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Author Topic: Decathlon how to finish?  (Read 218 times)
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Jorgefly
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« on: October 12, 2020, 05:07:26 AM »

Hello from Spain, I have just covered my decathlon, it’s my first time, so could anybody help me with the process of removing wrinkles with dope or water mist?
And what about the color finishing?
Should I do it with color tissue pieces or painting with airbrush?
Thanks
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Decathlon how to finish?
Decathlon how to finish?
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THB
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« Reply #1 on: October 12, 2020, 05:32:13 AM »

Nice work! First model?? I only use colour tissue - which I think would work with this colour scheme.
I do a light water mist to shrink the tissue. If you get it all too wet it soaks through to the balsa and shrinks more and twists the damp wood, and warps the wings etc. So just a light spray and see what happens. If there are wrinkles that won't go away - or get worse, you can cut out the bad bit and recover / patch it. Because you have a white tissue base this should work well.

Then I dope with 50/50 dope/thinners, and then piece by piece dope on the colour tissue.

One day I will buy an airbrush. And I will have to learn how to use it - so others may be able to help if you decide to go that way!

cheers
Tim
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Tim
"Life is what happens while you're busy making other planes."
flydean1
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« Reply #2 on: October 12, 2020, 10:14:15 AM »

I use rubbing alcohol as the first spray.  Doesn't soak in and evaporates quickly.  Stubborn wrinkles in corners etc can be handled with water or saliva brushed on.  Sometimes it takes more than one time to get wrinkles out.  Alcohol first, water/saliva second.  Then, if I really feel the need, I will cut out the offending piece and re-cover.

If this is your first Free Flight model, priority is getting it in the air.  A few wrinkles here and there won't hurt.
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Jorgefly
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« Reply #3 on: October 12, 2020, 10:29:14 AM »

I use rubbing alcohol as the first spray.  Doesn't soak in and evaporates quickly.  Stubborn wrinkles in corners etc can be handled with water or saliva brushed on.  Sometimes it takes more than one time to get wrinkles out.  Alcohol first, water/saliva second.  Then, if I really feel the need, I will cut out the offending piece and re-cover.

If this is your first Free Flight model, priority is getting it in the air.  A few wrinkles here and there won't hurt.

After remove the wrinkles do you dope? And how do you finish it? Panting or color tissue?

Thanks
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flydean1
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« Reply #4 on: October 12, 2020, 12:26:59 PM »

After shrinking yes, dope.  Non-shrinking nitrate if you can get it.  Be sure to thin it.  About 25% dope and 75% thinner. Butyrate dope is OK, but never seems to stop shrinking.  For color, most use colored tissue.  Apply 2 coats of the thinned dope.  Cut out the trim from colored tissue.  Hold in place and brush thinner thru the tissue to stick it to the doped surface underneath.  Some apply an additional coat of thin dope over the model after the colored tissue is in place, but it is hardly neccessary.

Paint is very heavy and will hurt flight performance.  The only large group that uses paint are my friends in the UK who do not use duration as a criteria in scale competition.

I would suggest for your first, a couple coats of thin dope.  Some colored tissue that you like, and get on with flying.  Just get it in the air!  Save that competition model for the future.  Enjoy your Citabria, wind it up and watch it fly.
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Jorgefly
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« Reply #5 on: October 14, 2020, 06:20:12 AM »

Thanks for your advices but I have decided to paint it whit airbrush.
It is powered by a gasparin g24t twin so it’s all a little heavy...
The plane weights with dope finish 24 gr for 18” span.
I will paint it as light I could.
I noticed that de dumas plastic wheels are heavy (1gr) ugly an very thin so could you tell me any tecnic to build lighter ones with balsa and foam?
Thanks
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