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Author Topic: Spoked wheels...  (Read 368 times)
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kaintuck
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« on: April 29, 2020, 07:11:51 PM »

 Grin thanks to George, I'm starting my spoke wheels for a upcoming sopwith camel build....





Ratz Edit: Fixed Smiley Face  Grin
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TheLurker
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« Reply #1 on: May 01, 2020, 06:55:09 AM »

Morning Kaintuck,

You're in excellent hands with George's tutorial and good results are easy to achieve with it.  A couple of things I found that may be helpful.

1 - A two pronged fork of soft balsa with the tines set at the right gap to sit over both runs of the spoke being added makes it easier to set the tension on the "top" spokes. You can push both spokes down (gently) and tighten up/slacken off the free end until the spokes sit against the rim without being too taught.  If you get them too tight you end up with a buckled wheel. DAIHKT.  Smiley

2 - I found that the easiest way to clamp down the upper /  outer tyre was as shown in the pic.  The large bit of (hard) balsa has a rectangular hole for the jig's axle spindle and the rest of the upper stack is made up of large washers.

Cheers,
Lurk
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g_kandylakis
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« Reply #2 on: May 01, 2020, 04:21:28 PM »

both very valid points...
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scale free flight & micro RC
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« Reply #3 on: May 05, 2020, 01:23:17 PM »

1 - A two pronged fork of soft balsa with the tines set at the right gap to sit over both runs of the spoke being added makes it easier to set the tension on the "top" spokes. You can push both spokes down (gently) and tighten up/slacken off the free end until the spokes sit against the rim without being too taught.

I’m keen to try my hands at making spoked wheels, but i, struggling to understand the above. Could i please ask for a photo to show how the two pronged balsa works?

Was trying to study the attached photo but can’t work out the above.

Thanks in advance.

Regards
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TheLurker
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« Reply #4 on: May 05, 2020, 01:29:08 PM »

Give me an hour or two and I'll put up a sketch, just about to start my evening build session and building waits for neither man nor spoked wheel! Smiley

Cheers,
Lurk
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TheLurker
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« Reply #5 on: May 05, 2020, 03:42:25 PM »

Here we go.  It's a bit rough and highly simplified to show the essentials.  If it's not clear shout and I'll try and come up with something a bit clearer.

You may need to hit the, "make it bigger" button on the thumbnail viewer.

Cheers,
Lurk.

P.S.
No, that's not how you spell "taut" in this context.  Sorry, but it's been long day.
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« Reply #6 on: May 06, 2020, 02:54:00 AM »

Here we go.  It's a bit rough and highly simplified to show the essentials.  If it's not clear shout and I'll try and come up with something a bit clearer.

You may need to hit the, "make it bigger" button on the thumbnail viewer.

Cheers,
Lurk.

P.S.
No, that's not how you spell "taut" in this context.  Sorry, but it's been long day.

Thank you very much, it’s clear now.

Regards
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kaintuck
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« Reply #7 on: May 09, 2020, 07:54:16 AM »

Taught threads by tying a small piece of elastic thread to your spoke thread.....go around the pins, anchor it....so when you push the hub down, the thread stays tight....but not crushing tight Grin
And steel some of the wife's hair clams to get the wheel halves together......and or small doll clothes pins...
Marc n tomtom
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kaintuck
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« Reply #8 on: May 09, 2020, 12:33:52 PM »

More thoughts on my cutters....I'm wanting a center post next time I make one.....
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kaintuck
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« Reply #9 on: May 10, 2020, 12:54:08 PM »

30mm wheels a-commin' Grin
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kaintuck
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« Reply #10 on: May 16, 2020, 07:08:53 PM »

Here's my new 30mm cutter, simple, takes just a little elbow grease, and if this solder joint don't hold, I'll just resolver....
Notice I made the tire groove smaller....as I make smaller wheels....the tire gets smaller diameter.
This will cut 2 cuts....top and bottom on the jig that holds them while lacing....
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