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Author Topic: Elmers Glue-All  (Read 839 times)
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Dan Snow
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« on: June 02, 2019, 05:13:40 PM »

I don't remember where I read about this stuff but decided to give it a try. I'm using it on part of my DPC/Aero-werks Fokker E-V and I really like it so far. It grabs fairly quickly but ample time to reposition, dries clear and is a bit flexible.  I was just wondering if others have used it and what were the results?
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flydean1
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« Reply #1 on: June 02, 2019, 05:31:47 PM »

I use Elmers Carpenter's Wood glue.  Unfortunately, it doesn't come in the neat dispenser that Glue-All does.  I actually have to dump out the Glue-All and fill with Wood.

That said, I have also used Glue-All for some time.  Really good for attaching tissue when thinned slightly with water.  You can coat the parts, allow to dry and heat activate, or coat the parts and apply the tissue when glue is still wet.
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lincoln
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« Reply #2 on: June 02, 2019, 06:40:55 PM »

I've used Elmer's now and then for many years. I've got a limited pennyplane that must be 30 years old that was made with imitation Elmer's. When you say Elmer's, I think of the white stuff and not all those other, more recent products. It seems strange when someone says they "read about" it, since it's been part of my environment since before I can remember.

One thing to keep in mind is that Elmer's isn't as water resistant as some glues. And it's a heck of a lot easier to get off your hands than CA or Duck.
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fred
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« Reply #3 on: June 02, 2019, 07:40:13 PM »

Standard White PVA glue ie: Weldbond etc  (as mentioned; precedes all of the more recent adulterations currently available)
Can also be bought in Five Gallon pails.
Not ideal for sanding but certainly No worse than ...Any... of the Titebonds
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scigs30
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« Reply #4 on: September 07, 2019, 12:15:46 PM »

I have used Elmers Glue All since the 70s and it works great. I promise the glue joints will last longer the plane itself, never had any issues.  I use Elmers on my Freeflight, gliders, RC and model rockets.  Makes for a nice clean build without visible glue joints and it is strong.  I also have done a lot of wood working with furniture and white PVA is what we used over the yellow glues.  Now I will say I was not to crazy when Elmers changed their formula but the glue still works great.  Titebond also makes a white translucent PVA that works great with a fast grab time.  I built this 1980s die cut Goldberg Cub in the 80s using nothing but Elmers Glue All and Epoxy where required, she is still up and flying today.
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Larry R.
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« Reply #5 on: September 07, 2019, 06:07:37 PM »

I use Elmer's Glue All for all my primary building.  It does a good job, is available in a lot of stores, and it's reasonably priced.
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Rodger Ramjet
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« Reply #6 on: November 13, 2019, 01:18:59 AM »

How does the Elmer's Glue-All compare to using CA or Balsa Cement when assembling small kits? I have an Aeroflight Hawk on the way that includes Balsa Cement and I have not used that since I was a kid, I don't remember it being very pleasant to work with.

Thanks! - RR
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lincoln
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« Reply #7 on: November 28, 2019, 11:55:30 PM »

I used an imitation of Elmer's on a pennyplane years ago. I would pour out a little puddle in a jar cap or something and apply with a toothpick. Had to pour out a fresh puddle of glue every few minutes, but it's inexpensive stuff. I would prefer Elmer's over CA, but maybe not over Duco, Ambroid, etc. Anyway, Elmer's is fine stuff. I seem to recall a time when Glue All was the only glue Elmer's sold.
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mdpaddler
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« Reply #8 on: December 15, 2019, 06:21:35 AM »

I too use carpenters Wood Glue.
I found small bottles at  JoAnn Fabric and Crafts that work swell.
It is tough and flexible, but a bit heavy for rubber powered planes.
When building an RC plane, it is on my bench for all my first and second fillets after initial assembly with Super Glue.
Oneairplaneguy
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dosco
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« Reply #9 on: July 29, 2020, 12:55:58 PM »

It can be used as an "instant glue" for certain joint geometries ... if you put a thin coat on each side, let it dry, and then hit it with an iron (clothes iron, covering iron, etc.) it will instantly set.

When I learned about that (a long time ago) I used that method to adhere the d-box skin to the wing ribs on a Sig Kadet. It was sort of mind-blowing.

-Dave
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HatzLymanC
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« Reply #10 on: July 29, 2020, 10:44:16 PM »

It has been my go to glue for 50+ years. Have tried most of the others, but keep coming back. Lyman
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JugheadP47
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« Reply #11 on: July 30, 2020, 08:22:33 AM »

I used that method to adhere the d-box skin to the wing ribs on a Sig Kadet. It was sort of mind-blowing.

-Dave


Definitely going to try that.  Doing it with CA is not one of my favorite things.
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kittyfritters
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« Reply #12 on: July 31, 2020, 07:46:33 PM »

There are two ways to make either white PVA or aliphatic resin glues (Tite Bond II or III, Elmer's Carpenters Glue, etc.) set almost instantaneously.   

If you have a structure like the nose block in the pictures you can put it together with PVA or aliphatic resin glue to give yourself sufficient working time to assemble and align it then put it in the microwave for 60 seconds.  If you do this there must be ABSOLUTELY NO METAL in the assembly.  LEAVING IN EVEN A SINGLE PIN WILL RESULT IN A FIRE!  (Third Picture)

If you have to hold the structure together with pins or spring clamps you can put it in a regular oven at 200 degrees (F) for 20 minutes to set the glue.  Don't get to 212 degrees (F) or higher or the water in the glue will boil and the steam may push the joints apart.

KF
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lincoln
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« Reply #13 on: August 01, 2020, 06:38:51 AM »

I think the time setting up to microwave might be better spent on some other part of the model.
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