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Author Topic: Junkers 87 B-2/R-2  (Read 7054 times)
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Andy Blackburn
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« Reply #100 on: December 01, 2019, 06:28:38 AM »

...
I applaud you Lurk on defending our Albert.

I hope that the jury will accept my sincere and heartfelt apologies for any perceived denigration of Mr Hatful's skill and judgement as a designer; it was not my intention to deprecate the reputation or skill of Mr Hatful.

...

It will be seen that there is a noticeable difference in the sweep-back of the L.E., the shape of wing tip and the size and shape of the flaps.
...

Oh, come now - they look pretty much identical to me. Granted, there are some minor changes but they are surely very minor and could scarecely be regarded by any reasonable person as <ahem> "significant". The change in sweepback might just attract the odd point or two if the judge is having a bad day, but seen in the round they look very similar. I'm sure that his honour The Judge will correctly consider that any minor changes to be just that, particularly if they are not visible under the covering when subjected to a casual glance?

(I'm on a loser here, aren't I?)

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TheLurker
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« Reply #101 on: December 01, 2019, 08:10:30 AM »

Slightly OT and joking aside it does sadden me when people have a go at any kit designer for the compromises necessary in a commercial product.  Mr. Hatful's Ju87 is quite a good example of this.  If you compare the wing & wing tip construction in entry 77 you'll see that his design is recognisably a Ju87 wing, uses relatively few complicated components and is well within the talents of the average 11 or 12yo to build well. Whereas my modified wing and wing-tip has some stupidly small fiddly bits and would be a complete non-starter as a kit suitable plan, even with laser cut parts, which were not an option 60 years ago.

Back OT.  Both outer wing sections, sans flaps, done.  UC legs test fitted. They seem OK. Will need to do a tiny bit more fettling to the UC legs to ensure they don't splay come final assembly, but so far, so good.

At the moment hoping for a mid January finish, but mid Feb. isn't beyond the bounds of possibility.

Cheers,
Lurk.
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TheLurker
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« Reply #102 on: December 08, 2019, 01:43:36 PM »

Unless anyone is especially desperate to see it I won't re-post the "Deviation Summary" that was lost when Ratz rescued the forum from the horrors of a <DBDGD>*.  If anyone would like a reminder for her or his own reference then please send a large stamped, self addressed envelope togther with a postal order for 5/3d to the Public Relations Dept. at  The Lurker Industries Aviation Co. Ltd.

Yesterday and today spent sorting the nose block and spinner.  Bit of painting to do before it all goes together.

I did think about using my home-brewed thrustline adjuster, but in the end I've gone for a fixed 3D, 3R as even with the slightly larger nose plug it's a bit cramped for the brasswork. If shims are required then so be it.  The airscrew is VMC's finest 6" and the spinner is also courtesy of VMC.  It's the one that comes with Andrew D's Hurricane and is a pretty convincing** substitute for no additional effort on my part. It's certainly more convincing than the original.  Hmmm, I wonder; does this count as another deviation?

Pics.  Setting up the thrustline, ensuring spinner disc and shaft-line are square, test fit of the whole boiling and a snipping from the KK plan showing the original combined spinner & prop.

Lurk
*One for all the DSM-11 (MUMPS) programmers out there. Oh. Just me then? Oh well.


**It's a model, not a facsimile.  Not only that it's also kit scale so while I want to get the overall shape right or as near right as possible with balsa and tissue I am not going to count rivets. Smiley
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TheLurker
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« Reply #103 on: December 09, 2019, 03:35:54 PM »

Thought it was about time I did something about that awful cheese-eating grin of a radiator inlet so this evening was spent testing an idea.  I think it looks a lot better.

Pics.
Testing blank for size, opening the grille out, sorting the rad. mesh and check piece resting in place.

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Squirrelnet
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« Reply #104 on: December 09, 2019, 04:21:03 PM »

Nice job Lurk . No cheese will be harmed after the making that grill.
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Andy Blackburn
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« Reply #105 on: December 09, 2019, 05:09:14 PM »

That does look a lot better. Nicely done.
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Jack Plane
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« Reply #106 on: December 10, 2019, 03:01:35 AM »

You're racking up points faster than one can say "Achtung Spitfire!"
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Andy Blackburn
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« Reply #107 on: December 10, 2019, 05:17:15 AM »

To be honest, I had originally thought that Lurk might make a few changes and might scrape through with 16-20 penalty points but I had obviously failed to take into account the vast resources provided by Mr Barnes-Norway and his team; I suspect that we're going to end up with 60+ penalty points which is extremely impressive. And in spite of Lurk's protestations, I think that (provided that it's straight and balanced properly) the attainment of the qualifying flight time will be a foregone conclusion.

I am therefore throwing in the towel (for those of you who are late to the party, see post #1)... well done, Lurk!  Smiley
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TheLurker
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« Reply #108 on: December 12, 2019, 12:34:15 PM »

Now.  Where were we?

Ah.  Yes.  The MG-15.  How to do the magazines.  I've worked out a moderately good solution.  As usual the execution is not all I hoped it would be, but not so bad that I'm ashamed to show the result.
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« Last Edit: December 12, 2019, 01:05:12 PM by TheLurker » Logged
flydean1
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« Reply #109 on: December 12, 2019, 10:10:17 PM »

No ring sight? Grin
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TheLurker
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« Reply #110 on: December 13, 2019, 03:16:15 PM »

Quote from: flydean1
No ring sight? Grin
Of course there's a ring sight.  It's just not fitted yet.  Would you expect anything less of Mr. Barnes-Norway and his staff? Smiley

This is far and away the easiest bit to make.  Fine wire wrapped twice around a pin to form the loop then twisted to form the mounting post.

I doubt whether I'll bother fitting this come final assembly as it won't survive the trimming flights never mind the rough and tumble of a flying session.

You'll probably need to hit the, "Make It Bigger" button in the attachment viewer to see it.
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Squirrelnet
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« Reply #111 on: December 13, 2019, 03:21:14 PM »

That's pretty impressive   Cheesy
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strat-o
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« Reply #112 on: December 13, 2019, 03:51:25 PM »

Let's get a closer zoom so we can see the spider silk crosshairs.
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Crabby
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« Reply #113 on: December 13, 2019, 04:56:30 PM »

Lurk next time you are near a hardware store get a look at the fluted dowels they make for furniture connections they come in 3 sizes, just right, too big and way too big. You might like to use them on your machine gun. You will see what I mean once you get a look! That limburger-eating grin is really diabolical. Goering is giggling hysterically like a bowl of greasy gristle somewhere!
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« Reply #114 on: December 16, 2019, 01:47:10 PM »

Quote from: Crabby
Lurk next time you are near a hardware store get a look at the fluted dowels...
Idea stolen noted for future use.  Ta.

Things are marching tres lentement ici.  The Humbrol matt yellow enamel (No. 24 for aficianados) is taking 48 hours per "waffer thin" coat to dry on the noseblock and spinner and I'm not minded to do anything else until I've got the nose block and prop. assembly completed.  Unfortunately I haven't got that colour in an acrylic version.
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Andy Blackburn
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« Reply #115 on: December 17, 2019, 03:50:44 AM »

> The Humbrol matt yellow enamel (No. 24 for aficianados) is taking 48 hours per "waffer thin" coat to dry

That's a bit odd because it's normally bone dry in a couple of hours; I've only ever had that when a member of staff hasn't stirred/shaken it properly, although I could see it happening if the tin of paint was from a bad batch (happens, sometimes, with Humbrol). Perhaps the purchasing dept could persuade your supplier to donate a repalcement tin?
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TheLurker
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« Reply #116 on: December 17, 2019, 04:54:07 PM »

Quote from: abl
> The Humbrol matt yellow enamel (No. 24 for aficianados) is taking 48 hours per "waffer thin" coat to dry
... I've only ever had that when a member of staff hasn't stirred/shaken it properly...
Thoroughly stirred to make sure the pigment is well dispersed, yellow being such a very good colour* for covering dark surfaces so will go with your alternative hypothesis of a dud batch.  Hoping to get to a shop sometime in the next few days to pick up some acrylic matt yellow as I generally find acrylic paint far easier to work with.

Nose block close to complete.  The epoxy fillets between the prop and spinner are now hardening off and then slap a bit of paint on to finish off.

Just for fun here's a very short film, courtesy of those awfully helpful fellows at Merton Park Studios, of the spinner alignment testing prior to final fixing.  Alignment Check


*May contain traces of irony or even outright lie.
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DavidJP
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« Reply #117 on: December 18, 2019, 08:45:16 AM »

I have not used Humbrol for a very long time but I do recall intermittent occurrences of problems with drying which I had rather thought has been solved.  I think otherwise the general standard of craftsmanship (which expression is deemed to cover any sexual orientation or gender preference. ) shows continual improvement.  I think though Lurk the standard of your finishes is consistent with paint being  “applied” rather than “slapped on”.
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TheLurker
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« Reply #118 on: December 20, 2019, 03:52:17 PM »

A very stiff letter of complaint has been sent by Mr. Grantown, Foreman of the Paint Shop, on behalf of Lurker Industries with the wholehearted backing of The Board to The Humber Oil Co. regarding the quality of its paint and the very poor drying time thereof.

Or...
Dud batch.  Tried some off-white and it was touch dry within an hour or three and rock solid the next morning.  Unfortunately my nearest (only) bricks and mortar stocks only Revell (and they are very poor about restocking) so I've had to go with a less than ideal replacement which is a bit brighter than it should be, but it was that or wait months to get the noseblock finished.  The block & spinner look less garish in natural light.

Various bits and pieces in progress.  Part way through assembling what I hope will be a totally unnecessary jig for wing fitting and playing around with ways of making the main ordnance.  The bomb sort of works, but I'm not convinced it's good enough to fit

Pics. Noseblock and assembly steps for the bomb.  The fins are 100gsm card, the casing 80gsm paper and the nose a scrap of balsa.  You'll note that it took several attempts to make it work. Smiley
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flydean1
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« Reply #119 on: December 20, 2019, 08:55:50 PM »

Where are the nose and tail fuses and safety wires? Grin, and the attachment lugs for the "trapeze"?
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TheLurker
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« Reply #120 on: December 21, 2019, 02:35:46 AM »

Quote from: flydean1
Where are the nose and tail fuses and safety wires? Grin, and the attachment lugs for the "trapeze"?
You can't see the fuses and lugs? I am surprised, they're as plain as the nose on your face.  In the words of the advert., "Should have gone to Specsavers."*  Smiley

As for the trapeze; I'm still pondering the best way to represent that.  A wire representation is likely to need jewellery grade materials and a require a degree of wire bending skill I don't have and, as I said above, I'm not convinced the main ordnance is good enough to fit.  If I can work out a good way of making the trapeze it might fly unarmed.


*For non-UK readers.  A chain of high street opticians that broadcasts allegedly funny adverts.
« Last Edit: December 21, 2019, 02:50:39 AM by TheLurker » Logged
Andy Blackburn
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« Reply #121 on: December 21, 2019, 04:09:39 AM »

> As for the trapeze; I'm still pondering the best way to represent that.

Maybe a bit of plastic rod, bent in a candle flame?...

> I'm not convinced the main ordnance is good enough to fit.

Oh, I'm sure it'll be fine - and in any case, it's usually only visible when the model is in flight.

Of course, if I hadn't already thrown in the towel (see earlier posts), then in my best Dick Dastardly manner I'd be suggesting that you fill the bomb casing with sand or similar to make it more "realistic"... But I have, so I won't.
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TheLurker
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« Reply #122 on: December 21, 2019, 05:02:30 AM »

>> As for the trapeze; I'm still pondering the best way to represent that.
abl> Maybe a bit of plastic rod, bent in a candle flame?...
What a very good idea.  See below.

abl>Of course, if I hadn't already thrown in the towel (see earlier posts), then in my best Dick Dastardly manner...
Not only that, but suggesting solutions that may improve the verisimiltude of the model.  Are you quite well old fellow?

abl>  ...suggesting that you fill the bomb casing with sand ...
Well that is one way of limiting the model's endurance.  Smiley

Thanks to abl's suggestion above I now have four possible solutions.

In order of,  "from least to most likely to look like the prototype" they are,

- Thin card cut to pattern.
- Thin (5 thou) plastic card likewise cut to pattern.
- Slivers of bamboo cocktail stick. The cocking arm on the MG-15 suggests this might be possible.
- Heat stretched sprue. Luckily* I have a reserve kept for this sort thing.

For preference I'd like to make either the thin card solution or the bamboo slivers work as the other materials aren't the sort of things anyone but a dedicated modeller is likely to have to hand.

Lurk.

*MrsLurker's views on my hoard of bits kept because, "it'll come in useful one day" and mine are not entirely congruent.
« Last Edit: December 21, 2019, 05:18:57 AM by TheLurker » Logged
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« Reply #123 on: December 21, 2019, 10:35:45 AM »

Empty 500 mg vitamin capsules might make good bombs.
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« Reply #124 on: December 21, 2019, 03:44:07 PM »

Quote from: Crabby
Empty 500 mg vitamin capsules might make good bombs.
They'd certainly make good casings for wing mounted bombs and that's another excellent idea I'm going to nab, but not for this build as the intended scheme for this build is an R2 which carried drop-tanks on the wings. I may duck the drop tanks as they've got compound curves which aren't amenable to the rolled paper tube approach used for the main ordnance.

Right. Who was complaining about the lack of trapeze and mounting lugs on the bomb casing?  Oh yes, I remember... Smiley

Here we go.  One trapeze, bomb fitted with, untrimmed, mounting spigots and all resting in position.

Split bamboo cocktail sticks work.  I don't think you'd get away with pine/softwood cocktail sticks because of the variable grain.

Take a couple of cocktail sticks, split and take the thicker "half" from each.  Bit of sanding to ensure the flat faces are flat.  Pin to plan* and then cut and fit cross-member and braces.  Use a full diameter cocktail stick for the cross-member.

For the casing mounting points a sliver of bamboo, shaved down to pin diameter.  Poke hole in casing with pin and put the bamboo sliver in place.  

Pics.  Trapeze in place and a pic from the Airfix 1/24th B2 kit - kindly lent to me by a work colleague - showing trapeze mounting detail for comparison.  Come final assembly poke a couple of holes in the tissue and glue the trapeze position.

*Mr. Barnes-Norway insists on drawings and plans for all sub-assemblies.  Quite strict that way our Mr. B-N. Smiley
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