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Author Topic: flying handles  (Read 525 times)
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whiskers
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« on: January 31, 2020, 06:33:44 PM »

I'm just about to re-start control line flying after a break of some 35 or so years. Can't wait. I was wondering what handles out there are good.

Here in UK there seems to be a limited choice now. Micro-mould, Sulivan (2 types) and P.A.W. which looks like a real beast!

I remember my old handle used to be adjustable, alloy and painted dark red. All my flying pals had one - seemed to work for us with our peacemakers and similar .15-.35 sized stunters. This is the size of plane I plan to be using mostly. I can't recall much more than that about it.

Not sure if I should buy or make a DIY one...
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Jez Wilkins
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« Reply #1 on: February 03, 2020, 10:11:39 AM »

Hi whiskers.

I have used the Micro Mold ones for years, with no problems.  Good for 'general purpose' use - line spacing too wide for team race.  I've no experience of the Sullivan handles - so cannot comment on these.  I've no experience of PAW's stunt/general purpose handle either (although I do have an [as yet unused] team race version of their handle).  The team race version is very well engineered and I've no reason to doubt that their stunt/general purpose handle will be any less so.

The only tricky bit in making your own handle is to devise a system where you can (i) easily adjust line length (making up two identical length lines is not the easiest of tasks - plus your most comfortable hand position may not result in 'neutral elevator' on the model) but (ii) also be sure that the 'line length adjustment mechanism' can be 'locked' (or else secured in some other way) so that the 'line length' does not alter, during your flight (one line suddenly becoming two inches longer and the other two inches shorter is not a good thing, whether it is the 'up' or 'down' line that gets 'shorter'/'longer').  Smiley

The only other suggestion that I would make to you is to fit a 'safety lanyard' to your handle (whether a 'bought', or 'home-made' handle) and make sure that you secure the free end of the lanyard to your wrist, before each and every flight. This way, if you get dizzy/fall over, or otherwise lose your grip on the handle, the model will still be 'tethered' to you and you will avoid a 'fly-away'.

I hope that you will enjoy your 'free of £9 CAA registration fee' flying experience. Smiley

Cheers,

Jez Wilkins    
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whiskers
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« Reply #2 on: February 03, 2020, 11:53:58 AM »

Thanks Jez. I'll go for a Micro Mold handle for now and see how I get on. I'll put my £9.00 towards some building supplies!!!
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Jez Wilkins
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« Reply #3 on: February 03, 2020, 01:12:02 PM »

Thanks Jez. I'll go for a Micro Mold handle for now and see how I get on. I'll put my £9.00 towards some building supplies!!!

No problem whiskers.Smiley  You won't go far wrong with the Micro Mold handle, at least for starters, in my experience.Smiley

The Micro Mold handles are cheap enough for you to use some of your £9 'saving' on buying (depending upon how many different C/L models you intend to fly in a session) a second handle.  That way, you can set up two complete 'handle, line and model sets' at the beginning of the session and then alternate between the two at will (subject to a quick 'pre-flight' check, before each flight, to make sure nothing has 'slipped', or broken) - rather than having to swap the handle between models and maybe having to make further adjustments to 'line length'.  Just a thought - and you will still be £2* 'in pocket'.Smiley

Cheers,

Jez Wilkins

*Edit. Could be more than £2 - I based this figure on £7, on one website - but have since seen them for £5.75, on another - although I doubt that either of these two prices includes delivery.            
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whiskers
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« Reply #4 on: February 03, 2020, 04:59:50 PM »

Handle on order. Cheap as chips...C/L flying just keeps better!!
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Iskandar Taib
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« Reply #5 on: September 18, 2021, 01:00:55 PM »

Over the years I've come to realize that for most sport flying handles needn't be elaborate or adjustable. Nor do they need hefty wire cables coming out of them. I always set up my models so that wihen the two leadouts ends are clipped together, the controls are level. The lines are cut to the exact same length. So my home-made handles are like the ones they sell for Combat - they've got a length of 1/32" piano wire running through the handle, with short loops coming out at the top and the bottom. Easy to make out of three layers of 1/8" plywood, epoxied together. The wire is buried in epoxy in the middle plywood layer. Spray paint them bright orange so they're visible in the grass. Line clips go into the loops. Pretty much bulletproof, and no need to spend time adjusting the handle when you want to fly.

Iskandar
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TimWescott
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« Reply #6 on: September 18, 2021, 02:40:54 PM »

Whacha flying?  If you're flying stunt, or very stunt-ish sport, I'll happily give you a brain dump on the World's Best Handle Setup -- and some opinions I've gleaned from other good fliers on what they think is best (even though they're wrong, because they're disagreeing with me!)

I tend toward a non-adjustable hard-point handle with multiple clip holes so that I can adjust the line spacing easily.  Pair that with a selection of different-sized clips to adjust for zero, and you get nice positive control.  Now make the handle as light as you can (the one pictured is 18gm) for more responsiveness.  You can't get much better, unless you can make the handle even lighter.
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