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Author Topic: Keil kraft Sportster  (Read 438 times)
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prid
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« on: June 16, 2019, 11:34:43 AM »

Hi all,

Been off building for some time, but I now have some free time at weekends, so have started working on a Keil kraft Sportster. I waiting for glue to dry as I write this post.

I have a couple of questions for you all, 1st is should I put a finish over the balsa Wood?
The 2nd is how big a lop of rubber should I use?

Thanks for your help

Stu
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lincoln
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« Reply #1 on: June 16, 2019, 05:10:49 PM »

IMHO, whether to finish depends on whether you'll fly it indoors,or outdoors. I like Sig Sanding sealer. I'm guessing there may be something similar, with a different name, on your side of the pond.

Rubber size will depend on prop and weight. 1/8?Huh??


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prid
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« Reply #2 on: June 17, 2019, 07:04:48 AM »

IMHO, whether to finish depends on whether you'll fly it indoors,or outdoors. I like Sig Sanding sealer. I'm guessing there may be something similar, with a different name, on your side of the pond.

Rubber size will depend on prop and weight. 1/8?Huh??




Thanks for your advice  Smiley
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prid
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« Reply #3 on: June 17, 2019, 05:53:41 PM »

Hi all,
The little bird is built  Smiley
Attached files Thumbnail(s):
Re: Keil kraft Sportster
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Pete Fardell
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« Reply #4 on: June 17, 2019, 07:09:03 PM »

Looks nice. Good job!
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prid
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« Reply #5 on: June 18, 2019, 11:21:16 AM »

Looks nice. Good job!

Thanks
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DavidJP
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« Reply #6 on: June 19, 2019, 04:32:54 AM »

That looks very neat!  On the finish it all depends I suppose on what you want too achieve.  I wold suggest keep it light in weight so I would opt for simply doped on tissue but do be careful to pin down the surfaces and leave to dry thoroughly - overnight at least.  Otherwise sanding sealer - but would not rate this highly for that kind of model.  You could mix your own - talcum powder and thinned clear dope.
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OZPAF
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« Reply #7 on: June 20, 2019, 04:52:26 AM »

You have made a very tempting model Prid - congratulations'

An alternative to using dope on balsa is to use a wiped on finish of polyurethane wood varnish. I use a marine spar varnish but any clear varnish should work. The trick is not to paint it on but liberally wipe it on a section of the model, rub it in a bit and then immediately wipe it off leaving the surface just coated.

It seems to take a couple of days to fully dry and go hard but will then sand with 400 grit and finer if desired to a very smooth light finish and then trim paint can then be added if desired . I have been using this method for a number of years now on my Cat Launched Gliders although it's not my idea - it came out of the American FF scene - used by people like Lee Hines.

It gives a degree of moisture protection as well.

John
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prid
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« Reply #8 on: June 21, 2019, 07:23:58 AM »


Thank you all for the nice comments and good advice  Smiley
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