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Author Topic: My last Pistachio?  (Read 1349 times)
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TheLurker
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« Reply #25 on: August 11, 2020, 02:03:02 PM »

Or you could go for the low, low* tech. sol'n and use triangles of hard balsa.  This pic is of a peanut build rather than a pistachio, but should work just as well.


*Did I mention lazy? I should have.  Smiley
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Pete Fardell
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« Reply #26 on: August 11, 2020, 02:36:57 PM »

Jenga blocks are good too. Also, if you want to know if it’s possible to build an off-kilter fuselage even with lots of right angled jigging aids: it is, and I’m the man for the job!
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Squirrelnet
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« Reply #27 on: August 11, 2020, 03:17:06 PM »

Quote
Or you could go for the low, low* tech. sol'n and use triangles of hard balsa

I'm a fan of this method too, er sometimes even less than that but using the eye and the drawing underneath to line it up ... seems to work if you have straight edge in the fuselage somewhere 
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DavidJP
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« Reply #28 on: August 12, 2020, 03:55:36 AM »

I have had some success with magnets on my metal building board for “squaring” things and they can act as clamps too.
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ZK-AUD
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« Reply #29 on: August 12, 2020, 05:25:50 AM »

One of the reasons my builds seem to take so long is that if the fuselage is curvy I make a form the profile of the fuselage and pre-shape the sides.  Typically I use steam or brush on ammonia.   Then clamp the sides down to the form and bake gently for about 30 minutes in the oven at 90 c.  Game over.  No stresses and strains to pull anything out of alignment  when lacing it all up.
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Tim Horne
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« Reply #30 on: August 12, 2020, 09:10:50 PM »

Thanks for all the replies and advice. It will be handy for the next build.
I have ordered a pair of magnifying glasses. There are loads on eBay for about a tenner.

The model is creeping forward. The cowl is made and I have been adding a lot of the many bits needed to properly shape the fuselage. The last bits to do are two stringers on each side of the fuse.
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Tim Horne
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« Reply #31 on: August 13, 2020, 03:31:49 PM »

Almost finished the woodwork now. The only things yet to make are the wing struts. Today I finished the stringers on the fuse; added the motor peg mounts and made the fin/ rudder. Total is 1.48g.

Couldn’t resist the obligatory mock up shots.
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Tim Horne
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« Reply #32 on: August 13, 2020, 03:44:28 PM »

There are lots of gorgeous looking Staggerwings to model and I hope to do a larger open rubber version one day. For this one I wanted something relatively straightforward to paint and detail as I am very aware of how easy it is to pile on too much weight on little models. So this is my intended scheme. This Staggerwing is based in the UK.
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flydean1
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« Reply #33 on: August 13, 2020, 08:11:50 PM »

Your framework has captured the character of the airplane.  Excellent work.
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DavidJP
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« Reply #34 on: August 16, 2020, 05:26:55 AM »

Remarkable progress with this build Tim.  Are you still on holiday?  Huh.....see you had to show off about the weight.  I don’t want to know frankly.  Cheesy Wink
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Tim Horne
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« Reply #35 on: September 07, 2020, 02:46:46 PM »

Back to work now so progress has slowed to my usual crawl. I have at last got the fuse structure complete and wing interplane struts made.

Next job was covering. The flying surfaces were straightforward but the fuse! 13 separate tiny pieces of tissue nearly drove me mad. At least I am happy with the shape so I won't be having to build fuse MK2 which I feared might happen.

I do now have one of those magnifying lens glasses which you can see in one of the pics. A sensible and useful investment I think. It has a built in LED light as well.

Total weight of parts now is 2.8g. The only extra structure needed is the windscreen and the prop. After that paint and noseweight.
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Pete Fardell
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« Reply #36 on: September 07, 2020, 03:31:29 PM »

That’s a lovely little set of parts. This is going to be a gem. 2.8g sounds very light to me, even for a pistachio.
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Russ Lister
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« Reply #37 on: September 07, 2020, 03:53:41 PM »

Looking good and sounding light, Tim  Smiley
Those Humbrol tins lend scale to the parts  Shocked
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Tim Horne
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« Reply #38 on: September 13, 2020, 08:56:44 AM »

Thanks chaps, lets hope it still seems light after I've finished it! As a good Pistachio should really be about 2 -3g complete I think mine will still be heavy Sad.

Some progress has been made and I now have an airframe. The glazing is cut to shape and ready to go on although I may do some cockpit detailing first.

I am going to make a prop to Dave Linstrum's design as that was recommended to me by Dave Prior. However Dave suggested making plastic blades and I have never had success gluing plastic blades to a balsa hub. Has anyone else done this successfully and if so how did you glue the blades on?
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OZPAF
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« Reply #39 on: September 13, 2020, 09:09:26 PM »

Simply delightful Tim. Give yourself a pat on the back Smiley

John
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Rhys
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« Reply #40 on: September 13, 2020, 10:25:50 PM »

Most beautiful, Tim Horne! What tissue are you covering with?

Rhys
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Russ Lister
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« Reply #41 on: September 14, 2020, 02:36:14 AM »

That looks great, Tim  Smiley
I'd be pretty elated if I could get that down to 5g!
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kaintuck
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« Reply #42 on: September 14, 2020, 07:52:31 AM »

Tim, use canopy glue for plastic blades to a balsa hub....works great!
Marc
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Russ Lister
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« Reply #43 on: September 14, 2020, 08:37:24 AM »

Tim,
Missed the bit about the plastic blades.
On my 'Clemm' type Bostonian props, I used a Loctite superglue billed as 'for plastics' .... I'll find the proper name?
Superglue doesn't always work for me but this did.

Edit: 'All Plastics' seems to be the current equivalent.
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PB_guy
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« Reply #44 on: September 14, 2020, 12:03:50 PM »

I would consider a 'mechanical' connection. Drill a couple of pinholes into the plastic blades to accept the glue. And if you wanted both suspenders and belt, you could possibly put a couple of bamboo splinters through the holes and into the wooden material supporting the blades.
ian
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