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Author Topic: Sweepette 36D -Build-  (Read 21379 times)
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Kit
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« Reply #125 on: October 27, 2010, 09:15:38 AM »

BG,

Gotta admire a man who flies when it's 0 degrees (even though you are talking that funny Celsius stuff). Biggest problems we encounter down here in swampland is warping tails due to heavy dew and fire ants.

Keep it up!

Kit
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sweepettelee
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« Reply #126 on: October 27, 2010, 01:49:15 PM »

Well Bernie, I also admire your getting to it in the freeze, but could not see anything of your launch...was there more than one? Never mind, as Kit stated: just keep at it!  

Remember the 'voice' in Field of Dreams? I paraphrase that here:
If you throw it, good climbs will come!

Leeper
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JonSayre
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« Reply #127 on: October 28, 2010, 12:43:35 AM »

Bernie,

The last video was perfect! Your launch looks excellent, I think what is more important than everyone trying to do the exact same thing is that everyone does what works best for them. Everyone's body mechanics are different.

You and I both happen to be throwing with the PROPER arm (read the left arm!;D) so I would say the only thing that you might modify is how tight you wind your body's spring. If you watch very closely @ the video starting @ exactly 12-13 seconds if you can, try to slightly widen your stance and bend your left knee just a little more. Then between 13 and 15 seconds focus on really digging the left foot into the ground and pushing off with it just before release. With a stationary throw your left LEG and then TORSO will be providing all the snap during launch. The deeper you can comfortably wind the spring and dig that foot into the ground and push the more velocity you will get.

You still have shorts and a T-shirt on it can't be that cold! But what would I know? I wish I was there flying with you it sure looks like a nice field and a unique sky to fly under!
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BG
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« Reply #128 on: October 28, 2010, 01:07:25 AM »

Thanks for the tips Jon... I was wearing long johns and had run 3 km to get to my flying spot so I was warm for a while but then got cold. At one point I could not feel my throwing hand and suffered an early release. That white stuff on the ground is snow.

I am gonna be driving down through the states next week and will try to get some more flying in during that time.

B
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BG
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« Reply #129 on: April 12, 2011, 03:30:57 PM »

Hi All,
The snow has finally melted so was out with Swe 36DII today and wrecked her (spiraled in and broke the fuse and stab assembly). Anyway the wing is ok so I will have to make a new fuse and stab and try again.

More when that is done.

B
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sweepettelee
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« Reply #130 on: April 12, 2011, 04:23:34 PM »

Bernie,
Sorry SW36DII is in dry dock.

How come? A complete Diagnostic report is de rigoure on this FF Forum! Meaning: WHEN & WHY DID IT SPIN IN?

Was it on launch (like way left... I forget if you are rt or left-handed), or gliding when it crashed?
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Leeper
BG
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« Reply #131 on: April 12, 2011, 06:20:19 PM »

Hi All,
Lee requests a postmortem. I avoided this prior due to Embarrassed. In short is was all due to my needing to fiddle with trim and flying in windy conditions.

I have been trying to get the bird to turn (the turn has never been great ... kinda floats off doing a large open circle.... one problem is that I have not had many opportunities to fly her in calm conditions so it is hard to say much with confidence). Anyway my most recent solution to the turn problem was to add a gurny flap to the rudder. I gave her a few tosses and the turn looked good (but in ground turbulence on a windy day). So gave her a full throw and got a spiral after a decent recovery... RC-DTed her out and carved some of the G-flap away. Tried again, and again a spiral (after a fair recovery), DTed her and carved more flap away. Threw again but this time had a poor launch and did not get to the DT button in time so she crashed.

Damage:
Pop-up boom broke off (the ply fuselage flanges gave way).
Fuselage split and broke away from the wing (clean break).
one side of stab snapped off and lost to wind.

Repair list:
Fix dings in wing
New fuselage with mods to house my RCDT (got any suggestions for how to do this??).
New tail feathers.

Other: I need to make a spare bird (so that I would have something tomorrow if it were calm).... any suggestions?

B
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sweepettelee
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« Reply #132 on: April 12, 2011, 06:54:37 PM »

OK Bernie, on board here with ideas to get you back in air ASAP.

1. Why would it spiral in? If wing has unwarped surfaces, I fear the CG is too far back, hence decalage too small.

2. Boom & body fix should be easy. Put small screw in from right side to give extra security to ply sideplates & clamp things together while adhesive cures.

3. Make RDT space in pod: First, router out length, depth and antennae exit slot needed to fit RDT assy [servo, LiPo battery & Airtek board]. Remove sufficient sideplate length from launch side of pod to make width room for RDT bits[servo is widest item, no doubt]. Checkfit the bits and make a plywood outer plate [some carpenters call that a 'butch plate'] to restore pod strength to normal. Make hatch ala Stan to cover RDT pocket.

4. Wing remounting on pod and new tail feathers: No need to say more. I leave those to your know-how.

5. Second glider to fly: Send for new Dynamo Hum II kit from Stan and make new SW36D with RDT Stan body.

Or...start a new from scratch build thread! Grin
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BG
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« Reply #133 on: April 12, 2011, 07:06:21 PM »

Thanks for tips Lee.
Not clear on the Butch plate... can't quite picture it.

As to 2nd bird: Would love to order from Stan but his RCDT fuselages are over $100. Beautiful I am sure but that is too much for my model budget so I guess I am stuck with another scratch build. Grin

b
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sweepettelee
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« Reply #134 on: April 12, 2011, 10:01:30 PM »

Let's see, how to explain 'butch plate'...

OK, to put a wider component into a thinner width space, you need to 'bulge out the side'. Wrap your mind around that idea for a minute.

So... how do we accomplish the redo of existing item without starting afresh? Simple. Cutaway the sidewall, make new sidewall [called "butch plate"], which overlaps the existing wall safely.

You need to verify your inside width needed, and then shim butch plate out accordingly with more plywood.

If it was me, I would make accurate top view sketch of the pod as is, draw in all components to size, then calculate how thick your shim should be... if you need any, that is.

Of course for your second one, you can create the RDT compartment with proper wood sizes to match the parts. The boom/sideplates fit depends on size of the rear parts, so shimming or tapering pod wood are likely req'd.

You are welcome. Grin
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BG
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« Reply #135 on: April 14, 2011, 07:56:15 PM »

Hi All,
So here is the progress on my new fuzz. Note that I have enlarged the fuse (taller) somewhat to ensure that there is enough wood to support the ply side cheeks. You can also see my RCDT installation which will be removable through the rectangular slot in the soon to be attached ply cheek. Also shown is how it will look when all glued together (tonight).

Comments welcomed.
B
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sweepettelee
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« Reply #136 on: April 14, 2011, 10:05:47 PM »

Well, very creative and nice job going on! [clapping here...]

I do like the deeper body... gets the stab lower, unless I miss my guess.

Query: What is the actuator? I can't quite tell from pix...
Pager motor? Some trick thingie [Tmat will like that... Grin] unknown to us earth men? Huh
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Tmat
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« Reply #137 on: April 14, 2011, 10:27:18 PM »

Earth men?

From the way you pick air Leeper I thought for sure you were extra terrestrial! Grin Shocked Wink

Tmat
-nice job Bernard!
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« Reply #138 on: April 14, 2011, 10:33:14 PM »

Earth men?
From the way you pick air Leeper I thought for sure you were extra terrestrial! Grin Shocked Wink

Ah-men to that, my brother!

Last Sunday I was timing for Leeper -- both a treat and an education -- and we would be sitting there in our chairs BSing, not paying attention to the air. Then he would say, "This feels right," stand up, launch his CLG barely 75 feet in the air, and nail a max. And he did that at least 3 times. Cheesy

On the drive home, I started doing the math, and realized I'd have to be 110 years old before I had that much experience... Sad
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BG
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« Reply #139 on: April 14, 2011, 10:58:46 PM »

Hi All,
Lee the actuator is one of the new super cheap micro servos (see: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=11737 ).

They are ~$5 each (or for a pair on ebay). I buy em and glue em into the airframe. Then I merely shift the RX and battery from model to model.

This fuzz does not place the stab lower...I just added a chin and a forehead. Might go for a lower stab on the next bird tho.

B
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BG
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« Reply #140 on: April 20, 2011, 04:55:34 PM »

So I have sanded the stab and fin (using the music wire jig method from Tmat). Will finish the sanding tonight and add 1st coat of Minwax.

B
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sweepettelee
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« Reply #141 on: April 20, 2011, 05:15:57 PM »

It always makes me cringe when folks put finish on before gluing the bits together.

Think about that sentence. Ask a woodworker: would you put finish on before assembly?

You know what his answer will be.
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BG
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« Reply #142 on: April 20, 2011, 05:34:14 PM »

No worries Lee... will mask areas to be glued.

B
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barry111129
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« Reply #143 on: April 22, 2011, 11:57:51 AM »

Hello Guys,

First post. I have read old posts almost daily since February that are packed with so much information that I have had no reason to ask a question until now...

I was interested to see that BG had his Spiral in crash at almost the exact same time as I had one with a similar set-up. I built a Sweepette 30 (Thanks Mr. Hines for the excellent plan) and like BG, I added a trim tab on the rudder because it was not turning the way I wanted. I have been flying almost exclusively in still air (it has been doing 65-70 second easily and consistently) in the late evenings because it has been so windy here in Dallas. Last week, on an almost ideal afternoon I went to the local field expecting to find lift. On the first throw it started rising like a rocket, and soon after came spiraling down. Fortunately, there was very little damage. Here are my questions.

Did the trim tabs on the rudder have something to do with our crashes? Is there such a thing as a thermal that is too strong?(I used to fly RC as a kid (FF is MUCH more fun) and never saw a plane go up like that) And how should I set the glider up differently for thermals as opposed to still air?

I have read old post about trimming, but to me they all seem to say add a little of this, try a little of that, and definitely use a lot of hoodoo voodoo!

Thanks for your help,
Barry
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sweepettelee
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« Reply #144 on: April 22, 2011, 03:46:18 PM »

Barry, glad you joined our little sourie of TLG posters here on HPA! And thanks for your kind words re SW30 plans, which Bruce Kimball drafted for me. He does fine work.

First, Mother Nature is more powerful than the washin tabs, so if your relatively teensy, little TLG birdie gets locked into one of her mini-twisters thingies, it will get taken where SHE wants to take it!!! Spiky thermics are like mini-twisters, and have more violent whirling & vertical velocities than 'normal' thermics do.

Just a few months ago, both Stan & I got our TLGs trashed in by same thermal, which turned into a visible trashmover soon after we had launched. I doubt any amount of added decalage or washin would have saved either of our flights from disaster.

That said, it IS likely the tab on fin had at least some culpability with your spin-in. In all my years flying and observing Stan & vise-versa, I do not think either of us ever used trim tab or wedge on fin for turn control.

We DO mount the fin against left side of tapered boom, which gives it a SLIGHT angle to aid counter climb forces, then bend fin TE a fine amount to suit climb, recovery and glide needs. Your tab may be too thick, causing it to have too much power at speed. You might try moving CG forward and going with more decalage as a test, to see if that helps. If the climb gets too loopy, then you were probably close on trim before or now that is.

Keep with the FUN events, OK?
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BG
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« Reply #145 on: April 22, 2011, 06:33:23 PM »

Lee et al..... the tip of my swe36 is 16.9 deg. above the root. Is this optimal or should I cut and reset to 19 deg while I have the wing separated?

B
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Tmat
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« Reply #146 on: April 22, 2011, 07:24:46 PM »

What does Leeper's plan say? I'd put it to the plan to start with.

Tony
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sweepettelee
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« Reply #147 on: April 22, 2011, 08:11:54 PM »

Excuse me, I have been away to see Mr Airtek for some electrickery RDT bits and repairs.

Yes, Bernie, check the plan and do what it says. I am not clear from your words what you mean.

Here are my D'dral values from log data on both of my SW36Ds, which matches the plan:
Mains=5.5deg or .91" above table per side.
Tips= 23deg or 3.38" with main flat on table.

I cannot see where you could get either of the values you quoted, if you followed the plan. Huh
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BG
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« Reply #148 on: April 22, 2011, 08:32:43 PM »

Hmmm ok... what I mean is that if you project a straight line from the root (lower surface) to the tip it is angled ~17 deg. up from horizontal. When I do this using your plan I get 16.5 deg. So I am a little above what you have on the plan. Since my wing agrees with the plan I guess I am ok.

B
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« Reply #149 on: April 22, 2011, 08:50:49 PM »

Check your Math Bernard. ;-)

Attached is the dihedral on the plan. The tip dihedral is 28 degrees above the horizontal. And I believe that Leeper intended 28.5 degrees above horizontal (I measured 22.6 degrees from the actual CAD drawing).

So I'm not sure where you get 16.5 degrees from?

Tony
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