My current build: 1939 Miss Worlds Fair, designed by Herb Greenberg

[PantherM100]

Hi Guys:
I’ve been trying to post a photo of my
1939 Miss Worlds Fair designed by
Herb Greenberg. It’s the 50.0” full size (original size)
Vers9ion It's a bare bones
Photo less covering, rubber, but including
Prop it’s current weight is 4.40 ounces
or 127 grams.  Covering to be printed Esaki over
Mylar.  Power to be 14 strands of 1/8 rubber.  Hand
Winds for trim flights.  Blasivich winder with torque
Meter for full power flights.  Rubber motor to be wound
Outside the fuselage in a blast tube.  Then blast tube / motor
Attached to rear peg, remove blast tube, attach prop and
“Throw it Hard” as a friend of mine used to say.
Sincerely,
Jon B. Shereshaw

[calgoddard]

Jon -

Beautiful work. This model should be a great flier.

You may need to increase the cross-section of your rubber motor from 14 x 1/8. Gene Wallock's list for OTR models recommends 24 x 1/8 - 31 inches long for Miss World's Fair

What adhesive do you use to attach the Mylar film to the balsa wood frames?

[PantherM100]

Hi:
The adhesive that I will be using for attaching the Mylar
To the Balsawood frames is called Stix It it’s manufactured
By Sig Model Co.  As I remember, Sig Stix it is pretty thick
Right from the can, so I’ll be thinning it down.  I have to talk
To Sig on which thinner to use.  I really don’t want any unwanted reaction between the Sig Stix it and the Randolph’s Nontaughtening Nitrate dope.  I will be applying the printed
Esaki tissue with Randolph’s Nontaughtening dope thinned to about
50% Dope and 50% thinner. And then probably 2 coats of dope to get rid of any blushing left over
From applying the Esaki tissue in its “wet” state, not dripping wet just beyond damp.  It helps the
Tissue lay down very smoothly over the Mylar.

[AlanPetersen]

Beautiful Herb, I've always wanted to build a Miss World's Fair. Is it flying yet?