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Author Topic: DPCM Sopwith Pup  (Read 3506 times)
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Russ Lister
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« Reply #25 on: October 20, 2019, 07:30:50 AM »

Look forward to your updates, Paul.
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Squirrelnet
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« Reply #26 on: October 20, 2019, 01:11:51 PM »

I look forward to catching up on the Bf 109 too paul.

I think I'm about ready to start covering. I think I'll try pre shrunk tissue on the tail and fin as they look so delicate. Thinking about it, I might add an extra rib to the tail to take the rigging points.... not sure

The kit goes together very well as I think I've said before with construction easy to follow. The only omission I've found on the plan is there is no front view, so to set up the undercarriage I had to consult the scale drawing. With the undercarriage sides built as per the plan the axle length between the legs should be 61mm to get the correct angle viewed from the front. The undercarriage has been made as an assembly using a template I made from 1/8" balsa but I wont fix to the model until its been covered and painted

The cowling is now looking a bit better having been cut to shape. I was thinking of replacing the front face with 1/64' ply to give a thin edge but looking at it now I think I will stick with the balsa front , with some shaping and painting to inside I hope I can give that impression. I've also added a couple of neodyme magnets to the rear face to hold the cowling on. The cut away portion on this version does mean I'll have to make a bit of dummy engine so it looks the part but that sounds good to me.

After some searching on the net I managed to find a good flat on shot of the dashboard, which resized and fiddled with a bit in PS so prints out a reasonable impression. I've included my modified jpeg in the images which hopefully retains the correct size for the 16" DPC Pup and should print out ok ( its 300dpi) if anyone wants one. The compass is on a mount so its stands proud of the dash which I hope to replicate with a spacer with the compass print cut out and stuck to the front of it.


I've even managed to find a pilot brave enough to fly it  Grin

Chris
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« Last Edit: October 20, 2019, 01:23:34 PM by Squirrelnet » Logged
ZK-AUD
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« Reply #27 on: October 20, 2019, 02:45:05 PM »

Chris on the VMC Sopwith Triplane thread you can see how I approached the engine and nose end of things from reply#32 - 43.  Just a different approach you may be interested in.

Cheers, Mike

https://www.hippocketaeronautics.com/hpa_forum/index.php?topic=22407.25
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Squirrelnet
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« Reply #28 on: October 20, 2019, 02:55:06 PM »

Thanks Mike I'll have a look at the thread

Chris
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vintagemike
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« Reply #29 on: October 21, 2019, 04:12:48 AM »

Chris, where did you get the tube you used for the tyres?
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Squirrelnet
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« Reply #30 on: October 21, 2019, 04:37:21 AM »

Hi Mike

eBay

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F222734743289
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vintagemike
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« Reply #31 on: October 21, 2019, 06:12:43 AM »

OK now got that, thanks
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Squirrelnet
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« Reply #32 on: October 25, 2019, 01:44:49 PM »

The Pup has had a bit done to it today, not something I usually get the chance to do during the working week but hey things are going well and we are ahead so I sneaked off early... and went in late  Roll Eyes

I made a start on covering with white Esaki tissue and gave the painted parts an undercoat of grey, hmm should of used light grey, anyway it's starting to come together.

Not sure how to assemble the wings, the bottom ones set the wing incidence which the strut length should transfer to the top but I think I will mount the bottom wings and then make some jigs from foam board so I can set the cabane and centre section up more accurately and match the top wing incidence to the bottom.

Shame the weather has put paid to the Credgington Trophy FF Scale comp at Barkstone Heath this weekend but looking at the weather at the moment  ( its raining blowing a gale ) an alternative day in the workshop sounds very attractive  Wink
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Squirrelnet
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« Reply #33 on: October 26, 2019, 01:13:34 PM »

I got the Pup covered today, I still need to dope it and its still drying from being water shrunk but pleased to have got that far.

I've used a few different methods for the different parts. The tail and fin are very delicate so I have pre shrunk some tissue over an old picture frame. The tail and fin were then given a coat of 30/70 non shrinking dope and stuck to tissue whilst it's still on the frame. Once it dried I cut them out and sealed the overlap edges, coated the other side and stuck them back on the remaining tissue in the frame. They have been water shrunk again, hopefully this time as most of the shrink has been done on the tissue it will just tighten the surface and not distort it. Then when dry they'll get a coat of 30/70 non shrinking dope.

The wings are conventionally covered using a tiny amount of tissue paste to stick the tissue on, wetting the tips to get them to conform to curves and then water shrunk. They then get a coat of 30/70 non shrinking dope. I've added a 1/16" washout to top and bottom wings.  The fuselage has been doped with some 50/50 shrinking dope for added strength and to give a nice tight finish.

I also had a rethink about the position of rear peg . I was worried that with so much rubber behind the CG it may need a lot of nose weight so I decided to cut the covering off I applied yesterday and moved the peg one bay forward and recovered.  

I might even get some paint on it tomorrow


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« Last Edit: October 26, 2019, 02:38:58 PM by Squirrelnet » Logged
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« Reply #34 on: October 26, 2019, 05:19:33 PM »

 Chris

The current issue of Classic Wings (Issue 113,  Vol. 24,  No.5 ) contains a reader letter about G-EAVX (page 17) and a feature article about surviving Pups beginning on page 44 that includes G-EAVX (B1807).

Paul
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Squirrelnet
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« Reply #35 on: October 27, 2019, 02:06:11 PM »

Thanks Paul. Classic Wings is not a publication I'm familiar with but I will search that out.

The covering continues with Pup. My attempt at preshrunk tissue came out pretty lousy in the end , I even left the TP in the airing cupboard for a few hours and it still came very slack, the rigidity seemed quite poor in the tail so even using this method there was a warp in it... so.. I decided to make another tailplane. There  must be a knack to using preshrunk tissue which I clearly don't have. It looked great ... so long as there was a hairdryer pointing at it !

This time I made the edging from 1/32" x 1/16" laminated together to give 1/16" using a couple of steel rules to keep things straight . In addition I changed the construction slightly to continue the 'ribs' across the mainspar. I also added another 'rib' to the front so I have something to attach the tail rigging to. The tailplane is now considerably stiffer. I have covered this in straight Esaki and it looks better already. It's now drying having been water shrunk, hopefully it will keep its shape Undecided

At the front end I made up a nose block, which will be a representation of the Le Rhone crankcase. I'm using a KP adjustable nose bush which gives 5 deg down thrust max so I have added and extra deg into the construction to give a max of 6 deg just in case. The prop shaft still clears the rear of cowling locating  plug as supplied in the kit.

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« Last Edit: October 27, 2019, 03:30:27 PM by Squirrelnet » Logged
Pete Fardell
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« Reply #36 on: October 27, 2019, 02:35:23 PM »

Looking very good, Chris. This is going to be a lovely model. I’ll be interested to see how you get on with the KP thrust button. Surely 6 degrees will be enough downthrust!
And I’m glad I’m not the only one who hasn’t got the hang of covering with preshrunk tissue. I think there must be witchcraft involved somewhere. (But steam shrinking once on and then banana oil is the way for me now, with very small models at least.)
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Squirrelnet
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« Reply #37 on: October 27, 2019, 03:36:35 PM »

Thanks Pete. I've used KP nose buttons an all my rubber models so far.. even the Skokie. They work very well, though I tend to pop them out of the nose block to adjust them, usually just using tweezers or my fingers to turn the various eccentric bushes. The Skokie with its 3/16" rubber is probably as far as you can take them without them self destructing due to the torque of the motor and popping apart. I'm hoping 6 deg is way too much but have you seen Mike Smith's Snipe !!!

Maybe I should try the steam shrink and banana oil method too. For the Pup I'll stick with water shrink and 30/70 non shrinking dope as the rest of the airframe.

Chris
« Last Edit: October 27, 2019, 04:10:06 PM by Squirrelnet » Logged
Jack Plane
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« Reply #38 on: October 27, 2019, 04:22:54 PM »

Chris, for what its worth:

I steam pre-shrink using two or three smaller frames for than the one large you seem to have (not that it should make much difference?), then I steam shrink again once the tissue is on the components, pinning down flying surfaces of course.

Doping I just do two coats of non-shrinking, each thinned 50%.

In each case (shrinking and then doping) I'm meticulous about pinning the components down raised on balsa shims (wrapped in sellotape) so that air can flow evenly on both sides for balanced drying.  I try to shim+pin in as many places as possible (i.e. at each joint) and then leave things in place at least overnight so stresses can work themselves out - especially the tail parts!

Your Pup is looking very promising - just make every effort you can not to add unnecessary weight! Smiley  I have the same kit which is almost next on my building schedule, either for CO2 or electric.

Jon
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« Last Edit: October 27, 2019, 04:33:30 PM by Jack Plane » Logged
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« Reply #39 on: October 27, 2019, 05:37:29 PM »

Thanks Paul. Classic Wings is not a publication I'm familiar with but I will search that out.

...


See:

https://www.classicwings.com/

I have subscribed for years and have most issues in my library. The beauty of this magazine is that it is NOT military aircraft centric unlike many others.

The latest issue that I mentioned (Issue 113,  Vol. 24,  No.5 ) does not yet appear in the list of editions onn the web site but I expect it will do so soon.

The front cover of Issue 113 features a full size diorama of a Hudson bomber in a jungle setting that was recent constructed at the Aviation Heritage Centre, Omaka, New Zealand.

The centre spread is a flying shot of an original DH.9 bomber.

Other articles include:

A pilots report about flying an original Hanriot HD.1 which includes colour in flight photographs;

Sopwith Pup survivors, and;

Surviving Caudron CR.714 fighters.

Other shorter articles and reports include:
* restoration news from around the world;
* aviation book reviews;
* the Paris-Villaroche Air Legend air show;
* the De Havilland fly-in at Caboolture, Queensland;
* Old Warden Military Airshow, 7th July 2019;
* EAA Airventure, Oshkosh, 2019;
* Lockheed Hudson survivor, NZ2049;
* Thunder Over Michigan air show;

This type of content is typical of all issues, some containing more civilian stuff and some containing more military stuff.

Overall a good balance in my view.

For what it may be worth

Paul

BTW; I do not have shares in Classic wings. I just think Graham Orphan and his crew are doing a great job. They also run a really good bi-annual air show at Omaka airfield on alternate years to the Warbirds over Wanaka air show.




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Squirrelnet
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« Reply #40 on: October 28, 2019, 03:33:38 AM »

Thanks again Paul, I'll check it out.

Jon - Thanks for the method I will try again with preshunk tissue at some stage. I think, having time to think about it, I over shrank the tissue in the first place on the frame as I used a water spray rather than steaming it. There was not enough shrink left to produce a tight finish on the model. I do normally pin stuff down as you describe but I had given up on the tail when I took the pic wondered if I pin it flat and left it in the airing cupboard will it tighten up ? ...it didn't.

Hmm extra weight  Embarrassed the laminated spars will add a bit and just where I dont need it but I now have a flat tail so I'll take the hit  Undecided

Chris
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« Reply #41 on: November 01, 2019, 02:31:35 PM »

I had an unexpected chance to get a bit more done on the Pup today.

Covering completed it was time to get out the cardboard spray booth. Its an interesting scheme using 7 different colours so good to get the first couple on the model.

At the front end some cylinders were made up by printing out parts of the Le Rhone card model available online which I rescaled to give the correct 1/4" dia cylinders for this near 1/20th scale model. Ive attached the scaled image for anyone interested. The cylinders will be from 1/4" balsa dowel painted black and wound with silver thread, for the intake tubes I'll use the card ones from the paper kit

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« Reply #42 on: November 02, 2019, 02:16:42 PM »

Lovely weather here today  Embarrassed so more time in the workshop  Grin

The original I'm modelling had the larger Monosaupape engine and larger cowling when it left the factory but by the time it flew in The Hendon Aerial Derby it had a Le Rhone fitted with its distinctive intake tubes.

 To give an impression I've borrowed a technique I saw on another Pup by Justin Baldwin. I don't think he posts on here but just in case - thanks for idea  Wink

The cylinders are 1/4" balsa dowel painted black and wound with silver metallic thread. A blob of cyno holds the thread in place and whilst still on the main dowel shaft the thread is wound until the right length for cylinder is reached. Another blob of cyno fixes the other end and when dry the cylinder is parted from the shaft with a razor blade. These are then cyno'd to the cranckcase/nose block, I had to insert the nose block into the cowl to fit most of the cylinders as it won't fit in once all the cylinders are attached. Once all were attached I fixed the nose block the cowling with Superphatic, the whole cowling forms the removable nose block.

 The intake tubes are from the paper kit, cut out, cyno'd on and given a coat of copper enamel paint. The cylinders heads with valve gear fitted to the four visible cylinders are also from the paper kit which I printed out onto grey card. The pushrods are bristles from my stiff boom painted black ( hopefully no one will notice the missing bristles  Wink )

 I did a bit more painting mostly using NIVO green. I think the ex- service aircraft was partly repainted for its racing career but many parts were left in the original finish. NIVO I have learnt is Night Invisible Varnish Orford Ness and was used on night fighters as they believed it gave the best camouflage at night, only after it was in use did they discover that it is reflective and showed up quite well in search light. This aircraft had a dodgy repair to the top wing over which the registration letters were painted over so did a grey patch for that too
 


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Pete Fardell
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« Reply #43 on: November 02, 2019, 02:31:29 PM »

Looking good, Chris. The engine detail is very effective, and I do like a subject aircraft with an interesting story; it's going to be a very distinctive Pup this one!
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« Reply #44 on: November 02, 2019, 03:57:49 PM »

I second that!
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Russ Lister
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« Reply #45 on: November 02, 2019, 04:19:04 PM »

Yes, very effective engine.

Btw .... is the fuselage painted in TBB? Very effective camouflage  Grin
(I will deserve the abuse I get!)
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Squirrelnet
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« Reply #46 on: November 02, 2019, 04:37:11 PM »

Quote
TBB?

Huh??
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Russ Lister
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« Reply #47 on: November 02, 2019, 04:48:27 PM »

Tool Box Blue ..... sorry!
I did have to zoom in on the one photo to separate model from box .... should I buy a new phone?!
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« Reply #48 on: November 02, 2019, 06:38:17 PM »

The engine looks neat Chris. Very neat trick using the silver thread on a black rod. I noticed that your tail plane still looks warp free - it was worth the rebuild.

John
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« Reply #49 on: November 09, 2019, 01:53:22 PM »

John - yes TP still flat  Grin infact I just sprayed it and it's still flat  Grin Grin

Russ - The Pup is getting increasingly garish so it's getting easier to spot it against the toolbox

 A bit more painting today during another day when rain hammered on the workshop roof. I have the silver done just the white to do and the decals to cut from some decal paper I sprayed earlier. I fitted the wheels too, but I'll leave gluing the UC on until I fitted the wings.

I think the front end is ready to paint now as well having added the Monosaupape strengthening and vents from plasticard and balsa respectively
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