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Author Topic: tissue detatched from undercamber wing  (Read 818 times)
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Fergy
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« Reply #25 on: June 30, 2020, 01:41:17 AM »

I'm sorry that I can't help you with the tissue detaching, but my Senator (built last year for electric power and rudder only R/C), was covered using 50% PVA and water. Applied to the underside of every rib and did the job perfectly.

I have now used Eze Dope successfully on my second attempt. Using wet strength tissue by Ben Buckle applied wetted with VERY thin Easy Dope, and full strength PVA as the adhesive. When dry and fully shrunk, applying several thinned coats of Eze Dope gave a highly satisfactory result.

Advantages of Eze Dope were the lack of smell so I could do the covering in the house instead of my shed, Also the thinned Eze Dope was in an open tub and final coats were applied over an evening and the following morning without sealing the container. Try that with cellulose dope.

A previous attempt failed because I treated Eze Dope as if it was cellulose dope...HUGE mistake and dramatic failure putting me off it's use for a long time.


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riversidedan
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« Reply #26 on: December 06, 2020, 03:14:59 PM »

toss that "slezzy dope" in the crapper its a waste of $$$$ and time>>>>>>>>>ya cant beat banana dope for reliability and well worth the money, after all we are hooked on that old time banana smell right Cool
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atesus
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« Reply #27 on: December 06, 2020, 03:32:12 PM »

As many have already said, I find it is essential to let the glue stick dry thoroughly, overnight at least, to eliminate tissue detachment from undercamber ribs. Before I figured this out it was hit and miss. With some brands of glue stick, nothing seems to help though. UHU permanent is one of the best ones I've tried, 3M being a close second. I haven't had good luck with store brands.
--Ates
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Viperkite
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« Reply #28 on: December 06, 2020, 04:08:43 PM »

The best glue stick I have found is 49 pence for 4 from a local store. Better than the expensive ones.
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riversidedan
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« Reply #29 on: December 06, 2020, 06:51:26 PM »

save your $$$$ gents why buy the high price spread go grab some elmers purple stick 6 fer $2 ya cant go wrong and does the same job for 1/2 the price
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kittyfritters
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« Reply #30 on: December 06, 2020, 07:58:33 PM »

As many have already said, I find it is essential to let the glue stick dry thoroughly, overnight at least, to eliminate tissue detachment from undercamber ribs. Before I figured this out it was hit and miss. With some brands of glue stick, nothing seems to help though. UHU permanent is one of the best ones I've tried, 3M being a close second. I haven't had good luck with store brands.
--Ates

Having used glue stick exclusively since 2004 I have found that the important thing when selecting a glue stick is that it is "permanent".  All the brands of permanent glue stick seem to work well.  A glue stick labeled "archival" is even better.  They will stick well even when covering wet with silkspan.  Anything labeled with the word "school" on it  is unusable.  Those are designed so that the glue can be washed out of the kid's clothes.  The tissue will detach on the first dewy morning at the flying field.

KF
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lincoln
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« Reply #31 on: December 07, 2020, 11:44:59 PM »

I've found that glue stick works better  when it's fresh. For indoor models that won't be doped, a good grade of glue stick is my preferred method. I haven't tried the permanent stuff yet. If it's like water resistant carpenter's glue, it probably needs a few days to harden up. I'd probably try Titebond 3 if permanent glue stick didn't work out for me, and I needed something that didn't stink.

Not all dope is equally sticky. In my somewhat limited experience, hardware store lacquer and Sig nitrate don't stick very well. Certified Coatings nitrate for full scale is fairly sticky. Sticky enough to patch a fabric boat. Sig Stix It and a full scale product called Fab Tac are even stickier. I put them on the balsa, let dry, and brush acetone through the tissue to attach. However, I haven't done concave surfaces yet. Sticky It has an odd habit of escaping the can, but dried blobs can be reactivated with thinner and maybe acetone.

I've heard of people using thinned Ambroid to stick tissue down.
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gman
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« Reply #32 on: December 08, 2020, 06:17:41 AM »

The Senator wing section has got a lot of undercamber. I fell foul of detaching covering when I double covered, tissue over Mylar, my Senator some years ago now. When I cover this way I pre-dope the Mylar then "flood" the tissue with water over the Mylar and smooth it down with thinners on a soft brush. Each time (I'm a slow learner so I did it several times!) the drying tissue popped the Mylar off the undercamber necessitating removing the Mylar and starting again. Eventually I remembered handling Phil Ball's "Waif" 50g rubber model at a Free Flight Forum and that he had covered the underside tissue over Mylar in about inch wide strips. I imagined at the time that it was Phil being parsimonious with tissue but realised that in fact he was able to minimise the chordwise shrinkage in this way. For me problem solved, and maybe it would solve the problem using straight tissue, just cover the bottom surface in strips between spars?
Gavin
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