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Author Topic: Dyna-Moe  (Read 473 times)
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edhardin
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« on: October 02, 2019, 07:47:49 AM »

The Dyna-Moe will be the One Design Rubber entry at the 2020 NATS. Mine is from Jim O'Reilly plans and Bob Holman
short kit. The models in the background are the pre-war Jabberwock and Gollywock from Echo 7 Products plans drawn
by Bob Beinenstein. The pre-war Jabberwock does not have the sheeted wing and "pointy" wing and stab tips like the
post-war version.
Ed Hardin
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skyrocket
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« Reply #1 on: October 08, 2019, 01:05:09 PM »

I got my Dyna-Moe drawing off the Outerzone site. I pieced together 11" x 17" sheets, cut it down the middle so I could build separate pieces at the same time. I built the stab and fin first and today I'll do the sides. It's the 1947 version with sheeted LE. Wally could have built it from 3/32" squares and it would have been much lighter because it is a little over-designed to my way of thinking but Wally was such a fine builder and flyer I can't anything against him. I agree with him as it being the best looking of the three.
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« Reply #2 on: October 08, 2019, 07:54:45 PM »

Ed

Best news I've had all day.  As a kid in the mid-1950s, I went through several Dynamo kits, but always used the wood to make a Gollywok fuselage. There were three reasons: The Dynamo wing was just bit bigger than the Gollywok; the Gollywok fuse was lighter and less trouble to build, and the Dynamos were slow movers at my Dad's hobby shop. I think he had to buy some of each from the distributer. (There was one customer that would buy two kits and make a stretched wing, fuse, and stab open rubber model---it was either a five or six panel wing with very long fuselage. He covered in white tissue and called the design "the Goast".)

I've had a set of plans for at least two decades, so now I have an excuse to build one.

Louis
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« Reply #3 on: October 09, 2019, 11:40:32 AM »

How do you DT the model?

It looks like the only options are pop-up or pop-off wing. I guess you could pop up stab by adding slot for forward part of rudder to go into fuselage.

Any suggestions? 

Louis
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Starduster
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« Reply #4 on: October 09, 2019, 12:40:20 PM »

How do you DT the model?

It looks like the only options are pop-up or pop-off wing. I guess you could pop up stab by adding slot for forward part of rudder to go into fuselage.

Any suggestions? 

Louis

On mine I added a slot forward of the stab. It works well
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strat-o
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« Reply #5 on: October 09, 2019, 01:36:31 PM »

Same here (a slot). That was how I solved it on my Gollywock.  I saw some others solving it by clipping a triangular slice out of the rudder but I think that ruins the aesthetics.
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edhardin
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« Reply #6 on: October 09, 2019, 01:53:03 PM »

Same here. a slot in front of the rudder. The front of the rudder fits into the slot and the slot length controls the DT angle.
I put a small piece of polyspan hardened with CA around the rudder where it contacts the front of the slot.
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skyrocket
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« Reply #7 on: October 09, 2019, 02:06:53 PM »

Yep...slot in front of the stab seems the easiest...fuselage built and working on the retract wheel, stab mount and fin...I put a 1 3/8" wide strip of 1/32" sheet in the middle of the stab and 2 ribs 1/8" apart to slid the fin in so the tissue remains tight after covering...I know that adds weight  but I don't have to worry about the connection...
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NormF
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« Reply #8 on: October 09, 2019, 04:05:57 PM »

The front of the rudder overhangs much more than a Golly. 45 dog pop up will have to go through the bottom of the fuse? I think pop the wing.

My first successful rubber model was a Dyna Moe. But it was before blow tubes, one day the fuselage disappeared! Went back to flying gas only!
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edhardin
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« Reply #9 on: October 09, 2019, 07:21:35 PM »

Yeah, the rudder will go through the bottom of the fuselage, O'Reilly plans show a slot in the bottom for it.
Also his plan shows the bay in front of the rudder open, but I sheet it with 1/16 for the afore mentioned slot.
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Re: Dyna-Moe
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skyrocket
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« Reply #10 on: October 11, 2019, 09:51:07 AM »

The stab, fin and fuselage are ready to cover...working on the nose block right now and plug...also just assembling the wing dihedral joints and ready to stick to the center section...put in a order for balsa blocks for the prop from Specialized Balsa Wood, LLC so I'll be carving that puppy next week...everything feels pretty light and surprisingly (for me) straight...
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« Reply #11 on: October 11, 2019, 11:11:52 AM »

Thanks for all the suggestions regarding DT.

Now I have a rules question: Since the Dyna-Moe was designed before WWII, it doesn't fit in Nostalgia rules of NFFS. I looked at the SAM rules and wire hubs are specifically banned (as are any sort of thermal detection devices!).

Am I correct in guessing that for the Nats one-design event wire hubs are allowed? The SAM rules also said that the prop had to follow the block layout on the original plans. I plan to do that but laminate the blades rather than carve them. Any rule problems with that.

By the way, I have no intention of using a wire hub (hate bending wire & soldering). Instead I'll machine an aluminum hub the same size as hub on Dyna-Moe plans. As a kid we would use two pieces of 1/16 ply and a basswood filler block to make the hub. Now that I finally have a lathe...

Louis

PS:  Does or did anyone ever build a Gollywok/Jaberwok/Dyna-Moe wing the way it shows on the plan? I can't imagine glueing up the spar first and then building the panels one at a time around the spar. As I recall, we used two ribs at each dihedral break and built each panel separately (i.e. the normal way).
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skyrocket
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« Reply #12 on: October 13, 2019, 11:17:12 AM »

Things are going along nicely...waiting for the wood for the prop...so far it's 44 grams uncovered...pic...
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Re: Dyna-Moe
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