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Author Topic: Fuel cut off  (Read 224 times)
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gossie
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« on: October 08, 2020, 08:35:24 PM »

Red buzzard Bill has a problem with shut off on his Diesel engined model.
I suggested to him to get the shut off as close to the needle valve as possible.
My Webra Record does not instantly shut down but does shut down with no burble.
 A pic for you Bill and others.
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Red Buzzard
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« Reply #1 on: October 09, 2020, 01:15:58 PM »

Gossie,

Thanks for the pic. Looks like a strangler under the mount lug? To accomplish the same result I think I will make a small fixture to move the Texas Timer remote pinch off "up" above the lug and closer to the venturi inlet. It would eliminate about 1/2" worth of tubing in doing so. I'll see what happens.

Thanks again,

Bill
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gossie
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« Reply #2 on: October 09, 2020, 04:48:00 PM »

Strangler it is Bill.
That was the nearest I could get it to the needle valve.
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flydean1
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« Reply #3 on: October 09, 2020, 09:41:57 PM »

Do you happen to have one of those off a model.  A photo of it would help these aging brain cells visualize the required bends.  Huh Roll Eyes Huh
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gossie
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« Reply #4 on: October 09, 2020, 10:45:34 PM »

Look carefully Dean and you will see the bends.
It's 20swg piano wire from rear bearer hole screwed down, then forward to front with a loop, then down with a loop to take a line from the Seelig.
When the line is pulled back the front loop opens and you can feed you soft fuel tube through it from needle valve to tank.
When Seelig lets go tube gets crushed, and BINGO.......You know the rest.
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flydean1
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« Reply #5 on: October 09, 2020, 10:59:58 PM »

I see the bends.  Looks like the forward one is lined up with the mount hole at least from the angle of the shot.  Trying to visualize how that would stop the engine.  I'm probably over thinking it.
I'm imagining the fuel line fed thru the front mount hole but that's probably wrong.

What is that long dark think that secures the shutoff to the rear hole and projects up against the cylinder?
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Red Buzzard
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« Reply #6 on: October 13, 2020, 12:19:35 AM »

Hi All,

Gossie's little device is similar to others I have heard of. For those who don't run diesels the problem of run-on is much worse than a glow. I watched my "standard" set-up of a Texas Timers Max timer, with a line to a Texas Timers remote pinch off mounted on one lug with regular pinch off fuel line to the spray bar, run my Rustler Oliver T-2 replica for at least 2 seconds after the pinch off shut off. The engine did not stumble or stutter to speak of until it gradually ran down.

A friend suggested making the tubing run from the pinch off to the spray bar as short as possible - ie. Gossie's design though he still has some length to his tubing. The same friend said to use "hard tube" on the engine side of the pinch off so the engine cannot collapse the soft tubing. In an effort to cut down the volume of the tubing from pinch off to engine I tried a piece of Tygon tubing from an IV set up with an I.D. of about .050. This tubing is both small and quite hard and had to be bent with a heat gun. This proved too small an I.D. to serve the engine's needs. I could probably have unscrewed the needle all the way out to no effect as the engine just kept screaming away. Probably too lean, so I shut it down. Then I replaced the .050 Tygon tube with a piece of soft copper tubing with an I.D. of .062, from the pinch off to the needle inlet. This made little difference to the run-on problem, but did allow proper adjustment of the needle. My next move will be a small bracket to get the remote pinch off within about 1/4" of the inlet. We shall see.

Meanwhile I'm attaching pics of the model in question. It is a Creep, enlarged 5%, and running a Rustler Oliver T-2 replica, at the moment. The first pic is the standard set-up. The next pic is the little piece of Tygon tubing. I regret that I don't have the bracket made yet, and will be away for about a week before I can dedicate any time to the project. Sorry. Other ideas or set ups would be at least interesting.

Thanks,

Bill
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gossie
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« Reply #7 on: October 13, 2020, 01:02:55 AM »

That's probably about as you will do it Bill.   Slightly lean engine run might help a bit.  And a lovely engine you have there.

That long dark thing Dean is simply a 6BA bolt and nut to hold the rear of the strangler on, and yes, you feed the soft tube from the engine through the hole to the tank.
When you pull the wire back to the timer it opens the hole, and when the timer lets go it squashes the tube and BINGO...........
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Red Buzzard
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« Reply #8 on: October 13, 2020, 12:27:50 PM »

Yep Gossie, the engine is a Rustler T-2 that I bought from Ian Russell in England. It was one of the last that he assembled. It is just coming into its own after careful break in and really goes. Currently on a Master Airscrew narrow blade 9x4 with thinned and reprofiled tips. Great combo. I think the engine is only available now via the 'Bay or private sale but Ian might know differently.

Bill
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