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Author Topic: Bad time with esaki over mylar  (Read 869 times)
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pedwards2932
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« Reply #25 on: November 27, 2019, 06:56:22 PM »

Sorry I misread, you were looking at mils.  The thickest they have on eBay is 12 microns which is about 1/2 mil.
Material: Dupont Mylar® Type C films
Length: 20 meters
Width: 620 mm
Thickness: 12 micron
Cost 29.95
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cvasecuk
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« Reply #26 on: November 28, 2019, 05:48:56 AM »

Mike Woodhouse (Free Flight Supplies) doers Mylar from 1to 15 Micron (1/20 to 3/4 mil) and gives examples of their different uses here....
freeflightsupplies.co.uk/index.php/products/lightweight-covering-materials
Ron
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Crabby
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« Reply #27 on: December 08, 2019, 11:49:40 PM »

I found a source for Sig dope and thinner here in Palm Bay, an old fashioned hobby shop with wooden floors and stuff laying all over the place. Unfortunately, the prices are completely futuristic. Whatever. After he had his way with my finances I finally got out with a quart of Sig and a few 4 oz bottlers of thinner. When I got home I shoved all my testing into the trash, and went to work mixing dope and thinner. What finally worked was a mix of 1:6 dope to thinner brushed on thru a damp piece of esaki. What I was getting wrong was the type of thinner, and the mix. It's got to be thin enough for the fluid to pass through the tissue, and it can't dry too fast, or it won't stick. Whatever, the case is closed and I am gonna cover the Ellipsis with tissue over mylar. As they say, say in the country and western honky-tonks, "Easy just gets harder everyday"   La di da tweedle di. Roll Eyes
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RalphS
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« Reply #28 on: December 09, 2019, 05:05:18 AM »

An essential piece of advice given to me when I was in the early stages of an apprenticeship was -

               "never give up while there is material in the store"

                It does work, I assure you.

                      Ralph
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« Reply #29 on: December 09, 2019, 08:00:32 AM »

Ralph, for better or worse, It has been made abundantly clear to me that I am a life-long apprentice, with a revolving hat rack, the dunce cap always within reach ready and well broken in! A slow-absorbing sponge. But I like it and the lifestyle fits me to a "T" Give up? I'm having too much fun for that! I ordered some Randolph's non tautening nitrate dope and thinner from aircraft spruce the other day. Thanks to flydean for re-reading the Mike Woodhouse article to me, (lost in the crash this weekend, the post, that is) I was trying to make some gunwash thinners from the big box stores work, plus going on way too thick. All is well now.

Flydean if you could be so kind as to re-state the post you sent here about the mix and the thinner, for others who may be having the same issues as I was.... I had read the Woodhouse article several times myself but never saw the mix described as thin, and I mean thin! and also the part about the tissue being not wringing wet. It made the difference.
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flydean1
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« Reply #30 on: December 09, 2019, 08:53:30 PM »

Evidently it got lost in the Great Site Crash of Pearl Harbor Day.

Mixture:  25% dope to 75% thinner.  Your 6:1 works out to 16.66% dope to the remainder thinner.  As you discovered, it has to be THIN!!!  The exact ratio needs to be tuned.  I think you will discover the Randolph dope is a bit thicker than Sig.

The tissue needs to be damp, not wringing wet.  This allows you to gently lift the edges to smooth out the wrinkles before doping it down.  Esaki excels in the wet strength department, less so domestic.

Don't pre-dope.  The thin mixture will soak through the tissue and stick the whole thing together.  It will be well and truly blushed.  No matter, your next THIN coat will take care of it.

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ffkiwi
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« Reply #31 on: December 09, 2019, 10:55:34 PM »

Evidently it got lost in the Great Site Crash of Pearl Harbor Day.

Mixture:  25% dope to 75% thinner.  Your 6:1 works out to 16.66% dope to the remainder thinner.  As you discovered, it has to be THIN!!!  The exact ratio needs to be tuned.  I think you will discover the Randolph dope is a bit thicker than Sig.

The tissue needs to be damp, not wringing wet.  This allows you to gently lift the edges to smooth out the wrinkles before doping it down.  Esaki excels in the wet strength department, less so domestic.

Don't pre-dope.  The thin mixture will soak through the tissue and stick the whole thing together.  It will be well and truly blushed.  No matter, your next THIN coat will take care of it.



That's about what I use-give or take...4:1 is too thin, 3:1 generally too thick-get the dope consistency right and most of your issues will disappear.....so flydeans 25% is bang on in between the two. As he notes YMMV depending on how thick your original undiluted dope is..

 ChrisM
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« Reply #32 on: December 10, 2019, 04:14:52 AM »

why  do you always use nitrate dope ?

try this:
-cover with mylar as usual
-spray on water with a "brumisateur d'eau minéral d'Evian" (the one of your wife) that is the finest water drop you may find.
-lay on tissue at best with 4 hands, remove all air bubbles with a smooth brush

immédiately apply undiluted  water based varnish (I use synthilor found in any DIY shop).

let dry and finish edges as usual.
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