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Author Topic: Sweepette 36D -Build-  (Read 21506 times)
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ram
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« Reply #75 on: January 27, 2010, 12:31:40 PM »

I've made some masks myself in the past using Post-it notes cut up into pieces suitable for the job at hand. Produces a nice mess free mask that is easy to remove and doesn't require any clean up. However, it would be tough to use for the fully curves outlines that you produced.

Designmaster Floral spray is prone to creep under masks I've found. The carrier solvent is very thin and it can run along the little grooves in wood grain under tape. You are right, the only solution that I've found is to use several fog coats at the mask line until the paint has sealed the joint. Then you can paint over it with a heavier coat.

Tony

The traditional way would be to spray the lighter color, then mask it off. Spray another coat of the lighter color over the mask edge. It will bleed along the grain and seal the edge, but the bleed under is the same lighter color. Then spray the darker color which covers over the lighter color overspray.

However, a better way, in cases where less paint is better and/or you want to spray the darker color first, spray the mask edge with a clear sealer. Designmaster makes a couple with different sheens. The clear then seals the mask edge reducing the bleed under.

For masking I've used newspaper sprayed with Spraymount adhesive on one side. The thin paper conforms well and the Spraymount adhesive is just tacky enough. Be light with the Spraymount and let it dry before using it.

Rey
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BG
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« Reply #76 on: January 27, 2010, 12:50:05 PM »

Rey... that sounds like a nice solution. Next time!

B
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sweepettelee
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« Reply #77 on: January 27, 2010, 01:06:37 PM »

WARNING!

If you make your birds too decorous, you will not want to hurl them into the gaseous miasma for fear of the inevitable scratches, holes, knarfs and dings that dear old Mother Nature has waiting for us all!!! Shocked

Leeper says. Tongue
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BG
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« Reply #78 on: January 28, 2010, 11:58:36 AM »

Grin Grin Grin Naaa Worries mate! This is nothing like the work I put into scale rubber models so I'll have no problem hurling this birdy.

Here are some pics of the masking process:

I designed the color scheme in Adobe Illustrator, then printed it out (sans color of course... ink is expensive) and then cut out the masks. I line the mask edges with glue stick making sure to get glue all along the edges. Then place the masks on the wing and stab and rub to ensure cohesion. Next step it to take my time and dust on several coats of DM red.

More tonight.

B
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sweepettelee
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« Reply #79 on: January 28, 2010, 02:53:02 PM »

I was only kidding Bernie. I know now for sure you are a GAMER!

BONSAI!

You also have a multitude of good skills. Smiley

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« Reply #80 on: January 28, 2010, 03:15:19 PM »

"Bonsai" is a dwarfed tree and art in it's own right. Banzai!!!
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sweepettelee
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« Reply #81 on: January 28, 2010, 03:20:11 PM »

THX for the defining moment, RR. Wink

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BG
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« Reply #82 on: January 29, 2010, 12:18:58 AM »

Hi All,

Getting there now.

1st photo sprayed with masks in place.
2. masks come off... close up of edge... not perfect even though I tried to be careful.... no matter though I will be adding a black line to define the red-white contrast.
3. My two older kids with the demasked wing.
4. The wing and stab with decals in place.

Note for the decals I print my own on micromark decal paper using a laser printer (be careful to print only after the printer is cool... hot printing equals disaster). The decals are sprayed with a heavy coat of artist's fixative before use. Before decal application I apply a coat of solvaset to the surface so that the decal softens and sets into the woodgrain. Next I will put on a final coat of minwax and start the boom assembly. I may have to do some sanding to lighten the boom some before it is ready. BTW leeper...how much do your booms weigh in their raw form?

Last: I noticed the leeper mentioned lengthening the TMA to compensate for a less dihedral relative to Jugs I..... what is the theory behind this move? I ask because I think my tips are about 2 mm lower than the plan shows.

B
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Tmat
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« Reply #83 on: January 29, 2010, 12:28:54 AM »

That looks great Bernard! And really cute kids too!

Tony
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sweepettelee
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« Reply #84 on: January 29, 2010, 01:15:41 AM »

Yeah Tony, Bernie has his own set of fetchermites like your nephew & niece! [or not...] Dittos to Tony's kudos on the appearance, too!

Bernie, I will have to make a guess at the raw boom weight, as I buy Stan Kits remember? They come with generic bodies that have boom attached and hinged to pod. Ready to roll after sizing and shaping, you see. I have a slightly bigger carbon boom that weigh 5.5g from another source. So my best guess is Stan's weigh 4.5-5g @ full 24" length, tapering from .26>.188, which he sands some.

Not sure where you got the idea about boom vs d'dral changes from SW36D-1 to -2. As close as I can tell, both of them have same d'dral of 3.37/tip [23deg] and .91/main [5.5deg]. I did lengthen -2 TMA to see if recovery and glide might be better. My analysis is: yes to the recovery, and it likely helps the glide as well as longitudinal stability. [thanks to Prof Mark D for that tip! Smiley] Oh and the CG went rearward to 2.37"[60mm], which has opened up the climb spiral, getting higher than my shorter ones. A win-win situation so far. Keeping fingers crossed!

Finally, if your tip d'dral is down by that much, you might ultimately want to razor-saw cut near tip joint & crank it up some. Bob White told us long ago, " Dihedral is like money in the bank. You can seldom have too much"!

Ciao,
Leeper
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Tmat
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« Reply #85 on: January 29, 2010, 08:57:10 AM »

Just my 2 cents (which might be overstating it) 2 mm less dihedral is likely not going to be noticeable Bernard. I'd try it as is for now. You can cut it apart later if need be. I do, however agree with Leeper that Dihedral is (in the words of Doug Galbraith) "Cheap"! Grin It's hard to have too much, and most people use too little.

How did you end up with less dihedral by the way? If your span is slightly shorter than the plan dimensions, you might still have the correct angles. Might want to check that.

Tony
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« Reply #86 on: January 30, 2010, 06:37:29 PM »

Hi All,

Close to the finish line now...

1. Shot of my stab sanding jig in action.
2. Stab assembly jig
3. Pivot block sanding .... I used a piece of sticky sandpaper wrapped around my tapered boom a few inches down from where the pivot block attaches (to compensate for the thickness of the sandpaper.
4. Pivot block ready to attach.
5. The model ready for DT setup...still needs flourescent paint on the fin and tips. Francis modeling.
6. Another shot this time with Hele modeling.

Total weight is 71 grams balanced at 50% (9 grams of clay).

After the fluorescent paint, DT spring, sandpaper patches and wing counterweight etc. she will be 73 or 74 grams AUW.

B
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sweepettelee
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« Reply #87 on: January 30, 2010, 07:00:17 PM »

Very drool worthy, Bernie! Cheesy

Just wondering where you got rid of the weight? Huh That is so light [even @ 75-80gms] you may want to add ballast for penetration & airfoil efficiency!

Do you see a trim session window any time soon?

Congratulations on this fine build job.

Ciao,
Leeper
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Tmat
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« Reply #88 on: January 30, 2010, 11:55:21 PM »

Very, very nice indeed!

I think that even Leeper might want to paint one of his roundy tipped birds in such a manner after seeing this. Well, then he might not be tempted to hurl with impunity!

Tmat
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« Reply #89 on: January 31, 2010, 12:19:46 AM »

Thanks Guys, I am quite pleased with how she looks... very "classic" I guess.

Lee I guess the low weight is due to the boom and using lighter wood for the fuselage core (?). The wrapped CF boom was 4.8 g after cutting to length. The fuselage assembly is 15g. I guess this works out to less nose weight which means she comes in light.

I still have another coat of minwax to add too so she will gain a gram or two from that as well. ready to fly weight will be in the mid 70s or so.

B
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sweepettelee
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« Reply #90 on: January 31, 2010, 01:08:35 AM »

Bernie, I see now where the lighter final weight diff is.

You had guessed 20g for nose wt, but only needed 9g so far.

That also is quite near my Badge timer version's nose weight, FYI.

Doing fine job.

Leeper
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« Reply #91 on: February 02, 2010, 02:57:51 PM »

Hi All,

She is finally done...well 99% still have to rig the DT lines etc. I inserted the noseweight (10g) using the Tmat scale technique. cg at 50%

I airbrushed some fluorescent orange on the lower tips of the wing and stab... added .2g for AUW of 73.2 g. BTW... airbrushing is the way to go for sure guys. I did the airbrushing using badger frisket film for masking this was much better than tape or paper.

Last step... minwax coat number three over the whole bird. With that she tips the scales at 75 grams. When dry I am guessing she will drop down to ~74.5 grams.

So that is it.

Flight test time!! Grin Grin
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sweepettelee
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« Reply #92 on: February 02, 2010, 04:00:59 PM »

Not so fast Brother Bernie! Where are the sandpaper grips on wing tip? They may weigh .5-1gr depending, then you must put balancing weight on glideside tip to achieve desired turn. So I am thinking OAW ~ 77gr if CG is spot on. You do recall that SW36D-2 has 60mm CG, which is slightly aft of your 50% current setting. Thus, if form holds, you may need to remove some slight nose weight.

All I am saying is: yours is light & will no doubt fly like a dream!! Roll Eyes Grin Heck, you may even end up adding ballast to speed up the glide for some conditions. Cheesy Am anxious to hear of its trim sessions, & hey, if you had a tracker beacon, put it on that bad boy as insurance! Smiley

Did I say it is a beaut? There, I did! Tongue

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« Reply #93 on: February 02, 2010, 04:34:13 PM »

Grin Grin Grin Ha HA... yes of course you are right... a spot of sandpaper on the tip and 1.5 grams on the glide side will get me up to 77g. Might be able to ditch a gram on the nose to get to the 60 mm cg but will handle that later after first flights (I want to start with a safe cg).

How do you deal with tip weight? Do you make a cut out in the tip or do you simply adhere some lead tape to the bottom?

B
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« Reply #94 on: February 02, 2010, 05:17:30 PM »

Bernie,

After determining which side is heavier [usually grip side] I use clay at first to trim circle size. Then after weighing the clay I add lead to equal in this manner: Using lead sheet [I have some 1/32nd], punch out some pieces with a paperpunch. Then punch wing tip with same punch. If punch does not cut clean holes in balsa I am sure you can make a hole to fit lead pieces. It may take a 2 or 3 bits stack to get the desired weight, then a drop of CA. If I need more I use lead foil.[think wine bottle seal lead, which I save after enjoying contents!]

Golf club lead works, but the lack of partaking of some good wine is less enthralling. Undecided

Leeper
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« Reply #95 on: February 02, 2010, 05:24:53 PM »

BG,

Have you run the DT timer yet? I'm hoping it works as good as it looks!

Leeper,

Both of my gliders have needed weight opposite the throwing tip. I'm thinking I might just go ahead and glass the non-throwing tip to protect against rash, etc. Might as well have some of the weight accomplish something? What do you think? Maybe that's what people are doing already, just not saying?

Rey
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« Reply #96 on: February 02, 2010, 05:32:42 PM »

Looks very nice Bernard. I use lead tape for tip ballast that I obtained from Orville Olm (Gizmo Geezer gent).

What's frisket film?
Using the airbrush then, what paint did you use for Florescent color?

Tony
-the timer will run slow out in the cold you know right? Grin
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« Reply #97 on: February 02, 2010, 05:57:36 PM »

Rey,

Certainly not bad idea to glass the glideside ear. Not seen anyone do that, tho.
Funny, I looked at my TLG fleet, none have ever shown scuff or tumble rash damage on that tip.

FYI: surprisingly, most TLGs seem to need fairly equal tip weighting when trimmed. The stab skew & rudder are doing adequate turning job, IMO.

Oh, is the DT timer home-made with Silly-Putty inside?

ciao,
Leeper
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« Reply #98 on: February 02, 2010, 06:36:12 PM »

Ahhh... wine cap foil... excellent, yet another excuse to crack a bottle soon Grin Grin

DT:... sadly no I have not tried her yet (yes home made with silly putty see 1st posts)... will soon tho. I am trying to figure a way to ensure adequate leverage on the arm so that she does not lock up on the cold days.

Frisket film is a tacky clear plastic film that you can get from any decent art store at $2.00 per sheet Shocked. It does do a nice job with an airbrush but with DM spray you would probably still get bleeding. In the future I am going to do every via airbrush... lighter and no bleeding due to finer mist. Will also do black last rather than 1st Roll Eyes.

Paint: I used the stuff that the RC guys use for their lexan bodies straight out of the bottle (no thinning needed).

B
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« Reply #99 on: February 02, 2010, 08:20:29 PM »

Bernie,

Have you seen Stan's solution for keeping viscous timers moving as the spring force lessens close to release? [Dare I tell you?] Wink

Cut a short [.06-.09 long] piece of 1/16th alum tubing, slip down to bottom of lever and crimp securely. This acts as a cam, to speed up lever slightly as it comes into its last 60deg or so. Quite reliable, as long as you put the release loop ABOVE the tubing shoulder! Shocked

Caution: calibration of tension can be frustrating to some, I find. I start long & light, then gradually tie knots in the line where it enters the wing hole[recall the alum tubing you might see at right-center of wing?]til the tension increases to give the desired DT time. See attached pix of my Pathfinder CLG for a closeup view.

BTW, I use rattle cans of the fluorescent Lexan car body spray colors for almost all my airplanes. Good stuff and not very heavy.

Leeper
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