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Author Topic: "Doping" Silkspan 2  (Read 213 times)
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RolandD6
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« on: March 14, 2020, 09:24:54 PM »

A question.

I had been pondering what to do about covering the fuselage of my Guillows Bf 109 project. Eventually I remembered I had some Silkspan 2 (nominal 9 gsm) in my stash. At least that was the name given to it by the shop owner. I have had it for at least 10 years and totally forgotten about it.

I put the tissue on the frame very wet and used Deluxe Materials tissue paste, the theory being the paste would take longer to dry than the tissue so it would give a little as the tissue shrunk. It worked but the paste is not very strong so I went over the lap joints with a coat or two of un-pigmented acrylic ink.

The next step is some sort of sealer. I expect most people used regular nitrate dope in the past but the question is, has anybody successfully used one of the more recent alternatives like:

* Deluxe Materials Ezydope;

* Acrylic floor finished like Future; or

* Acrylic ink.

Any comments welcome.

Thanks  

Paul

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"Doping" Silkspan 2
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PB_guy
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« Reply #1 on: March 14, 2020, 11:10:43 PM »

There are, of course, many ways of finishing. See: https://easybuiltmodels.com/Notes_on_tissuing.pdf for instance.
I wonder if anyone has used gelatin to seal the pores in tissue before applying a finish?
I tried the Acrylic floor finishes, but they aren't waterproof. They are water resistant, but the finish isn't that great. I like a thinned laquer finish because it works like dope used to and seals fairly well. I used 'Krylon' clear spray finish, but they have recently changed their formula, and I don't know if it works as well anymore.
ian
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RolandD6
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« Reply #2 on: March 26, 2020, 11:53:57 PM »

I have just completed some experiments to see what works for me using the materials I have on hand.

Please keep in mind that I suffer from asthma which is easily triggered by fumes and dust. For example I vacuumed the house yesterday and forgot to wear a face mask when putting the cleaner away. Some dust escaped and got into my chest triggering a reaction.

People who can cope with dope, lacquers and solvents may also be interested particularly if they have someone in the house who is sensitive.

First up I made three balsa frames with stringers to represent the fuselage framework of my Guillows Bf 109 project and covered them with the silkspan tissue taking care to ensure the grain of the tissue was orientated the same as what is already on the model airplane. I did use three different types of tissue adhesive which are not really relevant except to say the Deluxe Materials Tissue Paste worked the best of the three. I can have problems with the Deluxe paste if the framework is large because it dries a bit too quickly for me. The other adhesives where slower drying but not as successful in sticking down the relatively stiff silkspan. They seemed to work OK when the tissue was applied wet but lost grip as the tissue dried and stiffened.

The first image shows one of the frames. It was the least successful of the lot. The initial coating on the tissue was a mixture of 25% water and 75% acrylic vinyl floor finish, (see the second image). The Armstrong Satin Vinyl Floor Finish and the Gemini brand next to it are made in Melbourne Australia by the same company. I believe these products are similar to Johnsons Future and I choose to use the satin variety in this case because it contains minute opaque particles, possibly mica, which add opacity and help to fill the tissue pores.

There clearly is a problem with the red Jacquard Dye-na-Flow creeping along the balsa stringers on the right hand side. I tried to create a barrier with red acrylic paint (Matisse Flow) but the Dye-na-Flow got into the balsa fibres as you can see in the image. It is a dye and is meant to spread. On the left hand side I painted a line of clear acrylic ink, (see the third image), being extra generous over the balsa stringers. When that was dry, I painted a coloured line being a 50/50 mixture of the red Dye-na-Flow and Derivan Matisse Faux Finish and Marbling Gel, (see the fourth image). This gel is formulated to prevent or restrict mixing of adjacent wet acrylic ink or paint colours. I then filled in the rest of the area with red Dye-na-Flow before the red line had completely dried. There was still a bit of red creep but the result was better. I did put a coat of white Dye-na-Flow over the top but clearly it is not sufficiently opaque. In hind sight I could have painted the tissue first with white Dye-na-Flow but I doubt that would have been sufficient to hinder creep of the red colour.

I used a different approach on the second sample, (see the fifth image). Initially the tissue was coated with a single coat of 2/3 Armstrong Satin Vinyl Floor Finish and 1/3 Daler Rowney FW Acrylic Artists Ink, (see the sixth image). This ink is much more opaque than any of the Dye-na-Flow colours and the white is probably especially heavy because the pigment is most likely titanium dioxide, (specific gravity ~= 4). The Dye-na-Flow white pigment is also probably titanium dioxide but much less of it. Next I repeated the clear ink line and then the red Dye-na-Flow/Marbling Gel line and then applied two coats of the red. There was still a small amount of red creep but it could be covered with a little bit more FW white.

Continued in the next post.
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RolandD6
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« Reply #3 on: March 27, 2020, 12:23:59 AM »

Next I did some lettering using three types of pen and Derwent Inktense colour. The blurred bit of lettering at the top was done with an Artline drawing pen which is clearly not waterproof. Somehow I mistakenly included it in my collection of waterproof pens. The words Faber Castell and Pitt where done with Faber Castell Pitt Artists Pens, (see first image). The words ZIG 0.5 where done with a ZIG Drawing Pen, (see second image) and the yellow colour patch is Derwent Inktense water colour block or pencil colour. The Inktense colours are water soluble but become water resistant when dry.

Last I applied a coat of the clear acrylic ink as a sealer to show the ZIG pen, Pitt pens and the Inktense colours are waterproof.

The third image shows a sample which is essentially the same as the second example except that the ratio of FW white to acrylic floor finish was 25% / 75%.

The lettering was done with different pens. The coloured ZIG letters were done with ZIG Writer pens, (see the fourth image) and the little colour patches were done with ZIG Millennium pens, (see the fifth image). It appears that only black is available in the equivalent Millennium range now which is a pity because these colour pens have a 0.2 mm tip.

Once again the sample was coated with clear acrylic ink.

Perhaps this will be of some use to someone.

Paul
Attached files Thumbnail(s):
Re: "Doping" Silkspan 2
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