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Author Topic: De Schelde Scheldemeeuw for indoor rubber  (Read 1250 times)
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korale
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« on: August 26, 2019, 03:52:52 AM »

I liked this model the first time I saw it and wanted to build one.
There is a plan for a CO2 powered version on Outerzone.co.uk but it is inaccurate.
I managed to find a three view on-line and drew up my own plans, it will be rubber powered and 16inches.

Started building a few weeks ago I took pictures at most stages, progress pics to follow.
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De Schelde Scheldemeeuw for indoor rubber
De Schelde Scheldemeeuw for indoor rubber
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korale
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« Reply #1 on: August 26, 2019, 03:54:55 AM »

Basic Fuselage and flying surfaces
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korale
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« Reply #2 on: August 26, 2019, 03:59:55 AM »

(mostly) finished fuselage
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korale
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« Reply #3 on: August 26, 2019, 04:05:10 AM »

Bones,

weighs 8g at this point.

I have covered and water shrunk the tissue need to dope it and get it glued up.

looks like the end weight will be in the range of 12-15 g
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TheLurker
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« Reply #4 on: August 26, 2019, 11:59:27 AM »

Looking good.
A bit of an odd duck, well gull, but I can see why you'd want to build one.
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TimWescott
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« Reply #5 on: August 26, 2019, 02:52:05 PM »

Looking good.
A bit of an odd duck, well gull, but I can see why you'd want to build one.

  • Biplane
  • Seaplane
  • Pusher
  • Leading edge slats

What do you mean, "odd"?
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TheLurker
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« Reply #6 on: August 26, 2019, 04:05:26 PM »

Looking good.
A bit of an odd duck, well gull, but I can see why you'd want to build one.

  • Biplane
  • Seaplane
  • Pusher
  • Leading edge slats

What do you mean, "odd"?
The prosecution rests m'lud.   Smiley
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korale
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« Reply #7 on: August 26, 2019, 06:37:09 PM »

I plan on leaving the  leading edge slats off at this stage,  if it behaves well in flight I'll consider adding them.
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dputt7
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« Reply #8 on: August 26, 2019, 08:25:06 PM »

  Looks great! I guess you will use a Motor stick?  I built a Brandenburg CC which is a similar layout many years ago and used my version of the "Moore Drive" and some plastic return gears. It worked OK but at 16'' span it needed 1/4 rubber and could just manage 1 circuit of the hall Grin  Looking forward to more progress.
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korale
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« Reply #9 on: September 03, 2019, 08:20:28 PM »

I'm having a  big problem with blushing.
I have recovered some of the worst areas but the blush is still there.  I have never had this problem before and am not sure what is causing it.

I would love to see some pictures of the Moore drive setup if you have any
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dputt7
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« Reply #10 on: September 03, 2019, 08:52:46 PM »

  I don't have any photos but I will try and cobble up a drawing.
  In regards to blushing I have had the same problem with 2 recent builds,  I use Pacific Balsa Dope and I normally thin it with Acrylic thinners which usually works well but not lately. I bought some Pacific Balsa dope thinners at $14 for 250 ml.( ouch!) which was better but did not completely solve the problem. I then tried KRYLON from Spotlight and that completely cured all blushing, It is available in Matt, Satin and Gloss so great for Scale Models. I applied it straight over the blushed dope and like magic gave a clean unblemished finish.
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TimWescott
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« Reply #11 on: September 03, 2019, 09:16:52 PM »

  In regards to blushing I have had the same problem with 2 recent builds,  I use Pacific Balsa Dope and I normally thin it with Acrylic thinners which usually works well but not lately. I bought some Pacific Balsa dope thinners at $14 for 250 ml.( ouch!) which was better but did not completely solve the problem. I then tried KRYLON from Spotlight and that completely cured all blushing, It is available in Matt, Satin and Gloss so great for Scale Models. I applied it straight over the blushed dope and like magic gave a clean unblemished finish.

First, I'm tickled by the company name.  Being a lifetime resident of the US West Coast, I saw "Pacific Balsa" and thought "hey!" "howcome I never heard of these folks!".  Then I did a web search and found out "oh.  Oz".

If it's real butyrate dope (which it kinda sounds like, if it's compatible with Krylon), then if you can get some old-style automotive lacquer thinner and lacquer retarder they should work -- mostly the retarder.
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dputt7
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« Reply #12 on: September 03, 2019, 10:16:46 PM »

  Thanks Tim, I have tried lacquer thinners as well without success, I think they have made the dope more Eco friendly and as usual with this approach nowhere near as good as it once was.
     I'm sorry about my drawing but you should get the idea, the Hanger rat style bearing allowed for some thrust
 adjustment. Like I said it worked really well it just needed so much rubber to overcome the friction.  
  Just check out Rupert Moore's Short Scion from where I got the idea.
https://outerzone.co.uk/plan_details.asp?ID=9352
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korale
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« Reply #13 on: September 03, 2019, 11:07:10 PM »

I've been using tin of dope I got ages ago thinned with acetone,  this time I used pacific balsa dope in a tube,  that might be the issue.

thanks for the tip on Krylon, will drop into spotlight soon and pick  some up.

Thanks for the drawing, my concern with the Moore drive has always been the weight of the wires and the friction.  Have you seen the arrangement used by Fillion for the short Scion?  That seems like a neater method.

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dputt7
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« Reply #14 on: September 03, 2019, 11:24:36 PM »

 Yes, I built one of those Scion's  but it was electric powered, at least in the set=up I used the weight of the wire and the gears were towards the front. Are you using a motor stick?
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korale
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« Reply #15 on: September 03, 2019, 11:54:45 PM »

The motor stick is the backup plan,  I can run the rubber at an angle from the prop hook down to the nose block. If that does not work I will install a motor stick.

I will try and post a picture of what I mean later. 

The Krylon shown on the spotlight website is a spray can,  do you just starting over the doped tissue?
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dputt7
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« Reply #16 on: September 04, 2019, 02:51:24 AM »

 Yes just spray it over the doped surface, you only need to mist it on. You can also use it straight on bare tissue. As a matter of fact I am doing that right now!
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abl
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« Reply #17 on: September 05, 2019, 02:53:37 AM »

I've been meaning to ask this for a while - does anyone know if there is a UK equivalent of Krylon? Is it water, alcohol or acetone-based?

(sorry, might be slightly off-topic but it's being discussed so I thought I should seize the opportunity)
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FreeFlightModeller
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« Reply #18 on: September 05, 2019, 09:06:06 AM »

I did a quick search and someone mentioned on a forum that you can get it at The Range .... not sure if this really is the case?
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ILM Tarheel
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« Reply #19 on: September 05, 2019, 09:10:13 AM »

abl,
Krylon Clear, at least here in the USA, is an acrylic lacquer and contains acetone.

Jimmy J
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abl
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« Reply #20 on: September 05, 2019, 10:57:37 AM »

OK, so it's this stuff?

https://www.techsil.co.uk/krylon-crystal-clear-acrylic-coating-6oz?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_8Cejvi55AIVQbTtCh1OXAeUEAQYASABEgIFcfD_BwE
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dputt7
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« Reply #21 on: September 05, 2019, 06:23:50 PM »

  That's the stuff, it's also available in Satin and Matt but I find that a bit harder to find.
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korale
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« Reply #22 on: September 07, 2019, 07:52:54 PM »

Thanks Dputt,

    I tried out the Krylon and I'm sold, it helped the blushing a lot, got a weird stippling effect on some parts but that's probably to do with my technique.

 I think I'll try using Krylon instead of dope for my next build.
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dputt7
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« Reply #23 on: September 07, 2019, 08:57:51 PM »

Come on, we are all hanging out for photos  Grin
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korale
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« Reply #24 on: September 07, 2019, 11:33:24 PM »

I just placed the components together ;

trimming the tissue and hinging the tails surfaces, trying to get the struts lined up and glued tonight. 
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