timer etc? And colour scheme?


EK183 US-A ... was very photogenic, I think it was rolled out for publicity in 1943

Steve

[/quote]


EK has a different canopy to yours?

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billdennis747
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« Reply #15 on: May 06, 2019, 02:56:49 PM »

As for the weight of the model, P E Normans typhoon weighed 26 oz with a wingspan of 32 inches
and a wingloading of 22oz per sq ft !
I built two PE models but was unable to make them as heavy as he did. I remember buying the Typhoon plan and being perplexed by the exhortation to carve the fuselage out of a block of wood and mould it with gummed paper. If that model hit  you, I don't think you'd be worrying about being prodded with the cannon.
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3view
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« Reply #16 on: May 06, 2019, 04:25:13 PM »

I think that the canopy is correct? As far as my modelling skills allow.  EK has a blister to cover the rear view mirror that will have to be replicated.

It's too late to make a bubbletop now as most bubbletops had the larger Tempest tailplane.  I find that the car-door cockpit is quirky and to my mind the 3-bladed prop with the shorter spinner adds to the character. 


Steve
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Monz
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« Reply #17 on: May 06, 2019, 05:40:20 PM »

Apologies Steve. I only glanced at the pics of yours and without the frames on it looked like a bubble canopy.

As you were...
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Prosper
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« Reply #18 on: May 06, 2019, 06:01:39 PM »

Quote from: 3view
I think that the canopy is correct?
I think I see now. When I looked at Steve's photos this a.m. (as a big Tempest fan and Tempest modeller) I thought, eek, the canopy's way too long. But it's the car door type. Once some framing is added it will be just right. If I remember my history, the car-door thing was a fad. If you were a lady pilot in a skirt it was more modest to step out of, but it was a killer if you had to exit in a hurry in a 400kt airstream. I don't know if the Americans came to the same conclusion with the P-39, cos the P-63 (?) Kingcobra had a car door too IIRC.

I like the idea of cannon shrouds held in shallow sockets by some kind of elastic tension. Then the shrouds can be light, much lighter than heat-shrink let alone solid silicone. Even without the elastic tension, papier mache made on a mandril can be tacked in place and considered expendable, s'long as you can find the time to run up a new one.

Stephen. P.S. Monz beat me to it while I was writing: "without the frames on it looked like a bubble canopy." Zackly.
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3view
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« Reply #19 on: May 08, 2019, 05:44:49 AM »

Still umming-and-ahing over cannon.

A few more pics.....


Planking on top of a preformed 1/32 ply doubler.

The one-piece wing is located by dowels at the front and elastic bands at the back. The dowels double as anchor points to the u/c torsion bar.

The battery and esc are in the battery box with the battery up tight against the motor firewall.
The elevator servo and the stabiliser controller are in front of the cg. The stabiliser is on the cg (very important).
The Rx, the timer and the battery connections are in the radiator chin cowl.

Note the old school elevator pushrod- a balsa stick.

Steve
Attached files Thumbnail(s):
Re: Hawker Typhoon 1:12 scale
Re: Hawker Typhoon 1:12 scale
Re: Hawker Typhoon 1:12 scale
Re: Hawker Typhoon 1:12 scale
Re: Hawker Typhoon 1:12 scale
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billdennis747
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« Reply #20 on: May 08, 2019, 06:02:09 AM »

Still umming-and-ahing over cannon.
Steve, the heat-shrink tubing wheeze is best. I've used it to make exhaust shrouds, strut-end boots etc.
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dputt7
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« Reply #21 on: May 08, 2019, 08:37:43 AM »

Still umming-and-ahing over cannon.
Steve, the heat-shrink tubing wheeze is best. I've used it to make exhaust shrouds, strut-end boots etc.
  Yes I agree, my only concern would be keeping them from deforming and drooping, so what about a light spring inside.  Sorry, you probably have enough suggestions, I'll go back to Lurking.
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billdennis747
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« Reply #22 on: May 08, 2019, 08:44:39 AM »

No they won't Dave. They might bend when they hit you!
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3view
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« Reply #23 on: May 08, 2019, 04:08:11 PM »

Heatshrink on order


Trying to avoid this...………...
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Re: Hawker Typhoon 1:12 scale
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Rhys
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« Reply #24 on: May 09, 2019, 01:07:39 AM »

3view,

Nice to see your great work with the Typhoon! You might try making an appropriately shaped (of your machine guns/cannon) mold and injecting spray foam that is used for insulation. The sides of the cannon should cure to a smooth surface (with practise) and able to take airbrushing with either enamel or acrylics. Just a thought.

Rhys
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