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Author Topic: Lee’s Hobbies Bristol Scout for Kit Scale  (Read 1302 times)
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Russ Lister
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« Reply #25 on: September 29, 2019, 06:18:42 AM »

.... I was using the Gypsy Rose Lee, lines on the palms of you hands method.

(Now spoilt by Jon's "scale" method ... whatever that is)  Tongue
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Pete Fardell
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« Reply #26 on: September 29, 2019, 08:08:07 AM »

Having seen that you'd already made a second pair, I didn't have the heart to tell you that mine are a scale 28mm!  Wink
Close enough, though mine are more like 29mm. Size derived by taking a long measurement from fuselage on the Ian Stair 1/48 drawing in the Windsock file. Kit fuselage is 2.19 times longer than the drawing, so 2.19 was my scale-up factor.
(Anyway, oversized wheels don’t bug me nearly so much!)

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Pete Fardell
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« Reply #27 on: October 05, 2019, 05:43:22 PM »

I seem determined to build this twice. Not only two sets of wheels, but now two goes at covering the wings. I took Jack Plane’s advice the first time and preshrunk (steamed) the tissue first on a stiff card frame, but I seem to lack the knack because I ended up with wings with baggy tissue which looked even more awful when doped. So it all came off again, which thanks to being applied with the dope and thinners method (also suggested by Jon) was not too big an ordeal. I had to print off some more tan tissue, but this time did not preshrink it and only steamed the wings over the kettle once they were re-covered. I let them dry, weighted on a board with washout jigs.  Much happier this time. Just a couple of centre section wrinkles which I can probably tease out. Fuselage also covered, so just the tail to do. I may not even preshrink for that as the tail parts do seem stiff enough to cope with steam shrinking.
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DHnut
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« Reply #28 on: October 06, 2019, 05:43:14 AM »

I can relate to this Pete. I unwisely tried to finish off the VMC Bird Dog last night and made a complete hash of the US ARMY markings on the wing and will need a recover to sort it out.
Ricky
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Pete Fardell
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« Reply #29 on: October 08, 2019, 04:12:35 PM »

Decals today. I drew them in MSPaint and then sprayed some plain Esaki with white acrylic on the reverse and printed them off on a carrier sheet. (This was my second attempt, as if you accidentally print them off paint side up they don’t look so good!) For the rudder numbers I sprayed the tissue ‘desert tan’ on the back to stop one side’s numbers showing through and spoiling the other’s. Last pic is the Scout I'm trying to represent.
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Pete Fardell
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« Reply #30 on: October 16, 2019, 08:39:05 AM »

A little experiment on an old wing. Non shrinking dope on the left, banana oil on the right. As I suspected, the banana oil retains more of the tissue’s opaqueness. It doesn’t smudge the ink on my printed markings either, so on we go.

(My favoured Ezedope is not an option because, although it’s even better for keeping tissue opaqueness, the water in it would smudge the markings, and it’s also very inclined to make the tissue baggy up on application and therefore stick to the opposite surface on small models like this.)
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john bowerman
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« Reply #31 on: October 16, 2019, 12:53:00 PM »

Pete
If you only lightly shrink the tissue on a frame enough just to get the creases out.
Then attach the tissue as tight and smooth as you can you can then shrink it again when it is on the model.
Just do not overdo the initial shrinking.
Hopes this helps in the future
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« Reply #32 on: October 16, 2019, 02:17:08 PM »

As someone more used to drawing in CAD or a vector drawing program such as Adobe Illustrator, I admire that you have been able to draw up what you want in a basic program like MS Paint!
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Pete Fardell
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« Reply #33 on: October 16, 2019, 03:11:13 PM »

Thanks John. I may have another go at the preshrinking lark then, although I didn’t use anything more than steam on it. Anyway, I’m reasonably happy with this now. Markings are now on, but banana oil not yet applied. Russ, I know that MSPaint is not what proper graphic artists use and I really should properly learn to use the arty Adobe programs I’ve got. I like the simplicity of Paint though and through long familiarity have developed my own system of cheats and ruses to get what I want from it. The main thing is to do everything really big to avoid the dreaded zigzaggy curves and diagonals when it’s printed smaller.
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Pete Fardell
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« Reply #34 on: October 20, 2019, 12:37:28 PM »

Banana oil now applied to all surfaces. I’ve also Sharpied on the ailerons and given the cowling a finish of grey acrylic followed by Rub ‘n’ Buff. This is the pewter Rubb ‘n’ Buff rather than the usual silver. I like its duller finish. Am now about ready to put this together I think.
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Squirrelnet
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« Reply #35 on: October 20, 2019, 01:17:30 PM »

Nice job Pete. Rub 'n' buff seems to work very well, it gives a nice finish
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« Reply #36 on: October 20, 2019, 02:00:31 PM »

Looking good, Pete  Smiley

Coincidentally, I found my stash of rub'n'buff yesterday... not seen it for years.
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Graham Banham
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« Reply #37 on: October 20, 2019, 07:04:19 PM »

Pete,

Looks good.

Peterborough MFC have one of their 3 hour sessions (10 til 1) at Bushfield Leisure Centre next Saturday 26th. Richard and i are going to do some pre IIFI trimming: too far for you?
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Pete Fardell
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« Reply #38 on: October 20, 2019, 07:18:53 PM »

Not too far, and I’ve got it on my calendar. Depends if I’m ready and on the weather (as potentially there’s the Credgington comp at Barkston on the same day).
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