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Author Topic: MAAGEN 3  (Read 1800 times)
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dputt7
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« Reply #25 on: March 13, 2020, 01:20:17 AM »

   Thanks Tim,
                  I've now built the upper wing panels, pretty much the same as the lower except a wider cord and ailerons, this meant another set of rib templates and a form to laminate the tips. The ailerons will be adjustable to help with the trimming but are just tack glued into position for sanding. I also increased the main spar to 3/16th sq. for a bit more support.
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ironmike
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« Reply #26 on: March 13, 2020, 01:27:21 PM »

love those wings Davey
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airplay
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« Reply #27 on: March 13, 2020, 03:04:57 PM »

So much fascinated from your build. As a Dane more so. I've seen your Mågen 3 several times and understand your choice. Personally I am preparing a Berg&Storm 3, 1912 peanut indoor myself.
For Danish marine aeroplanes interested you can google translate this link: http://www.marinehist.dk/orlogsbib/Probst-marineflv.pdf
Jens
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Squirrelnet
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« Reply #28 on: March 13, 2020, 05:37:37 PM »

A beautiful build Dave. Love your trailing edge method that looks really cool
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Jack Plane
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« Reply #29 on: March 14, 2020, 02:47:31 AM »

Beautiful aircraft - great build!
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dputt7
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« Reply #30 on: March 18, 2020, 04:33:28 AM »

  Thanks fellas, Jens, thanks for the link, I had found that, very interesting. Is your Berg&Storm 3 the one in the Danish Aircraft Museum, that was closed when we were there. It looks like a R.E,P, and should fly well.

    Started to mount the wings so I glued in the brass tubes against the L.E and rear spar to take the wing dowels and then blocked them in with some balsa. The root ribs are sheeted in 1/16th ply and I let the spars and the tubes pass through them for some extra strength.  I made up a jig so I could bend up the 2 cabane struts the same and then soldered the join. In a sort of do everything at once moment I soldered the cabanes and the wing joiners together using a couple of jigs to hold the wings at the correct incidence. Quite a bit more wire bending and soldering to go yet to stiffen things up.
                                                                                                                                             Dave
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OZPAF
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« Reply #31 on: March 18, 2020, 07:36:00 PM »

Fascinating stuff Dave. It will look impressive with all the wing struts and rigging.

John
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dputt7
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« Reply #32 on: March 22, 2020, 02:49:18 AM »

Some more progress, I spent a lot of time studying all of the photos I took and those available on the net to decide how the engine was mounted between the wings, slowly I realized that the aircraft had been modified during it's time in the museum and I was looking at 2 different mountings. So I chose the current mounting as I had seen it and that also looked the most practical to model.    I finished off all the wire work on the cabane, I wrapped all joints with thin copper wire to strengthen them before soldering, not the most elegant but practical. I think I've bought most of the piano wire in my 2 LHS's. I made up the upper center section and with a bit of fudging was able to cover up all the soldered joints. A laminated ply mount was fabricated for the  HXM2730-1500 brushless motor I hope to use. Now onto the lower center winglets.
                                                                                                                                                     Dave
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Mr Speedy
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« Reply #33 on: March 22, 2020, 03:18:41 AM »

Amazing work, Dave!
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DHnut
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« Reply #34 on: March 22, 2020, 03:55:42 AM »

Dave,
        Another very interesting build. It is a shame there is not going to be a Scalemasters as it was on the to do list this year. I still look forward to seing the flying shots of this model.
Ricky
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OZPAF
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« Reply #35 on: March 22, 2020, 09:42:44 AM »

You made that look easy Dave. It's anything but.! In one go as well!

John

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dputt7
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« Reply #36 on: March 24, 2020, 03:32:39 AM »

  Thanks fellas, Ricky, our boarders are closed the same as yours, it's grim!
Meanwhile the balsa shavings are piling up, I guess you don't get that with laser cutting. I've made up the winglets for the lower wings, it doesn't seem worth the trouble but I suppose every bit of area counts.  After breaking the sheeting around the cockpit several times while working on the cabane I've added the combing to strengthen the edge, on the full size this is also made of wood. Interplane/cabane struts were next, along with the lower wing to fuselage struts, more carving and sanding. Finally the engine mount struts were added to finally cover up all that wire.
                                                                                                                                  Dave
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Pete Fardell
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« Reply #37 on: March 24, 2020, 03:42:08 AM »

It’s looking fab. Lovely shapes! I can’t quite believe how quickly you build either.
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Squirrelnet
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« Reply #38 on: March 24, 2020, 04:44:21 AM »

Beautiful build Dave. I don't know how you build so quickly either
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dputt7
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« Reply #39 on: March 24, 2020, 07:34:47 AM »

  Thanks fellas, it doesn't seem that fast but I do have the advantage of being retired.
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dputt7
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« Reply #40 on: March 26, 2020, 07:58:22 AM »

  Some more progress, Made up the struts and their mounting points, I've used the Gary Sunderland method that I've used many times with out problems. This entails the strut having a tube inside and the a wire is mounted in the wing. The struts slip over the wire and are held in place by the rigging. This enables each pair of wings to be assembled and then slid onto the wire joiners on the cabane. I used .031" wire and 2mm aluminum tube in the struts so they have a bit of clearance to move a bit, I need to wait until the wings are covered and doped so I can set up the strut lengths as they are easily twisted at this point.
       My crew arrived from Dave Banks yesterday, they are brilliant as usual, not too sure what's over on the left there but they all seem very interested.  Oh and I got a couple of spares, guess I can find a project for them later
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Russ Lister
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« Reply #41 on: March 26, 2020, 08:10:04 AM »

That's looking great  Smiley

Best not fly in right hand circles then!
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Pete Fardell
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« Reply #42 on: March 26, 2020, 09:02:08 AM »

Best not fly in right hand circles then!
It's a good point- do DB's pilots always look left?
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dputt7
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« Reply #43 on: March 28, 2020, 04:25:34 AM »

  I checked out my DB pilots, about a dozen and all but 2 are looking left, the other 2 are rear facing gunners that are looking to their right but the aircrafts left  Huh Now I'm not sure if I cut off their heads and turned them  Roll Eyes  Doesn't matter I always fly Scale to the left anyway.
   Meanwhile I've made up the outer tip support struts, I put some small hooks into the wing and the struts will be held in place with a rubber band through the middle.  Also I've mounted the ailerons with copper wire hinges and added all the small blocks and sheeting for the many attachment points, have to have a final check that I've not forgotten any before final sanding and covering.
  Always a concern with flying boats is Tip Floats as they are prone to damage, the Maagen has a very fragile float mounting so I've used thin aluminum to simulate this and hopefully it will just bend or pop out of the wing on a hard contact. Much more to come!
                                                                                                                                                             Dave
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Mr Speedy
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« Reply #44 on: March 28, 2020, 06:23:38 AM »

Neat looking little men!!
I don’t envy their task of test flying a new plane.. however without them, what chance do we have?
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dputt7
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« Reply #45 on: March 30, 2020, 10:21:01 PM »

I've been busy trying to build a 1/12th scale 80hp Gnome. I have no photos of the engine in the aircraft but I know that it is an 80hp gnome and the original engine but just about every photo or drawing I can find is different in some way. So I decided to just go by one set of drawings of a 1913 version.
   I started with the cylinders, I had a piece of Acetal plastic long enough for 9 cylinders so that gave me a chance to machine the 7 needed with some to spare. The fins are only .015" wide and it took some time to turn them all, I did make one mistake so now I have enough for an extra if needed later.
   The crank case is made from 32mm electrical conduit and the rest from various bits of Plasticard, the nuts are Meng made for vehicles and dioramas. For those interested in these engines I found this amazing video for the 9cylinder 100hp Gnome https://youtu.be/Gh3W-9gZXFw.
Next up is the valve gear!
                                                                                                                                                 Dave
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THB
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« Reply #46 on: March 30, 2020, 10:31:30 PM »

Nice work Dave - I'm paying attention because I have to make a 3 cylinder soon.
Tim
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Tim
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dputt7
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« Reply #47 on: March 30, 2020, 10:48:12 PM »

  Tim did you get my e-mail, I have cylinders! Grin
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THB
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« Reply #48 on: March 30, 2020, 11:20:25 PM »

Ah! No I didn't see the email. Thanks very much! I'll let you know re cylinders. I thought I had some but haven't looked yet. I will probably press on with 'orange' because it was the colour of Mooney's model - and I need another orange airplane now I've lost the Baby Ajax! And it was prob the colour of the original Viri?
The link is GREAT - the engine detail particularly. Damn...  now I have to make something that looks like I've seen these photos :-)
cheers
Tim
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Tim
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dputt7
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« Reply #49 on: April 01, 2020, 10:10:13 AM »

Continued to work on the 80hp Gnome, turned up a form to represent the Inlet / exhaust Valve and head and then plunge molded them. Cut out some rocker arms from plasicard, wound some wire around a drill to form the valve springs and punched out the spring retainers with a sharpened piece of brass tube. I then cut out the rocker posts and added the bolt heads to them. Once assembled they were fitted to the cylinders, I was going to carefully drill out the Inlet / Exhaust ports in the head but I chickened out, I figure a black painted port should do. They're not exactly scale but close enough to challange these old fingers.
   Next  I turned up an aluminium motor mount so I could mount the Brushless motor inside the crankcase, there's not a lot of clearance inside but I'm sure the motor should stay cool enough for a 40-50 second motor run other wise I could drill some holes in the back plate. Once I get it all together I can do a bench test to see how cool it runs.
                                                                                                                                                    Dave
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