Copland ‘36 Streamliner 33:09 Int’l record holder before Korda

[Romeo_Delta]

Robert Copland’s British Champ.

[Romeo_Delta]

Photo test

[Romeo_Delta]

I don’t like the paper overlap behind the wing. It’s esaki with glue stick. Any ideas how to do that better? I haven’t sealed the esaki I really don’t want to, I like the natural look and feel of the paper.

[Romeo_Delta]

The landing gear don’t last long I’ve broken 2 wooden dowels and cracked a bamboo one. I’m making every effort to keep it to the plan but I may go to wire gear but I really don’t like how wire gear looks

[Romeo_Delta]

Mr Copland added this movable lead weight to adjust CG on the fly.

[Romeo_Delta]

Bare bones

[Romeo_Delta]

Wingtip wrapped with 1/32 basswood strip gleaned from flyguy & Maxfliart.

[Flyguy]

Beautiful! Not sure what the problem is behind the wing, it looks pretty good to me. Landing gear - I've always had that problem with wood/bamboo landing gear if you're not flying on tall grass, you could attach the dowel with wire so it can flex, which helps, but I think it will still look nice with wire gear, I'm not going to put the fairings on the Wasp for that same reason (its removable, so I might make the fairings/wheel pants for show, but not for flying). I'd strongly recommend doping the esaki, otherwise you won't be able to fly on moist days because it will loosen (that's why I like Mylar, really humid here, I had tissue loosening even with 3 coats of thinned dope). How does it fly?

Would be nice if you could rotate those photos 90 degrees, lovely to look at but my neck is a little sore!

[Romeo_Delta]

Added gussets to the horizontal stabilizer mount, one of the few times I strayed from the plans.
The rudder is held down with a dress button, kinda funny.

[Romeo_Delta]

Beautiful! Not sure what the problem is behind the wing, it looks pretty good to me. Landing gear - I've always had that problem with wood/bamboo landing gear if you're not flying on tall grass, you could attach the dowel with wire so it can flex, which helps, but I think it will still look nice with wire gear, I'm not going to put the fairings on the Wasp for that same reason (its removable, so I might make the fairings/wheel pants for show, but not for flying). I'd strongly recommend doping the esaki, otherwise you won't be able to fly on moist days because it will loosen (that's why I like Mylar, really humid here, I had tissue loosening even with 3 coats of thinned dope). How does it fly?

Would be nice if you could rotate those photos 90 degrees, lovely to look at but my neck is a little sore!

Thank you flyguy I'm in SoCal where the humidity is non-existent usually but we do have some today and I notice there are paper wrinkles in the pictures but hardly noticeable to the naked eye.

Coating with dope: I just didn’t want it to be more opaque. I like opaque normally but in this model I really like the milky appearance.
Sorry about the 90* pics I did some trials to set them correctly and couldn’t easily so I decided to leave them. They appear accurate when I post them. Probably an iPhone thing.

How’s it fly?: It’s flown twice on three hundred winds it flew nicely but still not enough to trim plus it broke the prop both times. I ordered a folder blank even though it isn’t on the original plan I don’t care at this point I just want to fly without incident heh.

[Kevin M]

Lovely model.

Sorry about the 90* pics I did some trials to set them correctly and couldn’t easily so I decided to leave them. They appear accurate when I post them. Probably an iPhone thing.

I think it is an iPhone thing, but if you select each photo in your iPhone, use the edit button and select the crop and rotate icon (a square with rotation arrows), there is a 90 degrees rotation facility. Rotate them in the 'phone first, then post, and they should come out the right way up.

[Flyguy]

Thank you flyguy I'm in SoCal where the humidity is non-existent usually but we do have some today and I notice there are paper wrinkles in the pictures but hardly noticeable to the naked eye.

Coating with dope: I just didn’t want it to be more opaque. I like opaque normally but in this model I really like the milky appearance.

Doping it should make it more translucent, not more opaque. By the way, if you notice that you have some wrinkles/loosening because of humidity, be sure not to fly it, that's a good way to fold a wing (you lose the strengthening of the taught tissue), voice of experience talking!

[Romeo_Delta]

Kevin - thank you for the kind words and the photo recommendations. I will try it again, it seems i could only get that to work sometimes. So it must be an error on my end.
Flyguy - you are correct I should have said I want to maintain the translucency/opacity.
I should pay more attention when discussing light with a physics professor. Lol


Fairing the elevator rudder and the wing roots in remains to be completed.
I really enjoyed this model from Bob Holman plans page.
Website for build instructions and prints from 1940 Airtrails magazine:
http://www.theplanpage.com/Months/2305/champ_files/champ.pdf

[Flyguy]

Yes, another way to put it is that doping will make it slightly more transparent, I guess you want to avoid that. But another thing you should think about is that doping strengthens the tissue, it's kind of soft without the dope, the dope stiffens it up which adds strength. But in any case its a lovely model and you did an excellent job!

PS - actually I'm a professor of statistics/measurement, that's where the domoremath moniker on youtube comes from! flyguy refers to the fact that, although I enjoy building a great deal, I really like flying the best!

[pbrown]

Hi
Iv'e built a couple of these.
For the bamboo landing gear, I cheated and used round carbon tubes covered in balsa and then sanded to airfoil section.
They don't break.
Of course if you are a purest that's a big no no.
Pete

[Mark Braunlich]

See link for the 1936 model flown under the 4oz rules by Copland.  This streamliner is likely from 1939 and flown under 8oz rules.

https://outerzone.co.uk/plan_details.asp?ID=8955

[Flyguy]

It's in the 1938 Zaic yearbook on page 86 where it's noted that it's a 1937 Wakefield. Also, many of the wakes that year had a sheeted fuselage, but I've always seen them done with stringers without the sheeting, the Cahill 'clodhopper' and Golden Eagle are other examples.

[skyrocket]

As a sidebar, I did build a half size streamliner and was amazed at the steady way they fly...it didn't have much duration potential but looked cool as all get out...in the 1944 "The Model Aeronautical Digest" by Warring and Copeland there are many streamliners...the Makenzie one looks promising...

[Flyguy]

Thanks for that reference, I was able to download it and there are lots of cool looking planes in it!

Just a little further sidebar - from the Zaic yearbooks, I've always thought the 'Kievet' was a really nice looking streamliner, though I've never seen it built, scan attached.

Also I thought it was interesting that Korda made a streamliner with a gull wing, scan attached.

[skyrocket]

DUH...I went back and looked at all your photos and you did a truly great job in the construction...you will spray it black fuselage won't you?

[vintagemike]

Just be carefull with the McKenzie wakefield, there is half a rainforest full of balsa in that fuselage!! interesting construction though. I remember one of these being built in the 90,s and it was a little overweight for competition use, maybe a better bet would be the Bell Wakefield, slightly easier construction and by all accounts a good flyer

[skyrocket]

I have a  3" binder chock full of 8 oz. wakes by country and  the one that keeps coming out is the 1946 Copeland...I would be tempted to build one but I'd rather one with bulkheads because I just can't see making all those hoops...I'm crazy but...........

[skyrocket]

I  think I will draw up the Mackenzie and see how that looks because it has a 21" folding prop...the 1936 Copeland streamliner looks like the 1946 and I haven't seen one in the flesh or in a magazine...we'll see...

[skyrocket]

I started to draw the Mackenzie but you guys are right...too much wood...so I'm building a half size 1946 Copeland again with formers...the first one flew very nice and steady and lasted 3 seasons...