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Author Topic: Peck Polymers Piper J3 Cub Build  (Read 977 times)
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Squirrelnet
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« Reply #25 on: February 01, 2020, 01:35:40 PM »

A bit more on the Cub today

First step was to bend up the undercarriage to the form on the plan and fix it to the part former F8. I used a small amount of quick epoxy, which is probably overkill but having mostly built larger outdoor free flight models it seemed a natural choice.

The front end has been pulled in to fit the front former and sheet side cheeks. I have to to say I deviated slightly from the kit here. The top half former that forms the front of the fuselage is incredibly weak , I stupidly broke mine in half just picking it up off the workbench !!! I cut another from some 1/64" ply and doubled that up with original to make a hopefully more robust attachment for the nose block

The front laser cut nose block seemed to just fit meaning that sanding to shape without breaking through the longerons would be tricky so I made another front nose a bit larger to give me a bit more margin when I sand it to shape

I've added the tail wheel and tail wheel leg as well so its looking more aircraft like now

The final pic makes clear Lurkers earlier comments about the supplied half wheels.. they look pretty cr*p

So I'll make some from laminated balsa

Weight has gone up accordingly and now stands at 5.5g for the final pic. Flying weight is heading towards 7-9g Huh
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TheLurker
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« Reply #26 on: February 01, 2020, 05:16:38 PM »

Quote from: Squirrelnet
So I'll make some from laminated balsa
Good.  It's a shame that Wind-it-Up supply such awful wheels with kits that are otherwise really good.

Quote from: Squirrelnet
Weight has gone up accordingly and now stands at 5.5g for the final pic. Flying weight is heading towards 7-9g Huh
That seems pretty good to me, but I think anything under 20g is remarkable. Smiley
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Squirrelnet
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« Reply #27 on: February 08, 2020, 01:33:17 PM »

Thanks Lurk

 I didn't get very much done today on the Piper but I did add the top decking to the nose. I don't like the paper used in these kits so I sanded down some 1/32" balsa to about 1/64" and covered it with that .

 I also made up some wheels.

I cut some rough discs from some light 3/32" sheet with compass cutter and glued them together with Alliphatic with the grain at 90 degrees. When dry I drilled a hole through them at the centre to take a short length of 1/8" dowel and glued it in. This forms a mandrel to mount in my Dremel so can I turn them using some oxide paper mounted on a strip of wood.

Once I got a decent fat ballon wheel shape I cut the dowel off where it meets the wheel and carefully drilled a hole through the centre of the dowel.

It takes a bit of effort but much nicer than the half wheel of the kit, thanks again Lurk

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ZK-AUD
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« Reply #28 on: February 08, 2020, 02:40:10 PM »

Chris that's looking really good.  Lovely crisp work. 

You've mentioned weight a couple of times so If you're concerned there are a few good tricks at this point.

Take your sanding block and gently sand all 4 planes of the fuselage  - sides, top and bottom until you take it back closer to 1/20 square.  It's a peanut when all said and done so you're not constrained by the KS police.

Ditto your flying surfaces -I'd give the wings a good old rub on the flat under surface.

For sanding the tailplane and fin I make a simple sanding jig - a piece of hard 1/32 sheet with an exact cutout for the part.  Tack glue this to your bench and this holds your part nicely while you deal to it with your sanding block.  I'd take these down to 1/20 as well

Another thing to do would be to swap out the U/C  for some lighter wire - around 27swg is the maximum you need.  Guitar string wire is even better.  After the nuclear apocalypse the only things likely to survive are cockroaches and your current undercarriage  Grin

When you glaze it avoid the material supplied and find some really thin stuff such as what they wrap boxes  of tea in,  or even better the clear window in a Krispy Kreme do-nut box - ideal.

Hope this is of use

Cheers, Mike
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Squirrelnet
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« Reply #29 on: February 08, 2020, 03:26:09 PM »

Thanks Mike, that's very much appreciated

I had taken a sanding block to the rear of fuselage but after your comments I will keep going down to 1/20" Cheesy

Point taken about the UC ...it came in the box is not much of an excuse. I'm sure finding some Kispy Creme Donuts won't be too much of a chore  Grin Grin Grin Grin

Chris
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Jack Plane
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« Reply #30 on: February 08, 2020, 03:49:49 PM »

Great advice Mike!

Chris, the local equivalent is the cellophane from Tunnocks Teacakes - as recommended by that other master, sadly missed in this parish, Andrew Darby.

Jon
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Russ Lister
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« Reply #31 on: February 08, 2020, 04:29:43 PM »

It's a peanut when all said and done so you're not constrained by the KS police.

I said this to myself earlier when sanding my tailplane gussets to a radius. One of my favourite things to do, but I've not done it with my kit scale builds.
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Andy Blackburn
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« Reply #32 on: February 08, 2020, 06:16:11 PM »

Looks much better with some nice wheels!

A.
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Squirrelnet
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« Reply #33 on: February 09, 2020, 01:01:57 PM »

 Thanks all.

Jon - are you denying me a Krispy Creme donut Sad  We get Tunnocks tea cakes all the time ....  Wink

Painted up, the wheels look much better. There's still some sanding to do the fuselage and wings but the airframe is just about there. I've sanded the tail and fin down to around 0.055 so nearly a 1/20th and done the same to the rear of the fuselage.

  I think I'll stick with my Armageddon proof undercarriage, largely because I don't have anything thinner than 22swg to hand and I don't fancy trying cut it out of the fuselage without damaging the bottom longeron. I will order in some guitar strings for future use though.

With that in mind weight has crept up to 5.7g.

For the dummy engine I've used the same method as on the cylinders of my Sopwith Pup. I painted the basic balsa shape of the cylinders and cylinder head black and have used metallic thread to represent the cylinder head fins. Most of it is covered by a cylinder head cover so I only need one corner to look even

Fin and tail are now covered with the supplied yellow tissue. It's not Esaki as there is no shiny side so I assume it's Peck tissue. I gave the parts a very light water shrink and they are currently drying from a coat of 30/70 Non Shrinking Dope



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Pete Fardell
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« Reply #34 on: February 09, 2020, 01:22:44 PM »

Great stuff, Chris. The sanding has made the airframe look altogether classier somehow. Very Cubbish too.
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Russ Lister
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« Reply #35 on: February 09, 2020, 01:49:29 PM »

That's going together quickly .... and very well too!
The pin clamps put the size of the cylinders into perspective .... crisp work Chris  Smiley
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TheLurker
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« Reply #36 on: February 09, 2020, 02:49:38 PM »

Quote from: abl
Looks much better with some nice wheels!
+1

Looks very nice altogether ackcherlee.
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Rhys
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« Reply #37 on: February 13, 2020, 08:54:13 PM »

Very nice job on the Cub! This is the clipped wing version? Can't wait to see the finished product.

Rhys
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