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Author Topic: Sweepette 36D -Build-  (Read 21510 times)
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BG
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« Reply #50 on: January 21, 2010, 03:04:12 PM »

HI All,

Yeah sorry... I should have said "poly jnt cut line" .... I had no plans for sanding in the UC at the root. Was planning a horizontal bevel as you suggest.

B
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« Reply #51 on: January 21, 2010, 03:57:23 PM »

Lee says (with minor edits for clarification by me):
The rear center joint is just kissed when sanding the horizontal bevel for the wing-fuselage joint.
The intent is to lower LE slightly.
Plus, It will help the CA adhere the joint too.
 
I put some pinholes in each side of wing cuts before gluing d'dral joints.
Do same for body & wing at interface before attachment.
 
FYI, after all surfaces joined to body, I run a bead of medium CA along interface then blow some microballoons on and quickly blow off excess.
This forms very strong and usually smooth fillets.
Do same for fin & stab.
 
Leeper
 
I reply: Thanks for the sanding tip, and yes pinholes and microballons were in the plan.
Lastly... check out the planned color scheme...the orange on the lower surfaces will be fluorescent orange.

Bernard
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« Reply #52 on: January 21, 2010, 05:10:26 PM »

Bernard,

I think that you did an excellent job with your airfoils! Well done. Your model should fly very well.

Leeper's SW36D is one of the best flying TLG's and if you ask me (for what it's worth) the best gliding model out there. She really floats and just looks "happy" in the air. Grin

Good luck!
Tony
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sweepettelee
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« Reply #53 on: January 21, 2010, 07:34:35 PM »

Thanks Tony, for the kudos. Embarrassed

Bernie, that is a HOT color scheme! Shocked Kiss

I just wish I had the opportunity to see it fly!

I do feel an attachment to it, strangely enuf...don't quite know why... Wink

Very nice job you are doing. ;Cool

Leeper
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« Reply #54 on: January 21, 2010, 09:56:12 PM »

Lastly... check out the planned color scheme...the orange on the lower surfaces will be fluorescent orange.
Bernard

Bernard, I like the color scheme. May I suggest fluorescent orange on the top surface also? I have found that having the bright flo orange on the top of the tips as well as the bottom really helps to find the plane in the grass in Canada.

Tony
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« Reply #55 on: January 22, 2010, 12:41:32 PM »

Hi All,

Here are a series of shots of the wing assembly:

1. ready for joint bevels with sanding angle jigs at the ready.
2. Sanding in the joint bevel (for dihedral).
3. Prepped joint surface... ready for glue. I do this on both joint surfaces
4. Joint with glue... most of this is soaked up by the perforations I made in the joint.
5. The joint... nice and tight
6. Completed wing with flat beveled at the center.... as she sits there is 1/2 mm height difference from left to right.... the bevel was eyeballed (I am always amazed at how the human hand and eye can get things so close to square without jigs etc.).

Next dihedral braces and then glassing.

Bernard
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sweepettelee
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« Reply #56 on: January 22, 2010, 01:10:28 PM »

More fine work from BG! It will fly like a dream, I wager.

Re shot 6 and your comment: Amazement shared by me for many years as well. Shocked

Hands & eyes are super-coordinated tools, yes? Grin

Two queries: 1. what glue did you use as shown in shot 4? 2. how much did wing weigh RTM?

Still tuned in to this channel...

Leeper
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« Reply #57 on: January 22, 2010, 02:18:29 PM »

Hi All,

Lee, the glue is thick CA. I like this because it has a second to infiltrate my perforations before setting up. Thin CA might set too fast. The wing feels very strong.

The weight is 38.5 grams. I guess I will be up over 40 after braces, glass, and final finish are applied Embarrassed.

B
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sweepettelee
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« Reply #58 on: January 22, 2010, 03:51:08 PM »

Bernie,

That is right at normal RTM wing weight. The final additions you mentioned are likely to be virtually same for any TLG. And my bet is you will find weight needs to be added to glide-side tip for turn adjustment.

Again, SOP for TLGs, eh?

Carry on...
Leeper
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« Reply #59 on: January 22, 2010, 04:54:22 PM »

Thanks for that info Lee... I was quite bummed out for a mo there.

So do you have an idea as to your wing weight after glassing and braces plus finish or is this all applied after mounting to the fuzz?

Also, how much weight do you typically end up adding to the inside tip?

B
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« Reply #60 on: January 22, 2010, 06:02:28 PM »

Bernie,

Go back to my first page reply: post #3 in this topic. Much of my notes info is there to answer you.

My RTM weight values are before glassing or any finish, but after cutting slots & adding the carbon gussets to throw-side d'dral joint. So your's is quite close to mine. Makes sense. Wood was near same density, so volume is nearly equal.

Start with enuf weight so the inside tip is slightly lower when balanced on fingers upside down. Finer setting will be made as trimming progresses & you get to know the bird better. I & some of the others even find they need OUTER tip to be the heavier...not always, tho.

I also router [after glassing] a pocket on wing center top for recessing the hook for popup rubberband. Pic attached. Scale shows it at 2" from TE. I used thin CA & some Mu balloons to finish it off after I took pic.

Leeper
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« Reply #61 on: January 22, 2010, 06:05:01 PM »

Here is another pic showing after CA and Mu balls added to secure hook.

Leeper
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« Reply #62 on: January 22, 2010, 06:30:19 PM »

Thanks Lee... I assumed that you RTM was for a fully finished wing etc. Now things make more sense. I am right on target as you note. Also the pic of you center joint is helpful... I can see what the glass job should look like etc.

More progress as soon as I have time....got a lot of work to do this weekend.
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« Reply #63 on: January 26, 2010, 06:38:50 PM »

Hi All, here is the next installment.

1. Photo of the glassed wing tip.... I used the method described by Leeper above (duco and acetone) and it seemed to work very well.
2. Poly joint with carbon brace (I have some photos of the brace installation procedure etc. forgot to download em.... tomorrow!)
3. Center joint glass job.
4. Whole wing ready for paint weight 42.5 grams
5. Wing with black under surface... black paint added 1 gram. I expect the rest of the finish to add less than this.

Weights at this point:
Fuselage pod - 10g
Wing - 43.5g
Stab - 1.8g with final finish including black paint.
Fin - .5g

I am assuming that my boom will weigh in at ~10g and I will need 20g of nose weight. This puts me at ~ 80g for AUW which is on target more or less.

Bernard
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« Reply #64 on: January 26, 2010, 07:42:27 PM »

Sure looks the part, Bernie!

Curious as to what brand of black paint you used? If it's Design Masters, you seem to have a very opaque coverage, which might be reason it added one gram. I generally don't try for that much blackness, just spraying on a bit more that a fully misted color-coat. If it is Design Masters or an equiv spray paint with acetone or other high-volatility thinner as carrier, it will keep getting lighter in days to come. But you probably knew that... Undecided

We have found a gusset on glide-side joint is not needed, but does not hurt anything, of course. The launch-side joint seems to take most of the strain. That is why I use two gussets there on my 36" TLGs.

You are almost ready for liftoff!

Leeper
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« Reply #65 on: January 26, 2010, 08:49:23 PM »

Hi all,
Lee it is design master and yes it is opaque. It might not be exactly one gram as the scale I used is not too precise. Could be .5 grams (?). Also that was soon after spraying so some propellent has evaporated since and the weight of the finish will drop. Does not matter much anyway eh?

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« Reply #66 on: January 26, 2010, 09:01:04 PM »

Lee,

Is the recess for the rubber hook just cosmetic or does it serve some other purpose? And how did you put that little knob on the end of the hook? Slick.

Kit
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« Reply #67 on: January 26, 2010, 09:36:39 PM »

Bernie, in that case, I reckon it will be closer to .5gr after dryout. As you said, mox nix.

Kit, you need to buy a Stan Kit! [shameless plug for him... Grin] He supplies bent pins to suit various hook tasks as needed for the design. I think you will recall from past posts that most of my recent fleet of gliders have been at least started from his kits, even if I use my own planforms. So the function of recessed hooks is to keep the DT line from snagging at release, which can mean boom may not elevate enuf to bring glider out of thermal... bye bye! I had it happen, but got the glider back after a bit of a chasedown. Roll Eyes

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« Reply #68 on: January 26, 2010, 09:54:57 PM »

Looks good Bernard!

So, how did you mask off the black to produce the nice crisp rounded areas for the Orange?

Tony
-enquiring minds might want to copy it you know Wink
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« Reply #69 on: January 27, 2010, 12:00:34 AM »

I've also adopted the glass application method Lee described. It works like a charm. This after spending a lot of time previously with carrier sheets, 3M spray, etc. For my light gliders I rub some thinnned Duco into the wood, let it dry, put the piece of glass where I want it and then put a drop or two of acetone on top of the glass. It works like magic to stick the glass down without moving it or distorting it.
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« Reply #70 on: January 27, 2010, 02:21:21 AM »

I truly like that idea, Bill and will use it for sure!

With a coat or three of Minwax Helmsman Polyurethane brushed or swabbed over your Duco/acetoned glass application, it would be good to go for outdoor use! Smiley The urethane really assists adhesion of various composites: f-glass, kevlar and carbon, in my experience.

Thanks for the tip.

Leeper
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« Reply #71 on: January 27, 2010, 07:49:36 AM »

Tony,

I make the pattern with ordinary paper and in this case use glue stick to adhere it to the wing surface. Then spray lots of light coats. After you are done just wet the paper pattern and it comes right off. A wet rage allows you to clean any residual glue from the wing surface. That is it.

BTW.... devolatization of the paint during the day cut a few tenths of a gram off of the paint job.

Next the red and my decals.

B
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« Reply #72 on: January 27, 2010, 10:56:00 AM »

Clever, paper and glue stik. I can do that (I think Grin).

Did you cut the paper with scissors or a sharp knife blade?

Can't wait to see what she looks like altogether Bernard.

Tmat
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« Reply #73 on: January 27, 2010, 11:44:40 AM »

For cutting masks I usually use a sharp knife (I can cut a smoother line by hand than with scissors).

Also, the photo does not show it but I did get some little run-unders along the mask edge.... I will clean these off with a knife blade. I think this happens where the glue was too thin or where the propellant dissolved through the glue. Anyway I think the solution is more thin coats of pain (I was in a bit of a rush to get it done before running off to school).

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« Reply #74 on: January 27, 2010, 12:05:07 PM »

I've made some masks myself in the past using Post-it notes cut up into pieces suitable for the job at hand. Produces a nice mess free mask that is easy to remove and doesn't require any clean up. However, it would be tough to use for the fully curves outlines that you produced.

Designmaster Floral spray is prone to creep under masks I've found. The carrier solvent is very thin and it can run along the little grooves in wood grain under tape. You are right, the only solution that I've found is to use several fog coats at the mask line until the paint has sealed the joint. Then you can paint over it with a heavier coat.

Tony
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