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Author Topic: Covering question  (Read 381 times)
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bbdave
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« on: July 24, 2019, 05:39:10 AM »

I am building an rc 48" bird dog but not sure what to cover it in I guess the easiest thing would be something I can paint as I want a mat finish to my paint scheme all the iron on stuff looks to be gloss.

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cvasecuk
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« Reply #1 on: July 24, 2019, 05:55:25 AM »

Try heaviweight Esaki from Mike Woodhouse.
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RalphS
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« Reply #2 on: July 24, 2019, 08:07:24 AM »

I would recommend adding an extra stage.  I have used mylar and esaki tissue over 5m mylar for years.  I built a cheap (£30) Piper J3 kit for r/c and wanted a tougher covering.  I had previously used "Flower wrap cellophane" - the sort that flower shops use to wrap flowers instead of 5m mylar on F1H models with no problems. For the J3 - similar 48" span to your's - I used clear flower wrap fixed with contact adhesive, heat shrunk and overlaid with doped on heavyweight modelspan type tissue.  2 coats of thin dope (3 would have been better) 1 aerosol coat of Halford's white primer and two light coats of coloured aerosol paint from the local car touch up paint retailer.

Depending on how long you expect the model to last, heavily doped tissue will go brittle and can tear whereas tissue over a plastic covering (flower wrap, mylar, doculam) will last for years.

Windows are always a problem on scale models but with the transparent plastic coverings it is so easy to cover the whole fuselage side in one piece and tissue around the framework.
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flydean1
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« Reply #3 on: July 24, 2019, 08:16:22 AM »

I'm a fan of tissue over mylar.  Covered a 1/2A Gas model that way.  One of the local "experts" made a negative comment of having to "cover a model twice".  Due to pilot error, the model crashed.  Now I had a "sample" .  Handed him a piece of 1/4 mil mylar.  He tore it easily.  Next a piece of doped tissue, again easily torn.  Then a piece of tissue & mylar from the now-destroyed wing.  He couldn't tear the combination with his bare hands!

Somehow, and the engineering types could better explain, the combination merges the strengths of both materials to become far stronger than the individual parts.

Mike Woodhouse has tutorials on his website.
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Konrad
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« Reply #4 on: July 24, 2019, 01:40:43 PM »

This Mike?
https://www.freeflightsupplies.co.uk/index.php/products/how-to-do-it-publications
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Cut it twice and it's still too short!
bbdave
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« Reply #5 on: July 25, 2019, 01:28:55 AM »

Ok I think I'll try this and it's way cheaper than iron on films.

Dave
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DavidJP
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« Reply #6 on: July 25, 2019, 07:24:36 AM »

I am a big fan of tissue over Mylar (once I mastered applying it - Easy actually my daftness that was the problem) but Woodhouse also has polyester tissue which is good and very tough.  Takes acrylic well too - I used a cheap artists paint by the way which has lasted well.
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bbdave
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« Reply #7 on: July 25, 2019, 05:02:26 PM »

I am a big fan of tissue over Mylar (once I mastered applying it - Easy actually my daftness that was the problem) but Woodhouse also has polyester tissue which is good and very tough.  Takes acrylic well too - I used a cheap artists paint by the way which has lasted well.

What weight of mylar I guess 15micron would be best is polyester tissue applied the same way?

Dave
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lincoln
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« Reply #8 on: July 25, 2019, 08:30:51 PM »

For a while, I was corresponding with a guy who covers his models with tracing paper. I used to like Micafilm, but it isn't made any more. Fibafilm is supposed to be similar, but I don't know if it's still around. For either, I'd recommend Stix It to apply it with. Micafilm, at least, requires a bit more care in application than many films do. Doesn't shrink as much.

Then there's silk! I don't know about the UK, but in the US, you can get light silk for reasonable prices from fabric importers. I'm not sure, but I think Habotai is supposed to be the right flavor. One of those things I've been meaning to try for years.
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