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Author Topic: Trimming capacitor powered model  (Read 3053 times)
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Glidiator
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« Reply #25 on: July 17, 2018, 12:43:52 PM »

Sorry Anant for the slow response.  I've been away from my computer for several days.

The first photo show my present capacitor plane setup.  The motor is a 6mm with a 25:1 planetary gear reduction swinging a 10 inch prop.  The capacitor is 10F 2.7 volt.  The switch is a micro two position switch.  In the forward position, the capacitor is connected to the motor.   The rear position connects the capacitor to the charging wire, which is the wire towards the rear with the polarized connector.

The second photo is of the plane itself.  18 inches span, 106 square inch wing with a total weight of 10 grams.  (I figure that I can trim about two grams from that weight with a little effort.)  So far I've been able to get flights of two and a half to three minutes under a 25 foot ceiling with a 3.5v charge.   

I'm not advocating that a gear reduction is the best approach to long capacitor powered flights.  It seems to work well for me where the ceiling height is limited.    A super light direct drive setup may be the way to go outdoors or under high ceilings.

   George


Hi George,

I like the saddle type arrangement for attaching the wing to the fuselage. But with that setup how do you adjust incidence if required during trimming.
Will also put a micro switch between capacitor and motor in my setup too.
Anant
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raggedflyer
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« Reply #26 on: July 17, 2018, 01:18:52 PM »

Thanks George, will delve deeper.
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ghcrash
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« Reply #27 on: July 17, 2018, 11:12:24 PM »


[/quote]

Hi George,

I like the saddle type arrangement for attaching the wing to the fuselage. But with that setup how do you adjust incidence if required during trimming.
Will also put a micro switch between capacitor and motor in my setup too.
Anant
[/quote]

 The incidence can be adjusted by inserting a thin shim between the wing saddle and the fuselage at either the front or back of the saddle.   The saddle is designed so that there is about two degrees incidence and, as yet, I haven't found much need to change it.  I do all my trimming by sliding the wing forward or back on the fuselage; in effect changing the CG location. 
 
There is a small rudder attached to the fin with brass wire that is used to adjust the turning characteristics of the plane,  but the large diameter, high pitch prop provides most of the force necessary for a left circle, the rudder is set almost straight.

  George
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George
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« Reply #28 on: July 22, 2018, 05:30:55 AM »

Hi George,
Finally hooked up the voltage regulator. Both buttons on either side of the digital display work fine as explained by you.
But the small screw to regulate the output voltage seems to have no effect at all. How much does one turn it to regulate the voltage.
I hooked it up to a regular 9v alkaline battery. All that happens is that as the input voltage dropped due to continuous use the out put reduced a bit accordingly.
I was aiming to step down the output voltage to about 3.5 to 4 volts. But no amount of turning the screw on the blue component had any results.
Is that component defective? Could be considering how cheap I got it for.
Any suggestions.
Will also take it to a guy I know who repairs computer PCBs and other electronic stuff.
Anant
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ghcrash
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« Reply #29 on: July 22, 2018, 06:14:47 AM »

Anant,

I  don't know how much twisting on the adjustment screw you have done but I suspect that the step down regulator you have has a wide output voltage range, 0 to 32 volts or something like that, and it takes a lot of turning to get the output voltage in the range you want.     Mine does.     Try turning the screw out, counterclockwise, several turns.   You should see the output voltage start to drop at some point.
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George
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« Reply #30 on: July 22, 2018, 08:03:58 AM »

Will give it a good amount of turns and see what happens.
This is the product description
Says 4 to 40 volts so the range is wide

Adjustable DC-DC LM 2596 Converter Buck Step Down Regulator Power Module

Description:
100% New and High Quality
voltage range: 4-40 v (40 v to limit the highest voltage)
Output voltage range:1.25V - 37V (decompression mode, input output must be greater than 2 V above)
Output current: 2 A continuous output
Output power: the maximum 15 w
Ripple frequency: 150 KHZ
Grain wave peak: 100 mv
Voltmeter precision: ± 5 ‰
Static power: 20 ma (and input voltage output voltage and digital tube color is closely related to the actual current will exist deviation)
Weight: 33g.
Size:5.5*3.5cm
With voltage display function, the displayed accuracy is ± 0.05V, range is 0 - 40V.
( Note: in order to voltage display more accurate, please ensure that the input voltage is higher than 4V)
Button to switch measurement of the input or output voltage,and LED indicates the current measurement of the input or output voltage;The nixie tube can be turned off by another button.
Mentioned in these states are able to be memorized, is not lost even if the power is disconnected.
Continuously adjustable output voltage range of 1.25V -37V, 4-40V input voltage range.
(The input voltage is at least high than the output voltage of 1.5V)
High efficiency,150 kHz fixed frequency internal oscillator.
Guaranteed 3A output load current.
Thermal shutdown and current limit protection
IN + : input positive/IN - : input negative
OUT + : output positive/OUT - : output negative
Package Includes:
1 X DC to DC Step Down Converter Module LM2596 Voltage Regulator Voltmeter 4V-40V
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Glidiator
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« Reply #31 on: July 22, 2018, 08:06:51 AM »

Will hook it up to the house mains through a 22ov AC to
9v 720 Manos converter.
This will give me a steady input voltage and can see what happens on turning the screw several times.
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Glidiator
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« Reply #32 on: July 22, 2018, 08:08:19 AM »

Typo
220v AC to 9V DC 720 milliamps.
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Glidiator
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« Reply #33 on: July 22, 2018, 08:36:52 AM »

Hi George,0
Just tested it through my AC/DC transformer.
Gave a steady 15V input -- the output adjustment screw works fine. Just a few turns to get it down to 4V.
But I guess if the input is lower through a battery then a little adjustment will need to be done to get desired output. Product data says the minimum difference between input and output should be 1.5 v.
I think what is required is a good steady input source of more than 5 volts.
Anant
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Glidiator
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« Reply #34 on: October 26, 2018, 10:11:12 AM »

Hi all

Finally got down to doing some test flights with this Cap Basic model.
Charged the cap without voltage regulator. First flight had too much charge and the model climbed steeply and got stuck in the rafters. Luckily came loose on its own without any damage.
Then gave much less charge and reduced the wing incidence and stab angle to avoid steep climb.

Got some decent short flights using very less charging time. Did not want a hung up model again. Had a very short available time in the indoor space.
With the voltage regulator should be able to trim it to give around a minutes flight.
A larger indoor venue would also be better.

https://youtu.be/SyFfWydN7c0

https://youtu.be/wuDLg6cuYKo

Anant
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Glidiator
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« Reply #35 on: October 26, 2018, 10:56:32 AM »

Hi all,

The previous reply showed some error.
The change over to new server may be the reason. Lets see if this one goes thru.

Finally got to doing some test flights. Did not hook up the voltage regulator. Just gave an approx 10 sec charge for first flight. Model climbed steeply and got stuck in the rafters. Luckily came loose on its own without any damage.

Subsequent flights gave half the time in charge. Did not want to risk getting stuck again. Also reduced wing incidence and stab negative incidence to reduce rate of climb.

Got about 30 secs of fairly decent flights. The time available in the indoor space was also limited.
More trimming and use of voltage regulator should give better consistent results. A larger indoor space will also enable longer flights as can give more charge.

Video links

https://youtu.be/SyFfWydN7c0

https://youtu.be/wuDLg6cuYKo

Anant


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ghcrash
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« Reply #36 on: December 14, 2018, 12:31:55 AM »


Just checking in Anant to see what progress you have made with your capacitor plane.

What are you getting for flight times now?  What size capacitor are you using?


   George
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George
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« Reply #37 on: December 14, 2018, 03:54:15 AM »

Hi George

Aeromodelling forays have taken a bit of a back seat the past month.
Other committments have now settled down. Need to get back to doing some long serious test flights and building new models.
Came upon a YouTube channel “sonex413” where they’ve done quite a bit of capacitor powered models including multi engine ones. Have a look.
Will keep you posted.
Anant
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Glidiator
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« Reply #38 on: June 26, 2019, 09:19:23 AM »

Hi all,
A big break in my aeromodelling activities.
Getting back into things slowly.
Had the opportunity to do some flying in a large indoor space.
Besides some of my rubber models I got my capacitor model out.
The flight started well and it was cruising along till the trailing edge of the wing suddenly came off the wing post. The small bit of tape I had put to hold the tissue tube at the correct angle of incidence was not sticky enough and came of during flight and the wing came off the post and the model nose dived.
Learnt a good lesson not to leave anything to chance.
Video link of that flight— not very good quality - was a screen shot of the actual video— will be getting the original recording soon.

https://youtu.be/ALzh9ZLRan4

Anant
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frash
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« Reply #39 on: June 26, 2019, 11:34:39 AM »

Anant,

Your plane and your flight looked quite good until the tape joint failed. Maybe the repair will not be too bad.

Yes, I too have a cap plane that needs wing post or wing socket repair, but due to clumsy handling, not failure in flight.

Fred Rash
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ghcrash
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« Reply #40 on: June 26, 2019, 01:44:44 PM »

 Excellent work Anant!

Would you mind posting some details about the airplane?  What are you using for a prop?

   George
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George
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« Reply #41 on: June 28, 2019, 12:20:51 AM »

Excellent work Anant!

Would you mind posting some details about the airplane?  What are you using for a prop?

   George

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Glidiator
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« Reply #42 on: June 28, 2019, 12:44:34 AM »

Excellent work Anant!

Would you mind posting some details about the airplane?  What are you using for a prop?

   George
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Glidiator
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« Reply #43 on: June 28, 2019, 12:49:22 AM »

Something wrong in my last posts
The model us called the Cap Basic. Will post plan. Was it from the plan gallery? Don’t remember.
The propeller came with the reduction gear set I bought on eBay.  Will check prop dia and post
Link below

https://www.ebay.com/itm/720-Deceleration-Group-DIY-Fixed-Wing-Aircraft-Module-Reduction-Motor/392011217560?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3Db1427c6ba3914f5587ba0b3d249c48ea%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D9%26sd%3D163339223708%26itm%3D392011217560&_trksid=p2481888.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3A34d9bb77-9018-11e9-a0a9-74dbd180d4ef%7Cparentrq%3A5f97fec016b0a9cc71d4eb78ffd3cebd%7Ciid%3A1
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Glidiator
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« Reply #44 on: June 28, 2019, 01:37:22 AM »

The Cap Basic plan.
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