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Author Topic: Capacitor powered electric vs. rubber.  (Read 2729 times)
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sx976
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« Reply #75 on: May 05, 2021, 02:12:06 AM »

Hi George

My problem with the switch is a different one. They are not very strong mechanically and I have torn off the slide button a few times and had to replace the switch. The switch is tiny, only 6mm long.

On one of my bigger models I tried an 'end stop' lever switch (also shown). Hold down while charging, release to fly. It worked brilliantly, but as I tend to build small models for indoor flying, it's too big for them.

The jack plug solution on the Chinese Module works reliably as you are using a straight pull to remove the jack plug. I have just finished an indoor profile Junkers Ju 288 and am using a Chinese Module with remote capacitor and twin 615 motors. Not flown yet due to Covid restrictions in our sports hall, but I'm happy with the technical solution.

Once I did try charging the capacitor when connected to the motor, but that really doesn't work. The good thing about rubber powered in this instance - you don't need a switch!

Chris P
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« Last Edit: May 05, 2021, 02:41:56 AM by sx976 » Logged
Robmoff
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« Reply #76 on: May 05, 2021, 02:56:50 AM »

I fly an all Depron Tomboyish type FF indoor model.
Span is 16 inches, weight 19g with undercarriage which I usually leave off, motor run hot for 20sec + cruise for 30 sec and the prop is still turning at 3 minutes if charged to 3.2v, prop from Kyosho RTF Citabria, but the motor/gearbox would swing something a bit bigger but not for as long!
The motor is unplugged for charging, There used to be a DIL switch on the board, but the prop would catch my fingers when switching on, be in not doubt this WILL cut you. I could save weight now that I am using a plug by using less Vero board, and if you used just the one plug/socket for charging and the motor you may save even more.
The charger uses a 18650 lithium cell and sits in a holder and has the inrush resistor in the circuit so the plane does not need to carry that around. I would not like to be without the voltmeter on the charger. I know that it is not the most accurate in absolute terms, but it does tell me when I've charged it enough to get stuck in the rafters.

Rob
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Yak 52
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« Reply #77 on: May 06, 2021, 04:03:06 AM »

The switch issues were one of the reasons to consider adding a Peterborough timer - with or without George's VR circuit. You can then charge the supercap and use a tiny momentary switch as a push button start for the motor. If you don't want to use it as a timer you could set it for a time a little longer than the supercap run.
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sx976
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« Reply #78 on: May 06, 2021, 07:09:56 AM »

Thanks Jon.

That's an interesting suggestion! What I already had on my to do list was to bench test the Chinese timer I showed in Post #59 with a capacitor, just to see if it would work at the lower voltage. Curiosity more than anything.

Chris P
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